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I beleive he said the rods would come with the kit but you should email him about it. the diomond racing pistons are great but i would spend a lot less money and find some used l67 pistons since they are 8.5:1 stock. if you are building an all out race motor then go with the diomonds otherwise save your money. What are you wanting out of your car?
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
Originally posted by Need4Camaro: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 97 30th RS: compression doesn't afect bore x stroke ratio.
I thought the bore x stroke ratio equalled compression. I guess I was wrong?
With a lower compression ration, why would it be pointless to turbo a 4.1L? I'm lost... wouldn't more displacement set it off better? Why do turbo's require lower compression ratio's? </font>[/QUOTE]Bore X Stroke = Cubic inches I belive.
2000 Pewter Pontiac Transam 360rwhp, 370ftlbs 1998 Sport Gold Metallic Chevrolet Camaro *SOLD* 1974 Silver Chevrolet BIG BLOCK Corvette
Originally posted by T-Punk: I beleive he said the rods would come with the kit but you should email him about it. the diomond racing pistons are great but i would spend a lot less money and find some used l67 pistons since they are 8.5:1 stock. if you are building an all out race motor then go with the diomonds otherwise save your money. What are you wanting out of your car?
I want atleast 680 RWHP and I know I'm definately going to have to beef up the drive train. Oh yea, this is a dumb question but what kind of gas milage am I going to expect and will I have to use Premium?
Originally posted by Question: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Need4Camaro: I thought the bore x stroke ratio equalled compression. I guess I was wrong?
With a lower compression ration, why would it be pointless to turbo a 4.1L? I'm lost... wouldn't more displacement set it off better? Why do turbo's require lower compression ratio's?
Bore X Stroke = Cubic inches I belive. </font>[/QUOTE]Static Compression ratio is determined by the cylinder volume at TDC over the volume at BDC, basically the combustion chamber vol. compared to the total displaced cylinder volume.
AIM: Alientr8tr<br /><a href=\"http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/583450\" target=\"_blank\">1998 Camaro 3.8L</a><br />Flowmaster 80-series, !FRA, Eibach Springs, KYB AGX, SLP sway bars, 3.42/LSD, Wings West kit, Z06 Motorsports, Silverstone Metallic paint<br /><a href=\"http://www.shift5.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Shift 5</a> - My Band
First of all, the Stroked ZZP car is driven by Zoomer's GF, Vanessa. The stroker is a great option for those who have a higher mileage engine. Youll have a rebuilt engine with 0 miles and gain more power out of it. Im still undecided about what to do with my GP, but the stroker is still up there on my list of possibilites. Only ZZP has really shown what the stroker can do, and would be great to see nonsponored people running it and what times theyve gotten. I think you should do it. If you have the 4500 then go ahead and get the forged, but if not, 385 hp to snap the crank is a lot of power to be made NA. I say go for it and have fun while doing it.
01 Grand Prix GT- 3\" DP, custom CAI, 180* Tstat<br /><br />I dont have a Fbody, but i will once im out of college...mmmm RWD L36.....
you will have to run premium no two ways about it. you probably wont want to push your car that far if you want it to be a daily driver because dependability will probably go way down. Other than that your goal might be attainable but it still seems high to me. you will need to get all top of the line components for everything and i recomend having the block bored 30 over if this is indeed a race only block. you might want to get the diomond 8.0:1 pistons (which i think would be close to 8.4:1 with the stroker) instead of the 8.5:1 so you can run more boost too. you will also have to get a turbo cam to get that kind of power out of your car and you will probably want a custom grind to get the max output from your engine. I think something similar to the gt stage three cam from zzp but with less overlap, if that is possible, would be a good choice (cams are not my strong point). Upgrade all of your valvetrain components (look over at intense they have some good options). then as you said you will definately need a built tranny (if you want an auto the raptor-700 would be a good chioce). you should really start talking to zoomer about this, he is more than happy help and is quick to email back (not to mention he knows a lot more than me).
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
Also, just as an alternative, since I'm going to have to use premium gas anyway, would it be better if I just got a regular 350 or, LT1, LS1, or LS6 engine, mod it while it's out, (I've already spent WAY to much money on my car to just turn around and sell or trade it for a Z, thats why I'm going to mod it to be faster)
If I did this could I make a 427 Stroker without turbocharging get to 650 RWHP?
The Intense turbo car is the most powerfull series 2 3800. It is putting down around 550 fwhp i think. It is running a 10.1 in the quarter. I dont know what your plans for the car is, but for a 3800 to put out 650 rwhp, it will not be streetable.
I am planning a turbo system for mine and want around 350-400 rwhp eventually and 12s. I want to be able to drive this everyday on the street.
ok if thats the kind of power you are wanting it would be much cheaper to get an lt1, ls1 or lq4 and mod it out. you wont be able to keep control of that kind of power on the street very easily though so keep that in mind.
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
2001 Arctic White Firebird With Black Drop Top<br /><br />3:42 Gears<br />Zexel LSD<br />BMR upper A-Arms<br />Trans Am exhaust with 3\" I-pipe and cutout<br />Modified intake<br />Mecham Hood<br />Trans Go shift kit<br />Making rear control arms and panhard
Whats the most streetable non-turbo power I could get with a 3.8 to 4.1L Stroker Kit? What Octane will I need? What kind of gas milage should I expect?
Whats the most streetable Turbo'd I could get with a 3.8 to 4.1L Forged Stroker Kit? What boost should I use? What Octane will I need? What kind of gas milage should I expect?
Whats the most reliable, streetable power I could get out of a LT1, LS1, LT4 with a Stroker Kit? What Octane will I need? What kind of gas milage should I expect?
Whats the most reliable, streetable power I could get out of a LT1, LS1, LT1 with a Forged Stroker Kit along with a Turbo? What's the Boost should I use? What Octane will I need? What kind of gas milage should I expect?
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
I wish you guys the best for you and your family. Good health, happiness and prosperity. Merry Christmas and a happy new year....
1 week ago
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