autotap sketchiness

[navyblue2000]

I don't know how much this belongs in adv. tech or not, but after some sessions tapping with different cars...including 2 2000 models...
How accurate can this be?
For instance-
Jason (JASON on the board) Has an A4. He gets knock retard in park when revving, but none when the pedal is mashed. THe tq/hp functions seem to work on his car too, and he has a lot of options.
Me, on the other hand...hp/tq are available but do not show anything. I have a manual, might that have an effect?
I get absolutely 0 KR on revving in Neutral, but I see it when its floored. there are several other options that I cant use that he can? what gives? How accurate isautotap?
would the website have a better version I could upgrade to?

[BillyCobin]

I think you have to use common sense when using autotap. I ran it on my buddy's '98 olds aurora, and it was the first time I had seen the HP option. At WOT it read 32hp, and the engine is rated at 250 some. So if the numbers seem right, I would be inclined to believe it unless I had evidence that they weren't. (Like autotap says there is no knock, but I can hear it.) But, obviously, if the numbers seem way off, then be skeptical.

As far as the KR in park, could be getting predetination, typically engines don't like to rev high without a load. Hence the 3k rev limiter when you are in park.

You didn't say what version of autotap you are currently running. I have both the older version (1.something), and the newest version (2.2). If you have the old one, stick with it. Version 2.2 has been really unreliable, giving me all kinds of errors, freezing, and crashing my laptop.

[Magnus]

If autotap shows KR, your sensors are picking up something. I don't think autotap is going to lie to you about that.

Autotap reports the figures it gets from the PCM through the OBD-II interface port. It won't make up any #'s i'm pretty sure.

Regarding the HP/TQ features. I've never used them so I can't realy can't comment about that.

[navyblue2000]

i'm going to take a tip from ls1tech dot com, maybe....run some 104 octane thru it, let it clean the system out, and see if i can pickup any KR that way. if i still do, it's either realy bad Knock or false KR. my hope is false, ,cuz i can't HEAR any knock at all.
I talked to someone today too, said some GM knock sensors are over sensitive...and also that different things that the PCM sends signals to can be fubar'd...that a 180* stat, or anything lower, can cause knock...or taking the silencer off, because of harmonics issues. was that guy talkin out his butt, or could he have a point?