EGR delete

[12secondv6]

Ok, so I see LS1 people doing it.

Can we?

My metal pipe from the base of it to the header broke years ago. I just bent and crimped the metal hose on the header.

Tonight I dissconnected the plug into the EGR and started the car fine.

I removed it and started the car.

I heard a loud whistling and the car ran like sh*t.

Can we delete it?
Is there a way to bypass it?
Can we improve on it?
Is it really needed?

It cleaned up my engine bay so I'm interested in this.

I know zoomer sells a blockoff plate for the hose to header connection.

Comments?

[Tiago]

we did it on slacker's car, just have to seal the intake and the header ports. No problems except I think he said it is somehow related to converter lock up and his isn't locking up sometimes now.

[Magnus]

James, get with it.. we've been doing this for YEARS..

just need a few plates to block the stuff off... Put some black RTV on the intake, a THIN layer to help seal it.. and on the exhaust a THIN layer of ultra copper.. and tighten it down TIGHT. it's pretty hard to get the exhaust one to seal PERFECTLY.

[slacker69]

Yeah comeon James you will throw a SES light due to not finign and opening the egr valve but whats new.

[John_D.]

When my valve was disconnected from the wiring harness, it would set a light.

No biggie, right...

EXCEPT -- with my automatic, and with that particular code set, the dang thing would no longer shift into third without hitting the rev limiter (and it would just keep hitting the limiter, not shifting, until I let off the gas...)

Hooked the harness back up, reset the code, and it shifted fine again... Pretty weird huh!?

I ended up leaving the tubes blocked off, and the valve just sitting there, still connected to the wiring.

[Wicked 3800 V6]

Mine's removed and blocked off. Getting the exhaust side to seal is a ***** not worth fighting for, particularly after the codes. I actually used an A/C fitting. Figures. Do it anyway. [img]smile.gif[/img]

A better mod is the EGR re-route, taking filtered air in thru the valve. No codes, I hear.
-Rob

[camaro_speedemon]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Wicked 3800 V6:
Mine's removed and blocked off. Getting the exhaust side to seal is a ***** not worth fighting for, particularly after the codes. I actually used an A/C fitting. Figures. Do it anyway. [img]smile.gif[/img]

A better mod is the EGR re-route, taking filtered air in thru the valve. No codes, I hear.
-Rob<hr></blockquote>

How do you do this?

[Red2K1]

12secondv6,

E-mailed you a Word file with pics on how I rerouted the EGR intake to use cold filtered outside air. So far (20,000 miles), only benefits and no codes.

[AllTheGoodNamesAreGone]

hmm thats a pretty good idea rob.. with a little breather filter or something i suppose it can work..

[nikon]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by AllTheGoodNamesAreGone:
hmm thats a pretty good idea rob.. with a little breather filter or something i suppose it can work..<hr></blockquote>

thats all I did on mine, threw a code when I blocked the pipe, so I figure hey what can a little breather hurt...5$ at pep-boys, you get a wierd whistle when the egr opens though..doesnt bother me much...and now that you mention the lockup, after doing that a little way down the road, the converter will lock up at about 30 then start slipping again at like 32 and wont lock up and shift till 40....funny...

[darkthoughts5000]

just got new headers on and got the EGR tube welded over. no complaints here, and ive gotten my car up to 110 mph with no probs. car shifts fine and accelerates great (though probably due to new headers), but my car is automatic... dont know what will happen to a manual.

[12secondv6]

Red2K1, I appreciate the info... but now I'm getting a bit confused.


ok, we have a pipe off the header into the bottom of this cylinder thing with a wire connection on the top. this is what i thought was the egr.

currently on my car the metal pipe from header to cylinder thing has split. initially there was leaking air so i bent the metal pipe over itself many times towards the header and kinda seaked itself.

I know zoomer sells block off plates for the header connection or i can make one.

Can i remove the black cylindrical thing with the wire into the top of it?

I did this and had a poor idle and loud whistle.

Are we talking about adding a plate here also to completely remove the black cylindrical piece with the wire connection into it?

Also from the base where the black cylindrical thing is mounted there is another line from there to the upper intake manifold.

Can we do something with this also?

Red, what place did you add an extra line and mini air filter?

What material did you use?

I had a serious time trying to decifer the pictures.

I appreciate the help but i was hoping you all might have more info for me and pic's are a plus!!

Thanks so much for the info/ replies so far.

[nosv6]

Can I get down on this word file, and if you block the ports off what happens to the egr valve itself? And does the car run better or what?

[redbird00]

i want to look at this word file as well...

redbird00@hotmail.com

ps my egr **** is leaking to it sux, need a cure fast...

merlin

[Red2K1]

Okay, I have done this EGR thing to only two cars: 2001 3.8 manual 5 speed Camaro and a 1999 3.8 auto Lumina LTZ. These are my only two points of refernce.

Why did I reroute the EGR intake? This reroute does not produce any more power at WOT. You do, however, get a better throttle response at partial throttle and the carbon and other stuff in the exhaust gas is not injected into the intake manifold so the intake doesn't get gunked up and stays cooler.

What follows is how I did the reroute on the Camaro. The LTZ was very similar.

There are a couple of things that you do not do:
1- do not remove the egr valve,
2- do not disconnect the electrical connection from the top of the egr valve or otherwise interupt the electrical communication between the egr and the engine management computer.

What I did is this:
1- disconnect the flexible metal tube from the exhaust manifold. There is an integrated colar on the metal tube that holds it fast to the exhaust manifold. One bolt does the job. Simply remove the bolt from the manifold and pull the metal tube from the exhaust manifold.

2- after the metal tube is removed from the exhaust manifold you are left with a hole in the exhaust manifold. This hole must be sealed. I sealed the hole using the egr block-off plate from ZZPerformance. It was the simplest way for me to seal the hole. The block off plate worked perfectly on the LTZ, but not on the Camaro. I had to get a shorter bolt for the Camaro and had to enlarge the hole somewhat in the block off plate.

3- now, you are left with a sealed exhaust manifold and that's cool and finished, but you have an open egr feed tube sucking unfiltered air. Actually, that is more or less okay if you don't mind injecting under hood air with whatever may be in it into the intake manifold. The point is, the air should be filtered and in my opinion the air should be "cold."

The way to get cold filtered air to the egr is really left up to your imagination. The way I did it was to pick up air from my Whisper Lid. This was simple for me because I had already removed the IAT sensor from the lid and bridged the IAT sensor with an 18K ohm resistor to get max spark advance. (This resistor mod is a Dominic thing that I suspect you guys have read about.) Then I took a length of rubber emissions tubing, made a 45 degree cut on one end and inserted that end into the IAT sensor groment in the Whisper Lid and inserted the other end of the rubber tubing into the flex metal tubing. I sealed around the rubber to metal tubing contact with some silicone sealent.

As I stated in an earlier post, no problems or codes after 78,000 miles on the LTZ and 20,000 plus miles on the Camaro.

Well, that's it. My powers of description are not the greatest -- I hope you all are able to follow my response.