First off, its been a while since I've been here. But, now Im back and the car is going under construction again. Im planning on purchasing the GT2 cam, I have used LS1 springs and retainers, and I plan on buying chromeoly pushrods as well. Do I really need aftermarket lifters, and do i really need the cam install kit. I mean i see head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets, rocker bolts...wtf? I didnt even think you had to take the heads or the manifold off. And why cant I use my stock rocker bolts? Is this basically all I need (besides oils and gaskets) for my install?
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Need Cam advice
1998 Red Firebird A4 3.8L (3.08)<br />Dynomax bullet then dumped, Carsound cat, NGKTR55 plugs, Taylor Pro 8mm, Hypertech 160*, Whisper Lid, k&n,!FRA, Lifted Airbox<br />(2) Audiobahn 10\" subs<br /> Sony Xplod MP3 Head unit/interchangeable Color DisplayTags: None
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1. the search feature should be able to wrangle most of this information. [img]smile.gif[/img]
2. the lifters that are out on the market are practically stock replacements but it's never a bad idea to replace your stock lifters with at least a new set; it would be a shame to tear into your motor and then have a lifter go down and have to get down in there again.
3. you don't need the "cam install kit" so to speak but you will want to replace all the stuff that comes in it. i bought it and it's cheaper and easier than trying to get all that stuff yourself. i mean, you just don't reuse gaskets; that's common sense. i don't know of any kit that comes with head gaskets... most just come with valve cover gaskets because that's as far down as you need to go. i suppose it would be okay to reuse your rocker arm bolts but then can get stretched and boogered up- so it's still a good idea to replace them.
4. you will also need a few specialized tools like a steering wheel or harmonic dampener remover, a valve spring compressor, and a little air chuck to keep the valves from falling into your cylinders when you remove the retainers.
that's all i can think of. :D
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Well in order for you to get to the cam in the first place, heads, exhaust manifolds will have to come off. I can't see trying to take the cam off while you still have the heads on, it helps to have as much clearance as you can, and yeah it's better to replace all that sh!t than to have it fock up later. While you're at it you should get you're heads done, Valley Machine Shop quoted me $100 to do mine.
Good Luck---Niño---<br /><i>95\' silver 5 spd</i>
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heads stay on. i didnt get new lifters. only ls6 vs and retainers, manley hardend pushrods.
gt2 owna2000 FIREBIRD NBM<br />Thanks to:<br />TSP, ZZP, TCI, Comp Cam, Whisper, GM, Lakewood, TrafficJamz Car Audio,HP Tuner, Alterstart, texas drivetrain and performance, BMR<br /><br />1990 BLUE CAMARO RS<br />1980 z28 <br /><br />venom-vi vice president
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If I was to purchase the GT1 cam, would it be all that necessary to get new pushrods as well? Im not too crazy about tuning my car yet.1998 Red Firebird A4 3.8L (3.08)<br />Dynomax bullet then dumped, Carsound cat, NGKTR55 plugs, Taylor Pro 8mm, Hypertech 160*, Whisper Lid, k&n,!FRA, Lifted Airbox<br />(2) Audiobahn 10\" subs<br /> Sony Xplod MP3 Head unit/interchangeable Color Display
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A friend of mine is putting a Moser 12-bolt rear end on his Trans Am, so Im going to put on his stock 10-bolt w/3.42's. What would be the best stall I could put to go with those gears and the GT1 cam?1998 Red Firebird A4 3.8L (3.08)<br />Dynomax bullet then dumped, Carsound cat, NGKTR55 plugs, Taylor Pro 8mm, Hypertech 160*, Whisper Lid, k&n,!FRA, Lifted Airbox<br />(2) Audiobahn 10\" subs<br /> Sony Xplod MP3 Head unit/interchangeable Color Display
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3300 to 3500 would be great.2000 Firebird. Whisper Lid, True duals, TSP mail order tune, Built Tranny , TCI 2800 stall verter, B&M tranny cooler, Eaton LSD, 3.42 gears. Current best ET. 15.232 89.09 MPH 2.175 60ft on stock 3.42\'s and open diff.<a href=\"http://www.geocities.c
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OK guys did a little research and I just found that Compcamscustomgrind1 from http://www.ftpp.com. From what I heard, this cam is somewhat in between the GT and the GT2. I have LS1 springs/retainers. Im also getting Manley hardened pushrods. Will this cam set off the SES light and will I need to tune my PCM for it to run properly or would I need to tune it just for optimum performance? I couldnt chose between the GT and the GT2 so I thought, Screw it ill meet in the middle.1998 Red Firebird A4 3.8L (3.08)<br />Dynomax bullet then dumped, Carsound cat, NGKTR55 plugs, Taylor Pro 8mm, Hypertech 160*, Whisper Lid, k&n,!FRA, Lifted Airbox<br />(2) Audiobahn 10\" subs<br /> Sony Xplod MP3 Head unit/interchangeable Color Display
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it's ftpp.net
the custom #1 is an FI cam; i think pewter2k1 has it. if you're going all motor (like me) then it would be best to get something without such a huge split limit. the custom #1 is a good power maker but not as good as some of the motor cams out there.
[ June 18, 2004, 04:27 PM: Message edited by: RallyRed 98 ]
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So in other words if Im not really up to tuning my PCM, then it would be best to stick with the GT cam and not the Custom#1 or the GT2. I will eventually spray, I have a kit here waiting to be installed. I just wanted the whole setup which includes the rear end, the stronger valvetrain, the cam of course, and a TC. But I do want to do all of this without tuning.1998 Red Firebird A4 3.8L (3.08)<br />Dynomax bullet then dumped, Carsound cat, NGKTR55 plugs, Taylor Pro 8mm, Hypertech 160*, Whisper Lid, k&n,!FRA, Lifted Airbox<br />(2) Audiobahn 10\" subs<br /> Sony Xplod MP3 Head unit/interchangeable Color Display
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well... i don't know how good of an idea it will be to spray without any kind of tuning, especially with a cam. you will at least want to see what your a/f ratio is before you spray a single drop of nitrous in the motor.
with the auto you will also want to raise your shift points to maximize the new powerband provided by your cam, especially with the duration you were looking at. with a TC and drag radials you might see 12s on a 100 shot...
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