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  • MAFT+ Settings

    I am borrowing my friend's maf translator and was curious as to what settings people are getting the most success out of. What is the best way to set it up properly for my application and once I disconnect the translator will all the settings go back to stock?
    Thanks
    2000 Z28 M-6<br />Loudmouth, TSP Lid, MAF Ends<br />330 rwhp

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>I am borrowing my friend's maf translator and was curious as to what settings people are getting the most success out of.<hr></blockquote>
    For na I got the best o2 readings around 2% lean. However, you REALLY need a way to monitor what is going on with your engine before you start tweaking the settings. (you can hurt the engine)

    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>What is the best way to set it up properly for my application... <hr></blockquote>
    You need something to monitor the air/fuel ratio. A wide-band o2 sensor would be ideal. An exhaust gas analyzer could work, but is probably overkill. The easiest way is to use the readings coming from your existing o2 sensors. The easiest way to do that is to hook up autotap or one of the other monitors, to read the o2's via the diagnostic port under the dash. That way you can get an instant reading, and also log the readings for more detailed analysis later. (to see what was happening at different rpms in each gear)

    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>...and once I disconnect the translator will all the settings go back to stock?<hr></blockquote>
    Yep. The maft is just faking out the pcm, by tweaking the signal that is being sent to the pcm.


    EDIT -- Oh, and if it is a MAFT+, then there is a timing adjustment you can make too. I don't have the PLUS, so I have tested only maf adjustments. I have heard that our cars take another 3-4 degrees of advance in stride with no problem. And if you have an autotap, you can monitor how much timing the pcm is taking away, via knock retard, so you can tell if you are going too far that way.

    [ November 04, 2002: Message edited by: John_D. ]</p>
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      you really need to autotap to be sure.. THere is no basic settings that apply to all V6's..

      If you go to the track and run NA I recomend this.
      Run with all settings at zero.
      Lean out the WOT by -2%
      If you pick up MPH...
      lean out the wot by -4%
      If you pick up MPH
      Lean otu the wot by -6%

      If you make a change and lose MPH go back to the previous change..

      Then do timing..
      Add 2 to WOT. do you gain MPH.. do the same for this.

      I would really want to autotap though to see where the o2's are. I wouldnt go lower than .830 NA.

      if you have a power adder than you MUST use a scanner.. Unless you like lots of risk.
      Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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