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  • Crane 2030 cam on ebay

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MESE:IT
    1995 Camaro 3.4 M5 - Project<br />1998 Camaro 3.8 A4 - Daily<br />Aim:V6OnSpeed<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/576233/1\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/576233/1</a>

  • #2
    why do all you guys get excited about this cam???? i know of 2 3.4L 4th gen f bodies that have this cam , on guy couldnt get it running right after he took it to a shop countless times and ended up selling the car because he couldnt get it to run, then teal put it in his car and he is having hella trouble with the car running right
    -Aaron, AKA ATL2001<br />93 3.4L <br /><a href=\"http://www.ilfba.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.ilfba.com</a>

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    • #3
      I personally havent heard good things about it. I know everyone has probably heard this, but custom grind is the way to go. ;)
      Jordan<br />15.09@90.7<br /><a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=21\" target=\"_blank\"><b>1995 Camaro 3.4 M5</b></a>

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      • #4
        Crane 2-272-H d@mn it.
        It is a waste of time to replace the stock cam with that thing.
        I know why people have trouble with there cars after they install that cam.
        and I'm not telling.
        \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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        • #5
          Ok you forced it out of me.
          You have to advance your ignition timing a few degrees about 2 for the 2030 and 4 or so for the 2-272-H.
          It took 100 MIT rocket scientists with a computer the size of a gym 4 years to figure this out you would think.
          I think it is a product of some kind of "push button makey better" mind set and the fade of old school muscel tuning useing know how and your 5 senses.
          The biggest mistake I see the ricers do after installing any kind of mod is they don't do any kind of tune up.
          They weight untill there cars run like crap then get it worked on by then it is to late most times.
          Remember only one thing:
          Any time you do any kind of mod tune up your engine.
          Ex.
          Cam(s) change
          New exhaust over stock.
          new intake
          porting
          turbo (omg! realy)
          change injectors
          \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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          • #6
            so get the adjustable timing gear and advance it *2..
            New:04 GMC Sierra 1500 RCLB 4x4 5.3 GU80 3.73\'s.<br />Truck pics<br />Mods<br />Go fast: Panel K&N filter and soon SS truck catback.<br />Appearance: Stull Billet grill,Weston Chrome step tubes,Rhino Chrome hitch step,ARE painted fiberglass cover,Silver star lighting.

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            • #7
              I said ignition timing.
              You have to add some spark advance when you change to a bigger cam.
              Playing with the cam timeing is totaly different.
              Retard you cam timing 2 degrees and you will just peak with more power higher up on the rpm scale with the loss of some low end power.
              This what I have to do to my crane 2-272-H cam to make make it work better with boost.
              Also with that you have to start retarding the timing when you start boosting. Because the mixture will burn faster and you don't want that stuff lighting off at 36 BTDC when your running 10psi over 4000rpm's.
              \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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              • #8
                Originally posted by oil pan 4:
                I said ignition timing.
                You have to add some spark advance when you change to a bigger cam.
                Playing with the cam timeing is totaly different.
                Retard you cam timing 2 degrees and you will just peak with more power higher up on the rpm scale with the loss of some low end power.
                This what I have to do to my crane 2-272-H cam to make make it work better with boost.
                Also with that you have to start retarding the timing when you start boosting. Because the mixture will burn faster and you don't want that stuff lighting off at 36 BTDC when your running 10psi over 4000rpm's.
                so whats the best way i can get 2* more of timing,.
                New:04 GMC Sierra 1500 RCLB 4x4 5.3 GU80 3.73\'s.<br />Truck pics<br />Mods<br />Go fast: Panel K&N filter and soon SS truck catback.<br />Appearance: Stull Billet grill,Weston Chrome step tubes,Rhino Chrome hitch step,ARE painted fiberglass cover,Silver star lighting.

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                • #9
                  Get a timing light. loosen the distributor bolt so you can turn it some.
                  find a manual that tells you how to set initial timing. Involves shorting A and B terminalas, turning the car on and off several times to put it in diagnstic mode.
                  After your done tighten down the bolt.
                  I left my chiltons manual in Maine that is all I can remember.
                  It is easy.
                  If you want to change the cam timing you can only change it by 4 degrees at a time. You will need to get a roller chain if you want to change it by any thing less.
                  \'85 Z28, T-tops new LG4 and TH700<br />\'85 3.4L 5-speed<br />mods: <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/oil_pan_4</a> the nitrous exhaust O2 safety, pg 3. <br />Areo space materal engineer wantabe

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