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Sounds like a throttle posistion sensor to me...but cover the basics first.
Follow my how-to above on the timing.
More info:
Before you crank the car, disconnect the number 1 wire boot from the #1 plug, and hookup that timing gun spring to the plug, then snap on the wire to the other end of the spring. Make sure its connected. Try as best you can not have it lie on the manifold, if it does, it won't take that long to set the timing.
Where is the number 1 cylinder? It is the first plug in the front of the engine on the DRIVER's side. FYI here is the pistons if you are facing the motor:
Pass Driver
*<===Distributor
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Start the car now and make sure the gun is out of the way obviously...obviously assuming you have done the above steps and losened the hold down bolt to the distributor as well.
Unplug that EMC advance wire and you'll hear and obvious change in engine sound it will almost die probably, however it WON'T miss. If its missing, check the connection of the timing gun to the plug/wire. Make sure you're in shade or your won't see the gun flash mark on the crank.
Point the gun at the crank pulley and squeeze the trigger...You'll see the mark lining up with the marks on that little metal piece. It's probably dirty or rusted, you MIGHT have to clean it. Lean over the engine carefully and turn the distributor COUNTERCLOCKWISE to advance it till its moved up to *4 ABOVE zero, this is ADVANCING the timing. I would not go above 4* advanced mechanically because you want the car to start easily and run 87 octane without knocking.
Go ahead and shut the car off and plug back in the ECM advance wire. Tighten down the hold down bolt just a tad with your dizzy wrench and start the car. Does it start easily? good. Take it for a drive and see how it runs...if it runs good and you don't hear it knocking obvious sound get back home and tighten the bolt down and you should be good to go.
If it knocks or is hard to start it will act like the battery is dying, slow hard cranks, losen the hold down bolt and turn the dizzy cap CLOCKWISE to RETARD the timing. Set it back to 2* and see how it runs...it may make you leave it alone at Top dead center, which is 0*...this is what GM called for in the L03 motors regardless.
Remember to just tighten down the distributor again and see how it runs...oh yeah, obviously remove the timing gun during test drives.
Follow my how-to above on the timing.
More info:
Before you crank the car, disconnect the number 1 wire boot from the #1 plug, and hookup that timing gun spring to the plug, then snap on the wire to the other end of the spring. Make sure its connected. Try as best you can not have it lie on the manifold, if it does, it won't take that long to set the timing.
Where is the number 1 cylinder? It is the first plug in the front of the engine on the DRIVER's side. FYI here is the pistons if you are facing the motor:
Pass Driver
*<===Distributor
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Start the car now and make sure the gun is out of the way obviously...obviously assuming you have done the above steps and losened the hold down bolt to the distributor as well.
Unplug that EMC advance wire and you'll hear and obvious change in engine sound it will almost die probably, however it WON'T miss. If its missing, check the connection of the timing gun to the plug/wire. Make sure you're in shade or your won't see the gun flash mark on the crank.
Point the gun at the crank pulley and squeeze the trigger...You'll see the mark lining up with the marks on that little metal piece. It's probably dirty or rusted, you MIGHT have to clean it. Lean over the engine carefully and turn the distributor COUNTERCLOCKWISE to advance it till its moved up to *4 ABOVE zero, this is ADVANCING the timing. I would not go above 4* advanced mechanically because you want the car to start easily and run 87 octane without knocking.
Go ahead and shut the car off and plug back in the ECM advance wire. Tighten down the hold down bolt just a tad with your dizzy wrench and start the car. Does it start easily? good. Take it for a drive and see how it runs...if it runs good and you don't hear it knocking obvious sound get back home and tighten the bolt down and you should be good to go.
If it knocks or is hard to start it will act like the battery is dying, slow hard cranks, losen the hold down bolt and turn the dizzy cap CLOCKWISE to RETARD the timing. Set it back to 2* and see how it runs...it may make you leave it alone at Top dead center, which is 0*...this is what GM called for in the L03 motors regardless.
Remember to just tighten down the distributor again and see how it runs...oh yeah, obviously remove the timing gun during test drives.
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