some 1 told me if i changed my compression of my 98 3.8L that i would gain hp but they also told me that it would require me to use 89 or higher octane. i only want to use 89 octane and as far as compression goes what is it that i'll be compressing. please give me some # for compression.
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My ride: <br /><a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/youngdeezy\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/youngdeezy</a><br />98 Firebird 3.8L A4<br />Mods:80 seires flow master muffler<br />dual exhaust 3\" pipes,whisper lid<br />k&N filter,3.42 gears and LSD, 180 thermostat, free ram air mod & 1/2\" raised air box + some apperance mods<br />1/4 mile 15.8 @ 85mph<p>I\'ll see you in the traffic...Tags: None
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I think we only run 9.5:1 compression, which is why our engines are so reliable and low maintenance. If you run higher compression, which you can do with different pistons, longer rods or having your heads milled, you need to run higher octane gas because 88 doesn't compress as well, it will detonate/ping a lot because of the heat and compression.99 3800 NBM Camaro - (Xcessive Xcelleration Racing Team)<br />Ram/Cold Air Induction (custom)<br />Modified 4l60e Valve Body<br />Z28 Catback<br />SS Hood <br />Modified 99 GM 3800II <br />JB Performance Engineering<br />jfbperformance@cox.net
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i run 11.3:1 (ls1) and run 93 octane. i get no knock with 29 degrees of timing. raising the compression doesnt increase the power a whole lot. ive read its only about 3% for every full point of compression. check this out: http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/u...=004018#000000\'01 TA with boltons, cam <b>11.28@119.72 (1.49)</b><br />\'97 Tahoe LT 4x4- stock
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being able to run w/ aluminum heads allows a full point compression increase while being able to use the same octane fuel you were using before since aluminum dissipates heat much better than iron. We have iron heads at 9.4:1. To achieve the same thermal efficiencyw/ aluminum heads, you'd have to bump compression to 11.4:1. This is the beauty of aluminum.2001 Arctic White Firebird<br />More mods than I\'m allowed to list!
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Arctc Wolf:
being able to run w/ aluminum heads allows a full point compression increase while being able to use the same octane fuel you were using before since aluminum dissipates heat much better than iron. We have iron heads at 9.4:1. To achieve the same thermal efficiencyw/ aluminum heads, you'd have to bump compression to 11.4:1. This is the beauty of aluminum.<hr></blockquote>
Not quite arctic. Under 6,000RPM and below 10:1 Iron heads are superior; above either of these conditions aluminum is. An aluminum head/block engine does require more compression to achieve the same VE, but its only like 0.5:1 more, not anything substantial like what you mentioned.
It is true we run 9.4:1 Compression. 10.5:1 is probably our maximum safe compression ratio on pump 91 (93 might allow a bit more...). If you change the compression much at all you will be required to run premium otherwise the knock sensors will be doing a lot of work retarding your timing.
Increasing your compression ratio from 9.4:1 to 10.5:1 on a bone stock 200hp producing 3800 will yield approx +25hp at the flywheel. Or +12.5% power. Its really beneficial if you're looking for all the power you can get n/a [img]smile.gif[/img] .
Personally I would rather lower the compression or leave it the same and go blown - its a much more efficient way of getting the power out of premium unleaded than simply raising the static compression.
[Again, I reiterate I am deriving these numbers with pscalc]
[ August 03, 2002: Message edited by: Dominic ]</p>2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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They might, I am unsure. I have seen holden aluminum blocks and heads - but they were aftermarket. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JAM:
If they are not alum, does anyone know where we can get alum blocks, and heads? Might be nice mod to shave off some weight too.<hr></blockquote>
Do some research on aluminum blocks/heads and you'll see why you're better off with the iron.
Your best bet however is a holden aluminum shortblock with alum heads - its not worth your time though.2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
Details: www.1lev6.com
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Has anyone with a 3.4 milled their cylinder heads? Our 3.4 run with a 9.0:1 CR I thinks that's just too low. I would like to know what's our piston to valve clearance so I won't hurt my engine by milling too much.\'94 Firebird \"El Pichon\" 3.4L A4<br />Mods: CAI,NO CAT,NO EGR,<br />NO PCV,TB BYPASS,SLP IAT module,<br />Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler 2.5\" Dual,low temp stat, fan swtich<br /><a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/lando_pr\" target=\"_blank\">35 years of Firebird</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by lando_pr:
Has anyone with a 3.4 milled their cylinder heads? Our 3.4 run with a 9.0:1 CR I thinks that's just too low. I would like to know what's our piston to valve clearance so I won't hurt my engine by milling too much.<hr></blockquote>
Don't do it. If you run the numbers, it's just not worth the cost and aggrivation of milling for very little extra horsepower. Plus you will need higher octane fuel all the time to prevent detonation. Try bolt-on parts first. They offer a better return on investment.\'94 Camaro 3.4<br />\"No, Starvin Marvin. That\'s my pot pie.\"
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