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  • Fix for P1153? Advanced!

    Alright, in the LS1 aftermarket, this code is a known issue. It stems from aftermarket headers getting rid of heat faster than the O2's would like, and they don't switch as they should. For background, my car has fresh Bosch O2 sensors on it, and until it got cold here about 2 weeks ago, I had no SES light thrown.

    With that said, the LS1 guys are replacing their front O2 sensors with the C5 Corvette's REAR sensors. They say that these sensors' heaters stay on longer, and appease the PCM, and still read correctly and the PCM will still adjust the A/F accordingly. Also the harness from these sensors is longer, and for those few V6 guys who have ended up needing extensions would not need any extensions!

    Any experience with this? MAGNUS and others who have swapped motors: Are the LS1 sensors, the rear vette sensors in particular, compatible with our V6 front sensors as far as the PCM is concerned?? Are there any downsides to using the Vette's rears sensors?
    <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

  • #2
    That's a good idea.

    Here is what I remember from my swap... I only had one o2 sensor that came with the LS1. So I planned to use the v6 sensors. But the connectors didn't match the harness on the ls1.

    So I used the one sensor. And... The rear sensor from the v6, had the same harness plug as the ls1 front. So I was able to get 2 ls1 front sensors that way.

    Then I just used the v6 sensors as fillers for the rear holes on the ls1 exhaust.

    The v6 fronts are different connectors than the ls1. The v6 front is different than the v6 rear. And the v6 rear is the same as all 4 on the ls1.

    So to get the vette sensors to work on the front of the v6, would require splicing in the correct connector. (and getting the right wires to the right pins) If anybody wants to do this, send me an email, and I will look up the pinouts in my Helms manual. (that's how I figured out my rear v6 sensor would work as a front ls1 sensor)

    I believe the reporting is the same, its just a higher wattage heater. (in the vette sensor)
    \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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    • #3
      Thanks for your input John! Do you happen to know if the front other LS1 sensors (all except for the erar on the Vettes) run the heaters longer than our V6 sensors do?

      I don't really want to kill the light on this code, as it could be pertinent down the road.

      Splicing our rear harness(es) into the front would be easy as it is just soldering, but I would need the pinouts or color-schemes at least.

      Do you see this as a feasible solution to this code? I know the LS1 sensors are fairly easy to come by, especially on cars with gutted cats or Off-road pipes. I think this will become common for our V6 cars, especially when Pacesetter and thers come around and make a long(er) tube header. Thanks for your input once again!
      <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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      • #4
        I don't think it's the length of the on-time, I believe it's the wattage of the heater.

        I haven't heard of any sensors that stay on longer or run hotter, other than the rear vette ones.

        I think it would make a difference, depending on the length of the headers. I'm running MAC mid-lengths on my ls1, and the sensors are cold on the mid-lengths. So I would think they could run cold on a v6 header too.

        I sorta tuned around it for now, by moving the o2 switching voltage down to .325, just on the low end of the air flow scale. But I'm thinking the hotter sensors would be better.
        \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

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        • #5
          well, that really doesn't make any sence. The 02 sensor doesn't control the on off time of the heater, the computer does. The sensor has a constent fused hot feed to the heater and the PCM will ground the other side heating the sensor. After inital warm up (about 1-3 mins) the heater willturn off cause the exhaust has reached high enough temps for the 02 to be conductive..
          1996 Silver camaro Z28. M6,<br />12 bolt, 4.11\'s, posi, Rear cover, Spec stage 2, loudmouth, more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=1</a> &lt;Mods, Pics & more <a href=\"http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.mainstreamtopics.com/?index=3&module=2</a> &lt;Fbody Tech Articals

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