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UPDATE look inside Attn: john d magnus and others my car wont run then it does
UPDATE look inside Attn: john d magnus and others my car wont run then it does
Its kinda like my 74 360 charger motor, i have to pump the gas pedal for it to start and when it does it shuts off if i dont give it gas :( except the charger stays running after it starts. im getting autotao in like a week but it wont do me any good if the damn car wont stay running. It was like this for an hour, i went to show my buddy how it wont run and it fired right up and ran
[ July 24, 2003: Message edited by: SLOWBRAEATER ]
[ July 27, 2003: Message edited by: SLOWBRAEATER ]
[ July 29, 2003: Message edited by: SLOWBRAEATER ]</p>
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
If you have to open the throttle to start it, or to keep it running, then it's probably an air flow related thing...
Vacuum leak, bad calibration on the maf sensor (possibly due to the porting), bad calibration in the pcm programming, cam timing off. Those would be the main culprits.
If you can get a steady idle (or a steady rpm under a steady load), and then monitor with autotap, and see that the mass air flow is varying quite a bit, then it's the ported maf sensor.
If things are too far off, you won't be able to get a steady rpm though. If the rpms are going up and down, the maf readings will be too, so that won't tell you anything.
Be sure to rule out anything obvious like switched (or loose/broken) plug wires, loose vacuum hoses, etc.
Contaminated o2 sensors might give you trouble once the car warms up, but on a cold start they shouldn't matter.
if i got the iccu thing from zooomer it lets you adjust fuel and timing, would i be able to make the cam timing right by retarding or advancing? or isnt that the same kind of timing? thanks
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
Check air/fuel like said.. and vac leaks.. your cold start air/fuel might be VERY rich and thus causing it to not run too well.. don't forget your cam is big.
if you hold the throttle for a while so it can rev , will it stay running when it warms up?
Tuning for a cam and injectors isn't easy to do through the mail.
ALso, please edit your topics title to something more relevant to this post. Thanks.
- Keith
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
After i turn the key on you ca n hear the fuel pump, then when the pump stops and i shut the key off there is this clicking noise. me and a friend tracked it down and its the intake air control valve/sensor doing it, so i guess i need a new one. maybe this is why the car ran perfect for a few days then all of a sudden the idle was everywhere now do any of you think the cam or programming made this sensor go bad? i hope not because after the new sensor it will go bad to. what can i do about this if it is the cam or programming causing the sensor to go bad, is it even likely the reason why the sensor went out? thanks guys
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
It's unlikely the cam or programming had any affect on the IAT sensor. But before you swap it out, I would make sure that the click you heard isn't normal. If the IAT sensor is bad, you should be getting a code.
<b>Mike</b><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mcjoslyn\" target=\"_blank\">2001 Camaro</a><br />Light Pewter Metallic Convertible<br />AU0,A31,C60,DG7,F41,GU6,K34,L36,M30,T82,T96,UN0<p ><b>If it can\'t be expressed in figures, it is not science; it is opinion.</b>
It does say service engine soon but i figured that could be many things, the sensor is also very dark black, looks like carbon buildup and smells like alot of gas.
Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,
Idle air control valve you mean? I've gone through two(two nitrous backfires). First time it was coated in the black stuff, and would not idle at all, it would die if I took my foot off teh gas. I tried cleaning it with carb cleaner but it was no good. Second time the spring got bent badly and same thing happened. Trust me, do not get an aftermarket one from napa or anything, get ONLY an AC Delco, the quality of the part is MUCH better.
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