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  • Need engine building help im stuck

    new fresh block with the right size pistons and rings i put all the pistons and rods in with right direction and using ring compressor and then i lay the crank in there with all new Clevite bearings. As soon as i start to put rod caps on and tighten them down the Crank will no longer turn over. its is cmpletely frozen i tried with heavy oil and with Assembly lube.

    Please help me out what am i doing wrong
    <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

  • #2
    How tight are you tightening the main caps down??
    Jeff ..
    1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold

    2002 WS6 T/A.. Bolt ins..448rwhp
    2009 G8 GT.. Vararam intake, GXP axleback
    1998 Corvette.. Vararam intake, Ti axleback
    http://www.fquick.com/slow-v6

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    • #3
      You're putting the pistons/rods in first? You're supposed to put the crank in, then put the rods/pistons in. Also, are the rings supposed to be file fit or are they stock replacement that you just throw in? If they're file fit and you didnt fit them to the bores, they're probably butted and locking down in the cylinders. If you put the crank in first you'll be able to single out the problems easier. You also might want to mic your rod/main journals to make sure you have the correct bearings.
      <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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      • #4
        Main caps are not on. I reused the same pistons with their rings on them only one piston broke it didnt affect the cyl walls i had a shop check that. So rings and pistons have been in there before with no block work. But i did put all pistons in first then line rods to the crank as i put it in and but 3 rod caps on and the motor would lock
        <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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        • #5
          Crank needs to be installed first, with the caps torqued to spec. Then insert the pistons and connect to the crank.

          I don't know much about bottom end rebuilds, but don't you have to hone the cylinders and get new rings?? What's the point of doing a rebuild if you use old rings that aren't going to seal?

          [ October 13, 2005, 11:34 PM: Message edited by: 98Camaro3.8 ]
          Matt
          1998 Mystic Teal Camaro M5
          Whisper Lid, Pacesetter Headers, Catco Cat, Dynomax Super Turbo, B&M Shifter, BMR STB, LSD, P&P Intakes, GT2 Cam, Comp OE Lifters, 1.7 Roller Rockers, Pushrods, SSM Heads, DHP PowrTuner.

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          • #6
            Yeah put the crank in first.
            1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
            1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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            • #7
              old rings are fine only 7k miles on them ship said they are perfect and will hold compression just as good as new rings
              <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

              Comment


              • #8
                You will be ok with the slightly used rings, if they actually are in good shape.

                They say to hone the cylinders but if they look good (you can still see the factory hone marks well) its probably ok. I have done it before.

                If I was doing a 200 thousand mile rebuild on a previously smoking car, I would replace all that, or whatever. On a race motor I would too.

                You will be ok.
                Just bolt the crank in, I would plastigage it.
                Dont rotate the motor with plastigage installed.
                Then remove the plastigage, check out the clearances, lube the main bearings and reinstall the crank and mains, for good.
                The bolt the rods on and plastigage them, remove them and check clearances.
                If everything STILL looks ok, bolt the rods back on with lubed bearings. Then carefully and slowly rotate the motor (not very many times at all.)
                1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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                • #9
                  may sound stupid but when i put a motor together before, i used a white lube and it would turn over like you said then i switched to a black lube and everything was fine. something to think about but you do need to get the crank in first and make sure its within specs
                  2000 3.8 A4 Pewter Camaro

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                  • #10
                    Make sure and put the pistons back in the same hole they came out of otherwise the rings wont seal like they're supposed to. Put the top ring gap away from the thrust side, the 2nd ring gap towards the thrust side, and the oil ring gap away from the thrust side with the rails on the opposite side about 90* apart from each other.
                    <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the info i will Try it later today. The Cly walls still have the hone Crosshatching marks from 1st hone.
                      <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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                      • #12
                        well i tried it put crank in put main caps on and it spun fine then i put 1st pison #1 cly in and put rod cap on and motor locked up im so confused
                        <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I found my problem i got the .01 undersized bearings for mains but they didnt send my .01 undersized bearings for rods &gt;.&lt;
                          <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Turned crank? The plastigage would have picked that up for ya.

                            Glad you found it.
                            Good luck.
                            1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                            1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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