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the other night i was at the races and raced some guy just like any other time but when the race ended my car died instantly and made a noise kind of like a bycicle chain coming off. the car cranks over(really fast) but does not start.
any help would be appreciated asap because this is my only car.
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6: when the race ended my car died instantly and made a noise kind of like a bycicle chain coming off. the car cranks over(really fast) but does not start.<hr></blockquote>
Cranking really fast? Sounds like no compression.
To have no compression come on suddenly like that, something must have let go somewhere in the engine.
Maybe only the timing chain. How many miles on your '95? If it broke, that would let some of the valves stay open, which would let the engine turn over fast. If this is what happened, you may only need a timing chain and gears. But if a piston hit a valve, you may have some bent valves.
Were you spraying? If you went lean, the tops of some pistons may have let go... That would let it crank over fast.
i disassembled the front of the motor this morning down to the timing chain because i also thought that's what the problem was, when i got to the chain both the sprockets and chain looked absolutely fine. i was spraying but if the top of a piston gave out wouldn't it still run(maybe crappy but it would still run right?). their were no metal particles in my oil pan.
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
oh yeah, the car just clicked over 106000 miles.
thanks.
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6: both the sprockets and chain looked absolutely fine. i was spraying ...there were no metal particles in my oil pan.<hr></blockquote>
hmmm....
?????
I guess start by narrowing it down.
Sometimes if there is no spark, or no fuel, it will crank faster than normal too. It cranks Really Really fast if there is no compression.
The sound you described is not giving me any help...
The mileage is not bad, timing chain should still be good, which you saw in the teardown so far.
You could compression check each cylinder, except getting to the spark plug holes is such a pain... That would tell you if it is one or more cylinders, and if it even is a compression related problem.
Fuel pump? Check for pressure at the schrader valve after you turn the key on. Use a rag though...
Spark? Got an old plug laying around? Check for spark with the closest/easiest wire, put the old plug in the end, make sure the plug is grounded, and watch it while you try to start the engine.
You're right, if you holed one piston, it would probably still start, would just miss really bad.
Pull the ign and inj fuses... pull all plugs.. have a buddy crank and put your finger over the plug holes.. any blow/suck not so good? If so that cyl has compression issues.
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
i've pulled all the sparklers' out and 3 out of 6 electrodes are smashed. they all have metal specs on them near the base. this means that the pistons are shot and the motor has to be rebuilt.
what are some options that you guys would do.
Xnenon headlight conversion<br />k&n cold air induction<br />85 shot of nitrous (NOS)<br />255 lph walbro fuel pump<br />80 series flowmaster<br />z rated 255/50\'s<br />misc. auto meter tach and a-pillar
wow, I saw a 502 ci Ramjet engine (500+ hp, 500+ ft. lbs) for like $7k in a GM performance parts catalog. The catalog also had 3.4s in it. The 3.4L is a lot less (less than $1K I believe) in the catalog. You might want to look into it. You could get your car running great again for less than $2k probably.
[ December 23, 2002: Message edited by: Camarorulz ]</p>
-Eric<br />2002 Navy Blue Camaro...Striped and Stalled. 35th Anniversary SS wheels <br />Best ET: 15.384 @ 88.32 on street tires<br />Project Whitney: Goal, 14.0 1/4 by summer 2008.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6: i've pulled all the sparklers' out and 3 out of 6 electrodes are smashed. they all have metal specs on them near the base. this means that the pistons are shot and the motor has to be rebuilt.
what are some options that you guys would do.<hr></blockquote>
I keep hearing that you can get an engine, or even an engine and transmission combo for like $500. Haven't priced 'em myself yet. If that's the case, it might be easier to just pop another one in there, instead of trying to fix everything that might be wrong with yours... (heads, valves, cylinder bores, bearings, etc., etc.)
Or you could finance a friggin house for that much!
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<hr></blockquote>
WHOA! I would love to have that in my car! Be the sleeper of everyones worst nightmare!
565hp 575tq OUCH! $23,300 if I won 25k in some kind of loto this is what I would have to waste my money on!.
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