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  • hardcore v6 guys step in./..

    well i think i'm gettin out of the poweradder deal and going for more n/a..

    i need to pick out a serious n/a cam.

    i have a 3020 converter with a 2.37 str, 6300 rpm shift points, 3.42's in the rear and all the basic bolt-ons.. i might be getting my heads done this sunmmer, but i don't know//

    what are some serious cam specs.. i need my car to idle, but i don't care how hard it idles//

    me and magnus were thinking a 218/218 112ls 108ic..

    anyone have any other opinion's//

    right now i run a 206/216 115lsa, 113 ic

  • #2
    I would say that tom at ssm would be able to help you better than any of us he really knows his stuff
    Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,

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    • #3
      thanks bro

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      • #4
        I'm not 100% versed in cams but I have been doing quite a bit of research.

        That cam sounds very good but it may push the power band up past the point of your 6300 shifts.

        I would think something that large would start making major power at about 4000 rpms up past 6500-7000 but I don't know how the engine would like revving that high.

        This is just my speculation but I figure its something to consider I know they advertise a few of the smaller cams to make very good power from 3000-6500 RPMs which is probably the power range your looking for.

        What cam would be perfect WHO KNOWS but thats just my 2 cents. I would worry about the 218/218. I'm sure it will be a ton better N/A than the cam you currently have but it may not be Ideal.

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        • #5
          larger duraitons will typically make more power up in the top.. 3.8's do VERY well in the high rpm's if you let them breath... ie: intake and open y-pipe..

          a 3.73 or 4.10 gear would definately help keep it in the upper RPM's as well.
          Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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          • #6
            I am thinking a 224/236 .578/.578 111lsa
            <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by slacker69:
              I am thinking a 224/236 .578/.578 111lsa<hr></blockquote>

              Holy crap!! Damn, I'd give hella props to someone if they pulled that off. I've got a 222/222 w/ .566" lift on intake and exhaust and my redline has been raised to 7000 rpm to take advantage of my powerband(valvetrain completely replaced). That 224/236 is freaken massive!
              You want to know what\'s on my car? Tough luck!

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              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Holy crap!! Damn, I'd give hella props to someone if they pulled that off. I've got a 222/222 w/ .566" lift on intake and exhaust and my redline has been raised to 7000 rpm to take advantage of my powerband(valvetrain completely replaced). That 224/236 is freaken massive!
                <hr></blockquote>

                hoe does yor car run

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                • #9
                  Haha. Sore subject at the moment. Car was supposed to be done back at the begining of march. But, JE decided to slack on the pistons, so they just now got shipped on monday. My entire engine is Topeka, KS right now getting assembled and balanced. Believe me the minute I get it running I'll have sound clips online. I also had my PCM programmed by Zooomer, quite a few changes had to be made. Glad to see you like yours so much [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] You know what its like having a comlpetely custom engine and you can't drive it? HELL HELL HELL
                  You want to know what\'s on my car? Tough luck!

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                  • #10
                    i talked with tom@ssm and he thinks a 214/214 110ls would make some serious power...

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                    • #11
                      When you run this cam mike are you going for better et n/a??
                      Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,

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                      • #12
                        yea, i want a good n/a times.. cause with a 125 shot it's really not going to make a differnece.. i'm finally learning my lesson on that..

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                        • #13
                          Comp Cam Xtreme Lobes
                          212 Intake @ 0.520"
                          218 Exhaust @ 0.528"
                          112 LS
                          114 IC
                          2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
                          Details: www.1lev6.com

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                          • #14
                            Dominic, why 2 degrees retard?

                            For hard core NA, i'd say at LEAST 218 duration on the intake...
                            Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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                            • #15
                              I keep finding through run after run in dd2k as well as my own personal calculations by hand (I check behind dd2k to see exactly how accurate it really is) that the IC of about 114 on most n/a cams produces the most power from 2000 to 6500RPM. The higher IC allows you to run smaller lobes and end up with more power overall, wheras if you ran a larger lobe duration to get similar valve opening times -- the valve closing times end up being wrong.

                              If nothing else, I would run the cam straightup and grind it 112LS 112IC.

                              This is, also, a huge exception to V8 cam design where 108-110IC is about perfect [img]smile.gif[/img] .

                              Do you see what I mean?

                              EDIT: I'm also not talking like 10hp here. I'm talking more like "lets sacrifice 2hp @ 3,000RPM to gain 20-30hp @ 6500RPM. Its quite astounding. If you want to talk about it pop me an IM.

                              "XXI Dominic"

                              Also, Magnus, you're right about running 218 intake for a hardcore n/a cam if you mean you're going to be running a smaller IC. You make more power overall however and sacrifice much less lowend through optimizing the IC valve timing and going with the smallest lobes necessary (but not really small, I mean 212/218 isn't a tiny V6 cam IMO).

                              Also I've found anything more than a few more degrees on the exhaust side is completely and utterly non beneficial. You would make the same amount of power with a 206/212 as you would a 206/230... in fact the 206/230 (example cam) would make slightly less power overall.

                              The intake closing timing value is the most important, after that is the duration of the intake, and then the exhaust values, and then the lobe separation (I'm just stating this for those of you who have never read books on cam design). Im typing all this on 2 hours of sleep too, so catch me if I'm wrong in any of this [img]smile.gif[/img]
                              [img]graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]

                              Oh and if you don't believe me still, this is a quote from chevy hi performance. I discovered this mathematically first, but just did a little googling and ran across it :D

                              "The most important point in the four-stroke cycle is the intake closing point. While this is not part of overlap, the timing of intake opening and closing determines total duration. The intake closing point is a big determiner in where the engine makes power. A later intake closing point improves top-end power. Combine that with more overlap and you have a cam designed to make power at high rpm. However, it’s possible to decrease overlap by using a shorter-duration intake lobe and retard the intake centerline (which spreads the lobe separation angle) to improve midrange power. "

                              http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95298/ for those who like to read!

                              [ April 07, 2003: Message edited by: Dominic ]</p>
                              2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
                              Details: www.1lev6.com

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