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Update: Heads/Cam is Finished Sound/Video clip inside
Update: Heads/Cam is Finished Sound/Video clip inside
I am wakeing up bright and early to begin the cam install. I have Three days off to finsih this install. I will need everyones suggesting and help. I will continue to post in the topic changeing the title to keep yall informed of problems and/or Progress.
It is about time my cam got his lazy a$$ up off the floor and got into my car. I cant wait.
[ April 08, 2003: Message edited by: slacker69 ]</p>
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
we will have it done this weekend and when everything gets tuned kris will be the first V6 f-body to run 13s NA untouched by magnus! an accomplishment of titanic proportions, one that everyone thought was impossible...
kris you got my number if you need any help.. here are some good tips for the install..
1. your going to need to special tool for pull the fuel lines out of the fuel rail..you can get one anywhere..
remove the crankpully in the begining of the install along with all the little stuff..(alternator,tb,water hoses, etc)..
you going to need a set of torx bits for removing some of the bolts.. everynow now then yuo run into one..
drain the radiator before yuo start anything... this was my mistake..
remove oil sensor with a set off pliers, it comes off really easy..
removing the fuel rail can be very fun, just take out the 4 mounting nuts, disconnect all the injecter(push the clamp in) and then when your pulling te fuel rail out, pull from the opposite side.. so if oyu want the drivers side to come out, stand on the passenger side and your arm will go ver the upper intake and pull straight up on the rail..
when removing the intakes be very gently with the bolts.. they are very weak and will break if oyu try to muscle them out..
here's a good tip for not breaking those plastic tubes everyone seems to break... remove all the bolts from the lower intake, AND remove all the bolts from the tensioner braket and remove it as one piece. it found this to be much easier.. the plastic tube holds those 2 pieces together..
when removing rockers, lifters, and pushrods. label them all so te go back the way they came in.. and soak them in oil before you put them back in..
before removing the cam gear line it up with the crank dot., then remove cam gear and pull off timing chain and gear..
removing the cam guide plate with ease.. there are 2 torx bolts and the hole will stripe easy. be very careful..
when you get the old cam out, remove the key and insert into the new cam. you'll know what i'm talking about.. i used a screwdriver to do this..
also remove the timing chain tensioner, it's much easier to line up all the dot...
there's a buuch more tips i'm going to post, but i have run right now..
most thing import though. torque evefything to specs and be very gentle with the lower intkae bolts... baby the heck out of them..
Well i did a practice run at removeing the cam on my spare block so i feel much better about the install. I striped that block to the crank and pistons in like 4 hours
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> I striped that block to the crank and pistons in like 4 hours <hr></blockquote>
taking them apart is REALLY easy and fast...putting one together is a different story
Well i started at 8:00am central time spent like 30 mins getting the tools all together and the stereo rolling. so far i got all asscesorys off and i got both the intakes off. Heads are next im starting to take pictures after this point.
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
Maybe i'm dumb but why do you have to take both the intake manifolds and heads off, I can only see this needing to be done if your doing rockers and valve springs etc.......
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Maybe i'm dumb but why do you have to take both the intake manifolds and heads off, I can only see this needing to be done if your doing rockers and valve springs etc....... <hr></blockquote>
hes got another set of heads he ported himself to put back on...
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need help finding a balancer and a replacement balancer bolt. im at a lost after confusing myself researching.
4 weeks ago
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