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  • Having problems with the new cam.

    First off, here's what I had put in. Comp Cams 206/212 113lsa .512/.520, Springs #26-915, Retainer #774 and Pushrod #7939. We had one rocker bolt come lose which was fixed by using the high strength red lock tight. The stock rocker bolts were reused.


    It feels really strong from 3,000 rpm up till about 5,000 rpm where it feels like somebody hits the brakes or something, then it pulls through it and gets going about 5,300 rpm on up to the red line. I even had fire shoot out the tail pipes when I didnt' shift till 5,500. I had the Jet Chip in at the time of the flames. Since then, I've pulled that and am running premium gas with no timing advance. It still feels like somebody's hitting the breaks right at 5,000 rpm but it's not as bad as it was with the Jet Chip in. I have had it pull hard all the way up to redline a few times though.

    I also can hear a little chatter or something around 1,800 rpm when just sitting there idling, not sure if it's the valve train or an accessory or what, haven't had a chance to get anybody to control the gas for me yet.

    Anybody have a clue what is going on, am I running lean or am I getting KR or what? I'm trying to find somebody around here with AutoTap to see what that looks like.
    1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

  • #2
    Well im not sure about the other problem but the rocker arm bolts should not be resused they are specficly one time use only items. Order a new set from gmpartsdirect.com like 15 bucks man.
    <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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    • #3
      The Rocker bolts seemed to be fine, they were threaded all the way up and you couldn't see any streaching on them. I would have replaced them but the mechanic didn't suggest it untill after one came loose so I didn't order them.

      Could it be that I'm running lean because my stock fuel system can't keep up? I can't think of anything that would hit like that only at 5,000 rpm's.
      1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

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      • #4
        Just for emphasis, I saw a nice size flame shoot out his tailpipes when we were racing. It had a loud pop like a backfire, it shot the flame, and kept pulling, no shut down or power loss because of the pop.

        PS...Kendall, get it fixed soon! I hated being in front of you in that race until 70mph when you finally started to pull up. Bring it by work if you need it scanend for SES lights.
        <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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        • #5
          sounds like some major knock retard at 5k, autotap your best friend for heavy mod tuning......

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          • #6
            U probably need the maft+ if u dont have it to tune it also i would reset the computer and let it relearn fuel curves also i would do your best to autotap it cause i am sure u are detinating and knocking big time inside the motor
            <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

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            • #7
              Most likely you're running very lean in the topend and its detonating like the others are saying... You probably just need a lot more fuel - the 206/212 likes to breathe I kid you not.
              2002 5-spd NBM Camaro
              Details: www.1lev6.com

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              • #8
                sounds like your timing has to be off.
                Turbocharged and intercooled.<br />17psi(oops), stock fuel pump, no FMU<br /> <a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.cardomain.com/id/phoenix64</a> <br />Video: <a href=\"ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com\" target=\"_blank\">ftp://ftp.pfabrication.com</a> Assorted car ****: TurboCamaroFull.

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                • #9
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by OneQuickV6:
                  Just for emphasis, I saw a nice size flame shoot out his tailpipes when we were racing. It had a loud pop like a backfire, it shot the flame, and kept pulling, no shut down or power loss because of the pop.

                  PS...Kendall, get it fixed soon! I hated being in front of you in that race until 70mph when you finally started to pull up. Bring it by work if you need it scanend for SES lights.
                  <hr></blockquote>


                  So if you seen the fire come out of the tailpipes when you were racing this means you lost. Sounds like the cam is working!
                  :D

                  Rocker bolts may appear to be in good shape but are still not safe to reuse just because they stretch and you will not get proper TQ on the bolt if you reuse them. This is why your rocker came loose.

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                  • #10
                    I also say you might have some severe KR. But you need to log it to be sure of it and verify that your fuel is ok. It could be real KR if you are running really lean, or it could be false(valve train noise, etc).

                    Also, it might be in your best interest to put some new rocker bolts on them.

                    DEE
                    1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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                    • #11
                      DEE, do you have AutoTap? I'll be back in Denison the 20th through the 30th.

                      Pgriffith, no it's not working, I pulled on him more before the cam. It's like I'll start to take off from him and I suddenly stop accelerating and Matt stays with me.

                      So is it the stock pump or injectors that are slacking? Or does it just need to be tunned with MAFT? I want to get the Hypertech to up the rev limiter but right now my peak is at 5,000rpms.
                      1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

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                      • #12
                        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ttop34:
                        DEE, do you have AutoTap? I'll be back in Denison the 20th through the 30th.

                        <hr></blockquote>

                        Yup, I am pretty sure I will be in town for christmas. But if I am not, I won't be gone that entire time. Shoot me an email if you want to scan it sometime.

                        DEE
                        1997 GTP(13.3@104)-Sold<br />1999 Trans Am M6

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                        • #13
                          <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by pgriffith:



                          So if you seen the fire come out of the tailpipes when you were racing this means you lost. Sounds like the cam is working!
                          :D

                          <hr></blockquote>


                          Actually, I had already backed off when it happened, we already ran WAY into 4th gear. As he said, Kendall used to have a better chance before the cam, last night my car was running much stronger than his. Kendall, call Protech and ask Robert for the Walbro in tank pump, and about labor prices. See if he'll hook you up on a Christmas labor special.
                          <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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                          • #14
                            "Christmas Labor Special", what is that, it's twice as much since it's on a holiday? Anyways, I sent him a PM and added his name to my buddy list. If I don't talk to him by either of those I'm going to call him Monday. I want to AutoTap it before that though to see if that's really the problem.

                            Tonight though, it worked perfectly...once. It was the first time I drove the car tonight and the motor was pretty cool, like 120-140* or so. It had been running a bit so it was good and oiled up so I got on it in 3rd and it pulled hard all the way to red line, it suprised me since I thought it was going to start to bog. Later tonight though when the car was warmed up, 180-190*, it bogged bad as before and felt like when I raced Matt. So I'm guessing it's probably KR but it sure is picky about what temp it does it and doesn't.
                            1997 Nassau Blue Vette<br />1989 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 (lifted with 31\" tires)<br />2000 V6 Camaro, loud, cammed 210rwhp *SOLD*

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                            • #15
                              yeah thats KR all right cause the colder it is the less of a chance u have for premature detanation. What plugs are u using also and what gapp do u have cause u might have to go to a colder range plug
                              <b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers

                              Comment

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