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  • 1.9 Ratio Rocker Report

    Ok, All is well. Just finished swapping the stock 1.6 rockers with the intense stage III 1.9 alluminum roller rockers. Started car...no tick tick tick. Went driving for about an hour. Car has more power. I also think the exhaust ricey/raspiness was pushed up higher in the rpm range. That's ok by me. Car sounds 'tougher' while pulling under load or incline...a bit more guts, too. There is no noticable difference in engine tone at idle.
    I did not change the pushrods nor did I upgrade the valve springs. (7000 miles on engine...I don't ride the rev limiter much either.)
    Would I recommend this mod? Yes. Would I recommend them over a performance cam? Well...those are two completly different mods. Those that want a cam tend to either know how to instal it, modify the rest of the valvetrain and/or are not concerned about emissions nor gas mileage. If you want an actual "more fuel to the cylinders = more horsepower" upgrade for your 3.8L but do not want or do not know how to change a cam...(and don't plan on aftermarket-high lift cam in the future) then high ratio rockers are a nice modification to consider. They are a bit pricey...but just about every (real HP increasing) modification for these cars is expensive.

    Notes on instal:
    RE: the dreaded Passenger Side Lift Bracket.
    If you have yet to take yours off...well, it's not fun. If you have managed to get the passenger side lift bracket off...then good going. You know who you are. [img]graemlins/rock.gif[/img] I, however, can not join ya'll on the podium to celebrate...I was not able to get the SECOND lift bracket bolt off. I got the first bolt off...the one on the outside corner, by raising the car very high off the ground, (careful please...recomend second 'safety' jack...you'll be pushin pretty hard) driving to the auto store to get more metric tools...especialy a long handled 13mm wrench, putting on two pairs of gloves for padding on my little girly hands before I could get that outside *(&^5#% piece of ($%%#@()* )( &^ bolt to budge. FINALLY. phew.... I just could not get any leverage on the second..inner bracket bolt. I then grabbed a 3' long 2x2 and a hammer. standing near the front passenger side I bent the bracket back with the 2x2 and the hammer. WHAP, WHAP. WHAP. (Don't break anyting..there are heater hoses back ther.) The bracket metal is pretty soft, too. it can be tweaked and bent by hand.
    Now that the braket is off/bent away...you can get to the lower rear valve cover bolt.

    The 1.9 kit comes with 6 pedastal plates and 12 convex rocker pedastals. The stock one piece rocker pedalstal plate is removed when installing this kit. The directions do not mention this...but it becomes obvious that the stock plate has to go in order to use the new plate/pedastals. I suggest installing the rockers from the rear of the engine and working forward. This way you can make sure that the pedastals are properly fited to the plate as well as the push rod seating in the rocker. Snug them down (torque later...after all rockers are snug on one side of v6) so they stay in place and then move on to the next rocker. Pretty easy.

    For 'newer...younger mechanics'...if you do not have a well developed mechanicaly minded photographic memory then make sure you either lable the nuts and bolts, take notes, or at least once you have a particular 'divice' off the engine that you replace the nuts/bolts where they belong until it it is time for reassembly. Get a manual too. Don't drop a rocker pedestal in the head. use two hands while bolting up the new rocker/pedastals.

    I used a real old pistol grip oil can (thanks grandpa) to liberaly squirt syntec 10w30 over the rocker, rods, etc., before putting the valve covers back on.

    BTW Haynes manual said to 'move the trannsmission dipstick tube'. remember that second lift bracket bolt I talked about earlier? I did not have to move the tranny stick tube to get the valve cover off.

    Time to install...Well...um, it took longer than expected. I had to get more tools...(don't you like it when you buy a 'set' of say...deep sockets...and it does not come with 'all' sizes...sheesh.) The darn lift bracket took FAR too long. That kinda messed up my hours.... Give yourself extra time if you still have that passenger lift bracket on the car. Reassembly was less than 2 hours...including the rockers. It was my first time tearing down mine or any 3.8 L metric engine that far. (I am pretty familiar with vintage, non serpintine v-8's, to say the least)

    "psst. pssst... hey, buddy... the 3/8 drive swivel is your friend." ;)

    EDIT UPDATE:
    finally installed LS6 springs. Valve float is gone. All systems go. I would always recommend upgrading the springs along with the high ratio rockers. It adds time to the install...but worth it.

    [ January 11, 2005, 02:41 AM: Message edited by: grayman ]
    01 Firebird A4 3.42
    Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
    and other mods
    Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

  • #2
    Um,,,,i ment to say Intense 3rd Gen 1.9 rockers.
    01 Firebird A4 3.42
    Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
    and other mods
    Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

    Comment


    • #3
      Excellent post, thank you for the info. [img]graemlins/bowdown.gif[/img] I know I will find it very helpful as I am planning on getting a set myself. [img]graemlins/banana.gif[/img]

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      • #4
        Now you're going to have to take her up to redline, or close, to tell us if there is any valve float. Do you think the stock springs are good enough for the 1.9's?

        By the way, great write up! I've been looking forward to it since you mentioned that you were upgrading in the rockers thread. I think you just sealed the deal- I'm getting them

        [ November 22, 2004, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: majeskyb ]
        2000 silver A4 Camaro<br />Whisper lid; Free Ram Air; BMR stb; MSD super conductor wires; Gatorback belt?<br />1986 RX-7 (daily driver)

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        • #5
          RE: valve float...
          I did drive the card pretty darn hard last night. SOTP difference. But...remember I have an Auto Trans..(if that matters) can someone describe the effects of valve float? I mean, how do I tell if the engine is experiencing valve float. I am still pretty new to the 3.8L and have also never experienced valve float on built up vintage v-8 cars from my SAE days.
          I assume it is not a "gonna blow motor" or break a valve type deal...um..lack of performance...don't real know.

          GPFish replied in other post thread that he had valve float at 5900 rpm. I think he said he has 80,000 miles on engine. I have about 7500. (just did first tire rotation last weekend:)

          I guess if you plan on driving pretty hard....better safe than sorry. You will also have everything else off the car...so good time to do it. If doing it yourself I hope you have an air compressor...and get the small 'clamp' style spring compressor kit with the spark plug air compressor fitting thingamajigy at the same time. You may also want stronger push rods for the stronger springs. Let me know how it goes. g
          01 Firebird A4 3.42
          Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
          and other mods
          Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

          Comment


          • #6
            How much more power do you think you got from this? Are you planning on posting on the affects that it has had on your gas milage after you have had them in for a while?
            2002 M5 camaro- VTR CAI, custom cat-back exhaust, battery compacitor, pullie, lowering springs, 32mm sway bar, cross-drilled slotted rotars. 1-10\" L7 in cubby.

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            • #7
              well, I have about 64k miles on my car. I don't know. I'll probably wait on the springs. The car isn't ever driven hard, so I shouldn't have any problems. If I do, I'll just order the springs and put them on
              2000 silver A4 Camaro<br />Whisper lid; Free Ram Air; BMR stb; MSD super conductor wires; Gatorback belt?<br />1986 RX-7 (daily driver)

              Comment


              • #8
                RE: "How much more power...?
                Well, cutting out the bottom of the airbox and switching from paper filter to K&N airfilter seemed to give more/better throttle response. Adding the FT ram air seemed to help the car get to 100mph faster. Those two modes basicaly just made the car perkier, more responsive. Adding the 1.9 rockers added more power on top of all that. Not like a big *** cam...I know what that is like...but more power than stock, regardless. It is probably like quoted in the propaganda...10 or so horse power for lightly moded N/A car. I think they will compound well when I redo the stock exhaust and get some big piping from one end of the car to the other. I plan of seeing an even bigger gain from the rockers when I add a SC.
                Again...a cam would be much more substantial...from the safeway parking lot all the way to the track...I just don't want to go that route.
                As for gas mileage...um,...yea, I can post that if ya'll want. up to now I have been 13 gallons = 250+ miles. I don't drive like a granny...I drive like I have a firebird and like it. (city/freeway miles)

                :cool:
                01 Firebird A4 3.42
                Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
                and other mods
                Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

                Comment


                • #9
                  oh yea...it was rainy tonight. couldn't 'test drive' any further. Still interested in learning how to tell when valve float is occuring. Maybe I will have to make a more specific post about that.
                  01 Firebird A4 3.42
                  Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
                  and other mods
                  Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Some GPers use stock springs for awhile when they have low miles on their cars with success. However after awhile they will tend to wear and you will get valve float. Thats why I say it is better to do springs and rockers all at once. Dont wanna be in my shoes and have to do it all over again.

                    Usually with rockers, you feel the difference over 4K rpms. Thats where I felt it and thats where I was told Ill feel it.

                    On a lighter note, I finally did hit 14.94@91MPH even with valve float. [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    Also since the Grand Prix is mounted transverse, it is ALOT easier to install the front ones, but a PITA to install the rear ones.
                    1999 Grand Prix GT<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.fishsgt.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fishsgt.com</a><br /><br />Best ET: 14.94@91.25MPH with a 2.2 60\"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      GPFish:
                      Good job on the new lower time.
                      Can you describe the effects of valve float? This may be a silly question, I know...but the auto starts to shift at about 5600-5700 or so...not realy sure what to look/notice, to confirm valve float. I hear what you say about "sooner or later" with newer stock springs versus old stock springs.
                      01 Firebird A4 3.42
                      Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
                      and other mods
                      Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You can feel a loss of power and hear some clicking.
                        1999 Grand Prix GT<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.fishsgt.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fishsgt.com</a><br /><br />Best ET: 14.94@91.25MPH with a 2.2 60\"

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                        • #13
                          Also to take full advantage of the rockers, I say to have the computer flashed to shift at 6K RPMs. You will still keep in the power band, but you might also have valve float appear at those speeds. I do know that DHP just listed that they are offering PCMs for Fbodys now as well. Im not sure about their powertuner.
                          1999 Grand Prix GT<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.fishsgt.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fishsgt.com</a><br /><br />Best ET: 14.94@91.25MPH with a 2.2 60\"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This was a good write up! However, since going to a 1.9:1 ratio rocker... is it really needed to change to a stronger valve spring? The total lift should only be around .490 and I thought I read before that the stockers are good up to .500 but i'm not 100% sure on that.
                            Thanks, <br />JAM<p>02 Firebird GT

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              JAM, Yes, I think you are correct about the stocker springs good up to .5000. But, in reality, the dudes that have more experience with the high ratio rockers...(mainly the FWD GP type cars) mostly concure that old/new stock valve springs will immediatly or eventualy sucumb to valve float. I was pretty confident aobut my young springs handling it...and the springs and compressor kit would have cost another 150 bucks or so...and then I would get harder push rods for the new springs as well...???? So I just went the cheaper rout....trying to save 200 bucks versus my time if I need to tear into the engine again to do the springs. It has been wet and icey here so very little hard driving to test the springs.
                              I will post a follow up for sure if I encounter valve float. I figure I have a pretty good test vehicle as the rockers went on perfectly...no tick tick tick/nothing goofy when fired up engine for first time and the engine has very low miles (7500 miles).
                              01 Firebird A4 3.42
                              Powerdyne @ 6 PSI
                              and other mods
                              Visit Project Unleashed for guides and info.

                              Comment

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