CAM: This could be interesting

[awesomeame]

my car only has approx 19,000 miles on it, so i didn't feel the need to rebuild say the oil pump...i didn't have to do too much cleaning either...everything came apart pretty easily.

total working time i would say it took me about 21 hours of solid work..from driving condition to driving condition.

that was my first time ever into a piston engine

--matt

[malice10985]

One last question on my never ending cam swap. What kind of break in procedure did you use? Comp sent me a long list, but it only applies to flat tappet cams, not roller cams.

Piston engines make me mad. :mad:

This afternoon my systems class gets to play around with a decommisioned Allison 250 and a P&W J-79. Turbines are cool.

[awesomeame]

hey malice, what're you going to school for? A&P? this was my first time into a piston engine as well, since i too always deal with turbines [img]smile.gif[/img]

i just let my engine idle for about 30mins after i got all the coolant in, and then took it for several short drives near my house, taking it pretty easy. i'd say i put 10miles on it before i brought it up to 4 grand, then another 10 before i took it up to 6 grand. i also checked the oil level throughout that period. then i did an oil change to get some of the cam lube outta there [img]smile.gif[/img]

--matt

[malice10985]

I am in flight school. I just got a CFI liscence. All of my friends are A&P students, so I hang out in the hangar alot and play around with busted old aircraft engines. My favorite is the J-79. It is a hoss.

Cam swap final notes:

I called comp and asked them about the break in. THey said to hold it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. THat is exactly what I did. after that, I let it idle for another 10.

THen I shut it off and changed the oil. It wasn't supposed to be broken in with synthetic oil, so I used valvoline conventional 20W50. I should have used 10W30, but I didn't have any laying around. When I changed the oil, I put in my trusty mobil 1 10W30.

I put a nut behind the spring in the oil pressure regulator. It now idles at 60psi like it did before, but the oil press raised to about 80 when it is at operating rpm. My buddy says that extra oil pressure will be good for it.

I was contemplating doing head work while the engine was apart, but after looking into the intake ports, I decided against it. Our heads are really nice for being factory junk. The valve guide hardly sticks into the port at all.

I have driven 45 miles thus far and haven't had so much as 1 drop from any sort of leak. Thanks to the A&P that helped me out.

The valve springs really chatter from the extra lift. THey are stock. I am afraid to rev it up because I might break one. I think those are going in next.

Will someone verify for me that LS1 rockers will NOT fit on the L36? My buddy wants me to put on SLP 1.85 rockers.

The car pulls really hard. I can't wait to get it to a track.Thanks to all who helped me out with advice.

[ November 27, 2003: Message edited by: malice10985 ]</p>

[awesomeame]

.496" lift with 1.6 ratio? what is your lift going to be with 1.85 ratio? i don't think 1.85 is going to work without head work, but i dunno the calculation for that...be sure to find that out before you do anything.

--matt

[malice10985]

I am reviving my dead thread about my recent cam swap.

I have driven the car about 1000 miles with the cam, and I just got my first code. P0300, random misfires.

I am assuming this is standard for pretty much all aftermarket cams. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

To correct it, I thought I would just unplug the computer and let it reset itself. Then the code would come back in another 1000 miles, and I could reset it again. Is this unwise? SHould I do something more drastic to correct the problem?

[ December 14, 2003: Message edited by: malice10985 ]</p>

[98Camaro3.8]

From reading about other cam swaps, it seems it's a pretty common problem. False misfires caused by the over-sensitive knock sensors....it's not actually misfiring, though. I think some people have de-sensitized their knock sensors, try looking in to how they did that.

[malice10985]

Hmmm....

I didn't know the knock sensor monitored misfires.

ZZP has a good article on knock sensor theory, I will go read that again.

Seppo also did some work on this, I will search for it.

[98Camaro3.8]

The knock sensors are seeing the lope from the cam as a knock, so it thinks the engine is misfiring and shoots the SES at you.

[awesomeame]

if you have a way to scan your car for codes, remove your SES LED from your gage cluster...then you won't have that annoying light. it's easy. i did it awhile ago..posted in general tech...do a search with my member ## & you'll find it.

--matt

[malice10985]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by awesomeame:
if you have a way to scan your car for codes, remove your SES LED from your gage cluster...then you won't have that annoying light. it's easy. i did it awhile ago..posted in general tech...do a search with my member ## & you'll find it.

--matt<hr></blockquote>
I have atap. I can read codes.
Doesn't the computer go into a "safe mode" when the SES light is on?

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: malice10985 ]</p>

[98Camaro3.8]

Nope, all it does is set the SES light to let you know. The P0300 code doesn't pull any timing or anything. The manual says it does disable TCC operation, so I guess the TC won't lock up?

[ December 15, 2003: Message edited by: 98Camaro3.8 ]</p>

[awesomeame]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by 98Camaro3.8:
The manual says it does disable TCC operation, so I guess the TC won't lock up?<hr></blockquote>

tc= torque converter? i have an m5

--matt

[awesomeame]

found the thread..

http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=1&t=011525

look about 1/2 way down..

--matt

[98Camaro3.8]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by awesomeame:


tc= torque converter? i have an m5

--matt<hr></blockquote>

I know, but for those with A4s, I guess it won't lock up if they're getting that code.