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  • in need of help with tuning....BAD really bad

    short of the story, track times sucked balls.
    i had the hpp3, but it was of no help. even back to stock settings i ran a 17.1
    my main concern was my shift points. i was hoping to say 3.73 "yes" and the hpp3 take care of the rest, but that wont ever happen. so i did change tire height to 24.00.
    just pulling numbers out of my arse i changed:
    1-2 +3mph
    2-3 +6mph
    3-4 +12mph
    it felt great on the street-
    at the track my launch was decent but i felt like i could never shift to 3rd and the car sounded like a machine gun till i let off the gas.
    i then changed 2-3 to -6mph/3-4 0mph and still got the same response.
    then changed 2-3 0mph and blah
    changed to stock and ran a 17.1 with spinning out of control at launch.
    as you can see i sucked! did not even hit 15s!!!
    anybody have any clues??
    as you can tell i am clueless.
    all these runs were set with 24 in tires and 3.42
    93 octane and 100% firmess 6500 rev limiter.
    anybody.......please anybody.......nino
    6s.......under the hood or under the belt, they just dont cut it.

  • #2
    fyi 100% firmness will toast your trans VERY quickly. I recomend 0%.

    what altitude, what weather conditions... what timing advance, what o2's.. what rpm did 1-2 shift occur, what rpm did 2-3 shift occur, what did you launch at? what are all your mods?

    we need details.. laid out nicely and organized please. we need all the info.. so we can determine what to adjust
    Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

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    • #3
      altitude=san anto=300 ft above sea level????
      temperature=cold= i think 60???
      all mods are on cardomain in sig.

      i will do 0% firmness from now on thanks.
      o2s are a blank-i have no autotap.
      no timing advance
      maft+ maf part is disconnected but timing was set to zero for both base and wot for all these runs

      launched at 1300 and got very little spin-but yet 2.1 was my best with 2.2 and even 2.3
      launched from 0 and spun horribly and swerved to the lt.--2.5

      where does it shift??? thats the whole problem
      i cant really say
      second came at around 20 mph is all i really know
      but third never felt like it came anywhere. when i was expecting third all i got was bah bah bah and loss of power rpms would go all the way up to 6000 and still bah bah bah. i would let go of the gas and then be able to move again.
      6s.......under the hood or under the belt, they just dont cut it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sounds like you are hitting the rev limiter well before the 6500 you plugged in.

        If you're spinning so much on take-off, then you're putting power out, just losing time and power on top end when you start bouncing off the limiter.

        Also somebody (magnus?) in another post questioned whether the timing part of the maft would work correctly without having the maf part plugged in, since the box may draw its power from the maf wiring...
        \'98 A4 Camaro v6-&gt;v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>

        Comment


        • #5
          The ICM might default to 0 degeres of timing if the IGN signal is not there.. I'm not sure if the + part of the MAF T+ will work if the MAF connections are not hooked up. The device gets power from the MAF.

          Remove HPP3 and the MAF T+ COMPLETELY!!! Run a pass.. what happens?

          You still haven't given us enough details... like 1/8th ET@MPH or 1/4 MPH. I am still left in the dark here.. and no offense but I really don't have the time to jump to your website to look at your mods.. Sorry...

          After you make a pass with all the stock stuff.. on a good 60'... look at what happened... Was 1-2 shift low? Was 2-3 shift low? Did either hit the rev limiter?

          If your ET's suck with both MAF T+ and HPP3 removed, don't add those until you diagnose the problem with the car or you're just adding more variables in..

          autotap... borrow it, buy it.. whatever you can.. watch RPM, Timing advance, KR, o2's,

          If you DO run a good ET with the devices removed, well then the devices are causing you problems.. you're not using them correctly..

          MAF T+ is a pretty good product, just needs more info than just a recomendation on the net.. you need a scan tool..

          lets go from here.. step by step..and then we can see where you or your car is going wrong..
          Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP

          Comment


          • #6
            <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Magnus:
            autotap... borrow it, buy it.. whatever you can.. watch RPM, Timing advance, KR, o2's,<hr></blockquote>

            nino...

            i should have a-tap soon. i'll let you borrow it during some passes if we meet up sometime...
            2000 NBM M6 Camaro Z28<br />323/335

            Comment


            • #7
              arrrrgggghhhh!!!!!
              i am a freaking moron.
              there i was- messing with things i should not have.


              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr> Remove HPP3 and the MAF T+ COMPLETELY!!! Run a pass.. what happens? <hr></blockquote>
              i will do this next time i go to the track
              with the maf part disconnected and the programmer set to stock, the car ran good, but i had too much spin.

              i have no accurate ETs or mph cause when the car started to sound like a machine gun (where it felt like -to me- that it just would not shift!) i would let off the gas and just cruise.

              still my 60' are acurrate but crappy. 2.1 2.2 2.3 this is with bfg drags....i attribute these to the fact that i suck on the track.

              mods-i have a crapload. they are nicely put on page in the page in my sig.

              what i have done know is set the programmer for 24 in height tires and let alone the shift points. on the street it seems to be better, but i need to try some more 1/4 mile acclerations from a dead stop, to mimic track conditions.

              i am going to try and clean the maft+ connections and reconnect the maf part. i am just SO scared to get that 5000 rpm mess again.

              more updates when i have them...thanks
              6s.......under the hood or under the belt, they just dont cut it.

              Comment

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