CAM: This could be interesting

[malice10985]

I don't know about the lobe type. I will find out when I get the cam and the stat sheet.

Less power gain than I hoped heh?

Oh well, it is my only car, so I need the everyday streetablility anyway.

It is my firm opinion, however, that with this cam I will be able to sh!tcan every mustang GT and every unskilled LT1 driver I can find.

Am I right or am I right?

[Magnus]

eh, its a pretty mild cam. Hard to say how much you'll gain.

Really, a cam in a daily driver is iffy.. I remember when I did things to my car sometimes it would be down for a week.. If it was my only means of transportation I would have been screwed.

[malice10985]

I have a few Q's about the installation of my cam.

I have been studying Magnus's website to see just how to do this cam swap.

I am just changing out my cam. I am not changing the heads or anything else.

Can I reuse my stock roller lifters with 61,000 miles on them?

Can I do the swap without removing the intake manifold?

Are my rocker arms adjustable?

Can I reuse the timing gears/ chain?

Do I need new pushrods?

I am doing the swap next weekend, so I gotta know if I need any more parts. Right now I have just the cam and some new lifters.

If I don't need the lifters, I will send them back.

IF I need any other parts, I need to order them quick, so they get here friday.

Help a brotha out with some questions, fellas.

[cammed3800]

Lots of luck to you beating every gt and lt1

[IthacaV6]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by malice10985:
Can I reuse the timing gears/ chain?<hr></blockquote>


As far as the timing chain and sprockets (gears), you can reuse those as long as you didn't do any damage to either removing them (it take a lot to damage those).

They are designed for infinite use and you'd have to throw about 500 hp at them for a few years to even have to worry about the idea of either of them giving out.

That should save you a little cash in doing the cam. Hope that helps.

[SlowCamaro96]

Just wondering what you guys think about the cam available at SSX
220/224
.51/.51
Seperation 114
For a NA car with 3.42 gears, 2500 stall.

[Bird_Of_Prey]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by malice10985:
I have a few Q's about the installation of my cam.

I have been studying Magnus's website to see just how to do this cam swap.

I am just changing out my cam. I am not changing the heads or anything else.

Can I reuse my stock roller lifters with 61,000 miles on them? YES YOU CAN, DOUBLE CHECK THEM FOR COMPRESSION. LEAVE THEM SITTING IN OIL FOR AN HOUR OR SO, IF YOU CAN COMPRESS THEM BY HAND, THEY ARE JUNK.

Can I do the swap without removing the intake manifold? NO, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE MANIFOLD IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE LIFTERS.

Are my rocker arms adjustable? NO, 11 FT/LBS + 90 DEGREE ROTATION WHEN TORQUING DOWN.

Can I reuse the timing gears/ chain? GOING NEW IS CHEAP INSURANCE. OUR MOTORS ARE INTERFERANCE DESIGN, THUS IF THE CHAIN BREAKS, PISTONS MEET VALVES.

Do I need new pushrods? DEPENDS ON THE CAM BASE CIRCLE AND SUCH, GENRALLY NO.

I am doing the swap next weekend, so I gotta know if I need any more parts. Right now I have just the cam and some new lifters. GASKET SETS, HARMONIC BALANCER REMOVAL TOOL, I THINK THE CRANK BOLT WAS 1 3/4 INCH, HOPEFULLY AIR TOOLS, IT SUCKS USING HAND TOOLS. FRESH OIL, COOLANT, BANDAIDS AND SUCH.

If I don't need the lifters, I will send them back. CHECK YOUR STOCK ONES FIRST

IF I need any other parts, I need to order them quick, so they get here friday.

Help a brotha out with some questions, fellas.<hr></blockquote>

[malice10985]

I got it in the mail yesterday.

I started to install it today. What a PITA! I got the old one out and slid in the new one, but I won't put the rest of the engine back together untill tommorrow.

THanks to Magnus's excellent cam install instructions, as found on his website. They saved me lots of time and money.

Here are the specs as they appear on the yellow sheet that came with the cam:

Gross valve lift .517/.498 (I'm assuming thats with 1.6 rockers)
Duration @ .006 255/262
duration @ .050 201/205
IC 108
LSA 112

[Magnus]

malice, is anything missing on the site? Any steps I forgot? Anything I can do to make it more helpful for the next person that uses it?

[malice10985]

Magnus-

I am not trying to kiss your a$$ or anything, but I think your site is near perfect.

I thought I had to remove the AC compressor or the power steering pump. Your power steering pump was still on in the pictures, so I left mine on.

The little side notes about dinging the cam bearings or stripping the torx srews that hold in the cam plate were very helpful. I guarantee I would have stripped those screws had you not mentioned it.

Pictures were worth a thousand words. Your engine compartment was much cleaner than mine though. My wiring harness was snaking all over the place.

The only thing you didn't cover was air condidtioning. I am assuming thats because you removed yours. I evacuated my AC system so I could remove some cumbersome lines and the AC condenser. (I took out the radiator too.... I probably didn't have to.)

If I were you the only thing I would do is state that you can leave the AC compressor bolted on to the engine. I didn't see yours on in any pictures, so I figured it had to be removed. Luckily, I didn't remove mine and it ended up not being in the way.

Other than that, thanks for the step by step. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[awesomeame]

i used keith's install guide too & made up my own...a tad more specific, but i'm sure i'm missing something here anyways...

1. Moved the beer fridge from the basement into the garage
2. Cleaned up the garage a bit
3. Set out required tools/cleaning solvents (i hope i got 'em all)
4. Set out required information (manuals/write-ups etc)
5. Put a 2-4 in the fridge
6. Jacked entire car up
7. Removed front wheels
8. Removed serp belt
9. Disconnected battery
10. Removed alternator
11. Removed spark plug wires
12. Removed ICM & coils
13. Disconnected TONS of electrical connectors & vacuum lines
14. De-pressurized fuel rails via schrader valve
15. Removed MAP sensor (i think that's it)
16. Disconnected & removed fuel rails & injectors
17. Removed EGR
18. Removed front engine lift point
19. Removed upper intake assembly with TB
20. Removed lower intake
21. Removed driver's side valve cover
22. Removed rear engine lift point (PITA 2hours on this POS)
23. Removed passanger side valve cover.
24. Removed spark plugs
25. Removed rocker arms in firing order
26. Removed pushrods
27. Removed lifter guides
28. Removed lifters--set in oil
29. Disconnected rad hoses from water pump
30. Spilled coolant everywhere
31. Removed crank bolt
32. Removed harmonic balancer
33. Removed crankshaft position sensor cover
34. Removed crankshaft position sensor
35. Removed bolts holding front cover on
36. Spilled more coolant
37. Removed front cover
38. Aligned crank & cam timing marks
39. Removed cam sprocket bolt
40. Removed timing chain damper
41. Removed timing chain & sprocket
42. Removed that disk behind the cam timing sprocket
43. Removed cam thrust plate
44. Disconnected more wire stuff
45. Removed fan assembly
46. Removed cam
47. Cleaned up front cover gasket material
48. Transferred woodruff key from old cam to new cam
49. Cleaned up new cam with some MEK (covered with storage oil)
50. Put cam install lube on new cam
51. Installed new cam
52. Reinstalled cam thrust plate
53. Reinstalled that disk behind the cam timing sprocket
54. Reinstalled cam timing chain & sprocket (dots aligned)
55. Went to install damper...saw a crack in it...need new one
56. Went to install airhold fitting in #6 cyl, to keep valves up...don't fit
57. Got rope
58. Changed valve springs on #6 cyl with Ls1 springs, retainers, keepers.
59. Installed guide plate on passanger side
60. Installed rocker arms on #6 cyl
61. Checked to make sure Ls1 retainers work on L36 engine..they do
62. Removed rocker arm
63. Removed guide plate
64. Changed all springs/retainers/keepers on passanger side
65. Changed all springs/retainers/keepers on driver's side
66. Dropped nearly every keeper throughout the above process
67. Cleaned intake to head mating surface of gasket material
68. Cleaned lower intake mating surfaces of gasket material
69. Cleaned upped intake mating surfaces of gasket material
70. Cleaned valved covers of gasket material
71. Installed lifters
72. Installed lifter guides
73. Installed pushrods
74. Installed guide plates
74.1 Installed rocker arms on #6 cylinder
74.2 Checked retainer to valve seal clearance
74.3 It's fukin' close
74.4 Does clear tho, so it's all good
74.5 Removed rocker arms from #6 cylinder
75. Reinstalled rad fan assembly...correctly (not right from factory)
76. Installed #1 cylinder rocker arms
77. Realized i fuked it up
78. Removed #1 cylinder rocker arms
79. Discarded #1 cylinder rocker arm bolts
80. Installed remaining rocker arms/bolts on engine
81. Spilled oil everywhere in above process
82. I found more coolant to spill, too
83. Cleaned up intake to head mating surfaces again with MEK
84. Set gaskets in place to install lower intake
85. Squeezed ultra copper gasket maker at block/head/intake points
86. Set lower intake in place
87. Installed & torqued bolts into place
88. Cleaned passanger side valve cover mating surfaces with MEK
89. Installed new gasket
90. Turned valve cover upside down
91. Watched gasket fall onto the floor
92. Cleaned gasket off
93. Stuck gasket into valve cover, made it stick with ultra copper
94. Installed passanger side valve cover
94.5 Installed alternator bracket
95. Cleaned lower to upper intake mating surfaces with MEK
96. Replaced coolant orings at lower to upper intake mating surfaces
97. Installed new lower to upper intake gasket
98. Set upper intake in place
99. Installed & torqued bolts into place
100. Realized the crank bolt ZZP sent me isn't the right one
101. Ordered parts from GM--timing chain damper in stock
102. Installed timing chain damper
103. Double checked cam to crank timing marks
104. Torqued down cam sprocket bolt
105. Cleaned off gasket material from front cover
106. Wiped off gasket mating surfaces on front cover & block with MEK
107. Squeezed copper gasket maker at oil pan/front cover/block points
108. Installed front cover gasket
109. Installed front cover with much frustration
109.5. Make sure to line up oil pump teeth with crank teeth
109.6. Installed crankshaft position sensor
110. Torqued down front cover
111. Ensured #1 cyl still at TDC compression
112. Installed remaining rocker arms on #1 cylinder
113. Squeezed some ultra copper onto driver's side valve cover
114. Installed valve cover gasket on driver's side valve cover
115. Installed driver's side valve cover
116. Removed orings from fuel injectors
117. Wiped down injectors with isopropyl alcohol
118. Installed new orings on injectors
119. Installed fuel rail on vehicle
120. Installed MAP sensor
121. Installed ICM & coils
122. Installed EGR
123. Installed serp belt tension bracket
124. Installed alternator
125. Hooked up all electrical connectors, routed wires etc.
126. Hooked up coolant hoses
127. Installed spark plugs
128. Installed spark plug wires
128.5. Installed crank sensor cover
129. Installed crank balancer with old crank bolt
130. Installed serp belt
131. Double checked serp belt routing
132. Triple checked serp belt routing
133. Realized i fuked it up
134. Rerouted serp belt
135. Did steps 131 & 132 again
136. Satisfied with serp belt
137. Put front wheels back on car
138. Lowered car back to the ground
139. Filled up rad with coolant
140. Check oil
141. Hooked up battery
142. Turned on ignition
143. Bled air out of fuel rail via schrader valve
144. STARTED THE CAR!!
145. Oil pressure was normal after approx 5 seconds
146. Listened to glorious idle approx 10 mins
147. Heard fans turn on, temp spiking very fast
148. Shut down car
149. Added another 4 liters of coolant
150. Started car, let idle for approx 30mins, with some revving in there too
150.5. Checked for leaks--no leaks
151. Lots of smoking from the oil & coolant i spilled in various spots in the engine bay
152. hadda beer

--matt

[ November 22, 2003: Message edited by: awesomeame ]</p>

[malice10985]

Magnus's is good for the teardown. I like the fact that he has pictures too.

I'm gonna use yours tommorrow when I put everything back together; except for the screw up parts.

There is soo much stuff laying around in my garage, I don't think I will ever get my engine put back together right. [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]

Here is my important tech question: My Haynes manual gives torque specs plus degrees of turn. ex: 111 lb-ft then 30 degrees of turn. Is it safe to just estimate the degrees of turn at the end? or do I need some sort of degree tool to torque all my bolts back in?

[awesomeame]

i didn't use a degreeing tool, just guestimated. i had some probs with my rocker arm bolt torque tho..here's the thread regarding that: http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...&f=16&t=002029

--matt

[Magnus]

I never used a degreeing tool.. Just make sure you know how much 30 degrees is. ;)

[malice10985]

Holy crap... My roomate and I have spent about 30 hours total on this cam swap so far. [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]

THere is no end in sight. I just want my car to run again.

We have cleaned, rebuilt and resealed everything that came off of the engine. Even the oil pump has been completely rebuilt.

Did you guys do this much refurbishing when you did a cas swap, or did you just stab it in and call it good?