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  • Timing is everything (UPDATED)

    This is completely unrelated to V6 fbodies, but I know alot of you here are familiar with alot more in engines than just 3.4 and 3.8L V6's. Please take a moment and see if you can help me.

    I have a '79 K10 Silverado LWB with a 350 engine and TH-350 trans. The engine has roughly 50k on the rebuild and is modified with an Edelbrock Performer Intake, Performer 600cfm carb and by the word of the previous owner, a Performer cam. It is also running an HEI ignition setup. The truck has had its share of both major and minor problems in the 2 years I've had it, and all but one I have been able to correct. That problem is an eratic timing issue. For starters, (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) when I set the timing at the standard 8-12 degrees BTDC of static advance, the truck will barely idle without the throttle half open. Because of this, the initial timing has to be set over 30deg BTDC (closer to 45 according to my dial-back timing light) to get a decent idle and drivable power. The timing seems to change with the engine temp too.... it seems to be over-retarded below operating temp, and then become over-advanced at operating temp -- to the point of pinging slightly unless I set the inital timing back so far it looses power over 2000 rpms. When it's warm and while watching with timing light, as I increase the revs from idle to 1300-1500rpms, the advance starts to fall back. It will retard over 35 degrees from where it is set. When I let off the throttle, the engine comes off the rev, stumbles and lopes for a while as the advance, over the course of 5 or so seconds, comes back up to where it was set. If I rev above 1500 rpms it starts to advance back up from where it fell back to as though it was set 35 degrees later than it was. This is hard to explain, but I hope you catch my drift.

    I have changed every component related to ignition timing except the camshaft itself. From the timing chain, to the spark plugs, from the distributor, to the plug wires. The coil and HEI module were replaced with ACCEL components, as were the cap, & rotor. I have tried every spring & weight combo known to man for the mechanical advance curve. I thought for sure it was the timing chain because when I changed it, there was a serious amount of play. None of these changes have even slightly affected this eratic timing behavior. I've consulted numerous peple who are knowledgable of engines, spent hours on the phone with a mechanic friend, but have stumped every one of them. I have searched the internet up and down 5 times, and found nothing to help. I am at a loss on what to do short of pulling the engine, tearing it down and starting from scratch. I may just have to swallow my pride and spend a few hundred dollars and take it to a pro, but I'm hoping you can help before I do that.

    One other thing that came to mind recently is that maybe the previous owner shifted the plug wire sequence 1 spark back. When I changed the plug wires, I just replaced them 1 by 1, and did not locate TDC and start from scratch. If this were true, it should start firing, going from Cyl #1 TDC, in this order: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. If the wire sequence was started at 2 instead of 1, the firing sequence when the crank is at 1-TDC it would look like 2,1,8,4,3,6,5,7, and to compensate I would have to advance my distributor 45 degrees (360deg/8cyls) to compensate. This still doesn't account for the temperature related changes and the retardation of the timing around the 1500rpm mark, but it would explain the need for 40deg BTDC advance to even get a decent idle out of it. I'll check that this weekend and follow up.

    Any help, info, input, opinions, and educated (or otherwise) guesses are welecomed and appreciated.

    Thanks and regards...

    -Mike

    [ November 02, 2003: Message edited by: MTMike ]</p>
    <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

  • #2
    A common problem, on the older vacuum advance style distributors, is hooking up the vacuum line to the wrong vacuum source, an intake vacuum source. When it should be hooked up to a ported vacuum source instead.

    Vacuum advance should come in when the throttle is opened. When the line goes directly to intake vacuum, the advance is all in at idle, and when you open the throttle, the vacuum drops and the timing retards, which is the opposite of what is supposed to happen.

    A ported vacuum source will be on the carb, and it will be above the throttle plate. With this setup correctly, there is no vacuum advance at idle, and as the throttle is opened, some vacuum is applied to the advance.

    Check that first. If it's wrong, fixing that will make a world of difference. You'll have to reset the timing correctly to get it to idle, because all that idle advance will be gone. When you get it set up right, you'll have great off-idle throttle response.

    If that's not it, could be a problem with the advance weights (if your's is one that still has mechanical timing advance too). Sticking weights, missing or stretched springs, etc.
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the response.

      This problem is happening with the vacuum advance disconnected. I've experimented with it on the manifold port and the timed port, and it makes no difference in drivability. Plus, having the vacuum advance on the manifold port will bring in that extra advance at idle and will help smooth out the idle. It can be used on both, but it makes no difference in overall performance.... only at idle and in part throttle conditions. As I'm sure you know, vacuum advance is not used for performance, but it's used to help efficiency while crusing or part-throttle driving during high-vacuum conditions. As the throttle blades open, vacuum decreases and vacuum advance reduces.

      Also, I have checked the springs & weights repeatedly. It's a brand new distributor (well, a year old now because I changed it last fall) and it has new weights and springs as of a week ago.

      -Mike
      <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

      Comment


      • #4
        I first thought springs and weights right away, but you've addressed that issue. Is the distributor physically moving around in it's mounting? Is there any shaft play? (if it's new, I doubt it) If not, I suggest pulling the distributor, all the wires, finding TDC, and re-time it from scratch. Triple check every step. Re-timing a distributor SUCKS and I hate doing it, but sometimes you cant avoid it. After all that, at least you'll know that the hard timing is dead on. Good luck.

        Brendan
        2000 L36 M49

        P.S. I love distributorless ignition. [img]smile.gif[/img]
        I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess.....<br /><br />-Red Green

        Comment


        • #5
          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MTMike:
          Thanks for the response.

          ...having the vacuum advance on the manifold port will bring in that extra advance at idle and will help smooth out the idle. It can be used on both, but it makes no difference in overall performance.... As I'm sure you know, vacuum advance is not used for performance
          <hr></blockquote>

          You're welcome. Sounds like you've gone over it pretty thoroughly.

          I would disagree on the "no difference in performance" comment though, about which hookup is used.

          With an intake vacuum source applied at idle, if the engine is set to the correct timing at idle, it will have way too much retard when the vacuum goes away at wot. But with no vacuum applied at idle, if the engine is set to the correct timing at idle, the wot timing will be correct.

          For instance (disregard mechanical advance for this, and assume 10 degrees of vac advance travel):
          - Correct hookup: 10 advance at idle, will go to 20 degrees at part throttle, and fall back to 10 at wot.
          - Incorrect hookup: 10 degrees advance at idle, will fall to 5 at part throttle, and will be 0 at wot.

          The bigger the vac advance spread, the more pronounced the problem becomes.
          \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John_D.:


            You're welcome. Sounds like you've gone over it pretty thoroughly.

            I would disagree on the "no difference in performance" comment though, about which hookup is used.

            With an intake vacuum source applied at idle, if the engine is set to the correct timing at idle, it will have way too much retard when the vacuum goes away at wot. But with no vacuum applied at idle, if the engine is set to the correct timing at idle, the wot timing will be correct.

            For instance (disregard mechanical advance for this, and assume 10 degrees of vac advance travel):
            - Correct hookup: 10 advance at idle, will go to 20 degrees at part throttle, and fall back to 10 at wot.
            - Incorrect hookup: 10 degrees advance at idle, will fall to 5 at part throttle, and will be 0 at wot.

            The bigger the vac advance spread, the more pronounced the problem becomes.
            <hr></blockquote>

            I've heard differently. I've heard you're supposed to time it w/out vacuum advance in mind. Example: 10deg BTDC at idle, then tune the mechanical advance curve. Then hook up the vacuum advance off the manifold port as to give it more advance at idle and part throttle to increase engine efficiency and as vacuum decreases (engine load increases), so does the extra advance

            Your point is good, and I plan to try both setups once I get it fixed & tuned and will choose whichever one yeilds the best drivability and efficiency.

            [ August 14, 2003: Message edited by: MTMike ]</p>
            <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

            Comment


            • #7
              John D is correct, you should be taking your vacuum advance off a timed port, not a manifold port. I also think Lord V probably has the correct answer as well. It sounds like you have eliminated every possible problem except a mis-timed distributor. It will be a pain, but it's about the only thing you have left. Good luck and keeps us informed.
              <b>Mike</b><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mcjoslyn\" target=\"_blank\">2001 Camaro</a><br />Light Pewter Metallic Convertible<br />AU0,A31,C60,DG7,F41,GU6,K34,L36,M30,T82,T96,UN0<p ><b>If it can\'t be expressed in figures, it is not science; it is opinion.</b>

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the input, guys! I'm going to pull all the wires and the distributor this weekend and retime it all. I'll keep you all posted.

                -Mike
                <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just got an e-mail from the editor of Four Wheeler magazine and he mentioned something that makes alot of logical sense. He said that the harmonic balancer might be showing some initerial slippage which is making the timing appear to retard back as the RPMS increase (aka inertia force on the outter ring of the balancer increases, causing slippage of the outter ring on the rubber retainer)!!! I didn't even think of that!!!!!!!!

                  I also did some research online about harmonic balancer problems and timing readings and found out that it's a somewhat common problem.

                  Time for some troubleshooting.... I'm going to check on this before I spend 2 hours retiming the distributor and plug wires.

                  [ August 16, 2003: Message edited by: MTMike ]</p>
                  <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good idea, I'm sorry I didn't think of that. Balancers do sometimes separate, but it's usually pretty rare. The easiest way to tell is to chalk across the ring and the hub and look at it under a timing light at different RPMs.
                    <b>Mike</b><br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/mcjoslyn\" target=\"_blank\">2001 Camaro</a><br />Light Pewter Metallic Convertible<br />AU0,A31,C60,DG7,F41,GU6,K34,L36,M30,T82,T96,UN0<p ><b>If it can\'t be expressed in figures, it is not science; it is opinion.</b>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I am so completely frustrated right now!!!

                      I spent most of yesterday under the hood of that POS.

                      The first thing I did was check the harmonic balancer (hereafter known as HB) for slippage. I took a dab of white paint and put a dot on the pully directly across from the mark on the balancer. I let the engine warm up and timed it. As I increased the revs, I watched the mark on the hb as it slid back (retarded)... and after it was back I hit the pully with the light, and sure enough, it was in the same spot as the hb. I then watched the pulley with the light as I increased revs, and it too pulled back, just like the mark on the hb did. That eliminates hb slippage for the cause of the timing retarding back or appearing so as I increase revs.

                      Next, I located TDC w/ a ratchet on the crank bolt. I pulled the #1 plug and had the neighbor feel for the compressed air coming out of there to ensure I was putting on TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. I then stuck a small screwdriver in the plug hole to verify by feeling the piston that my mark wasn't off, which it's not. I pulled the distributor cap and found the rotor pointing somewhere between the 8 and 4 plug wires (over 60 degrees off in the forward direction). This would explaint me needing to set the timing so far advanced to have the truck run right. So I pulled the distributor and repositioned the rotor so it pointed to the #1 wire. I then verified that the plug wires were in order and going to the right cyls, put everything together and went to crank and was VERy hard to start, and woudln't idle at all... so I advanced the distributor a bit and it made no difference. It sounded like it was running on 4 cyls. So I and my neighbors concurred that maybe I got disoriented and went the wrong way when I repositioned the distributor and actually set it 180* off, so I pulled the dist and flipped it 180*, put it all back together and went to crank, and POP!!! It blew the vacuum line right off the PCV valve (IE Like it was releiving pressure from firing on the intake stroke - way retarded) The engine wouldn't even fire at all.. I'd hear crank crank crank POP crank crank crank POP. So I concluded that it wasn't 180* off and turned the rotor back 180* to the #1 cyl and tried to start again and the same results as above. I pulled it up again and put it back where it was before I started, between the 8 and 4 cyls and it started right up!! Then I went to tighten the distributor back down and byt his time I was tired, hungry and very frustrated I inadverntatly crossthreaded the hold-down bolt hole for the distributor, so I get to re-tap the threads in the intake manifold on top of all this! :rolleyes:

                      I am at a complete loss now. My last 2 ideas proved to be shots in the dark that missed. I just don't know what to do from here. And I surely can't afford a mechanic at this point.

                      [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] :mad: [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img] :mad: [img]graemlins/crybaby.gif[/img]
                      <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Damn, that sucks. I'm out of ideas.

                        Are you sure it's a Chevrolet 350 and not a 350 Oldsmobile? [img]tongue.gif[/img]

                        I only like old cars with modern engine components....

                        Good luck on that, keep us updated. Wish I had more ideas....

                        Brendan
                        2000 L36 M49
                        I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess.....<br /><br />-Red Green

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Lord_Verminaard:
                          Are you sure it's a Chevrolet 350 and not a 350 Oldsmobile? [img]tongue.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>

                          Thats a possiblity! It would explain more than anything more we could try. How would I go about telling?
                          <b>Trucks</b> <br />\'05 Dodge 3500 Dually <i>Cummins Turbo Diesel</i><br />\'98 Dodge 2500 4x4 <i>360 V8 (Wife\'s)</i><br /><b>Toys</b><br />\'81 Chevy K10 <i>Stroker/Swampers/Custom Suspension/1-Tons/Beadlocks</i><br />\'99 Camaro Z28 <i>6 Spd, T-tops, Borla</i><br /><br /><b>Real trucks don\'t have spark plugs</b>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hmm, let me think about this...

                            Ok, first: How many bellhousing bolts are there? (engine to transmission)

                            If there are five, it is a chevy block. The starter should also be on the passenger side. If this is the case, you're done, and you can continue troubleshooting. (see note at bottom)

                            If there are six, it could be an Olds or a Pontiac. (or Buick, but Buicks have distributors in the front) To tell the difference, count the bolts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head. If there are six bolts on each side, it is a Pontiac block. If there are five bolts on each side, it is an Olds block. The firing orders of each are different as well.

                            *Note: How did the gear on the distributor look when you had it out? If it is fine on the distributor side, get a good small flashlight and try to see the gear on the camshaft side, if it's chewed up (very rare, but it can happen, especially if whoever installed it wasnt careful) it can cause "spark scatter" and cause strange timing issues. Also, if there is excessive endplay in the camshaft, it can actually cause the distributor to skip on occasion and really mess up timing. Again, very rare, but who knows. I'm sure you checked the ignition module, but if you are running errands sometime, go out and pop off the module and take it to a local Advance auto, they can test them. I've seen and tested GM HEI modules that worked on the car but still tested bad. Ask the associate to cycle it through the test a few times to heat it up. (they should know this, but you never can tell)

                            If nothing above solves it (and it is in fact a chevy motor) then I dont know what the hell to tell you. [img]tongue.gif[/img] It's things like this that make you wish you could hook up those old cars to a computer and have it "tell you" what is wrong. :cool:

                            Good luck with it, hope I could help somehow.

                            Brendan
                            2000 L36 M49

                            [ August 19, 2003: Message edited by: Lord_Verminaard ]</p>
                            I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess.....<br /><br />-Red Green

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The distributor, cap, etc. needs to go back as it was when you first started. When you rotated it 180 degrees, and the hose popped off, you were 180 out of phase at that point.

                              When you eyeballed the rotor position to determine timing, there is not really a good way to do that. If you had the #1 piston at exact tdc (which is nearly impossible to do without a tdc locator, because you get several degrees of crankshaft rotation with very slight piston movement when the piston is at the top of the stroke), then the rotor would have been past #1 anyway, because the normal timing position is advanced anywhere from 10 to 35 degrees before tdc. So the rotor contact is set up to center on #1 several degrees before tdc. At tdc the rotor is already past the contact.

                              Once the distributor is repositioned, adjust for the highest idle, where it starts to go up and down a little on it's own, then back off about 10 degrees. You will be pretty close at that point, close enough to tune it anyway.

                              When you put the vac advance hose back on, make sure the vac hose is not on an intake vac port, it must be on a port above the throttle blade. If you don't do this, you can't dial it in at all, and you will always have a off-idle stumble.

                              As far as the balancer, the outer ring won't rotate back and forth. What it will do, is migrate over a long period of time. Sounds like this is what's happened. If your best timing is 40 degrees advanced according to the timing mark, then the outer ring (and the timing mark) has rotated. You can remark the balancer by finding tdc on #1, then file a mark on it. Eventually it may migrate a little more, or it may not. It won't move just while tuning it though.

                              Or instead of making a new mark, just use your adjustable light to get back to the individual marks so you can see small changes and then tune it by driving it... If you get pinging, take 2 degrees out at a time, until it goes away, then take 2 more degrees off. If you don't have pinging, you can keep adding timing until you get some, then come back off 2-4 degrees. The ping check should be under moderate load in a higher gear.
                              \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

                              Comment

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