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Has any cut a hole on the rear deck to make the fuel pump switch easier? I am putting a new one in next week or so. Just wondering if anyone has done this??
Also, on the Walbro pump, what exactly is different on it. What do i need to do to make it fit/work? I did a search and I found a good guide from magnus, but i am still a little fuzzy on it.
[ January 06, 2003: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]</p>
1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
1997 Dodge Viper GTS
I have seen it done in pictures and i think that is how i am gonna do my fuel pump as well cuts the time in half
<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
i'm not to keen on cutting up the body... :eek: be careful not to cut too deep into the fuel tank... it's risky.. cause then you have to put the plate BACK and make sure it holds in place.
When you remove the stock pump its failry obvious what needs to be done.. pop open the lid from the stock plastic container like thing and check out how the stock fuel pump sits.. if you re use the stock plastic setup, you'll see that the walbro is shorter and you have to cut out the bottom of the plastic so the sock can extend out... thats what I did... or you can just ditch the plastic thing all together like some people and use the metal band straps and strap it to the fuel pump arm.
i re-used the plastic casing cause it mounts up eaily.. I just cout a mouth like hole out of it... sock extends easily to both sides
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
perhaps half an inch to an inch.. definately not much.
It's not THAT hard to drop the tank, hardest part is bending fuel filler neck to allow the tank to wiggle out. Requires finess with a touch of phsychotic rage.
Keith - Chicago<br /><a href=\"http://www.hptuners.com\" target=\"_blank\">HP Tuners - PCM Reprogramming</a><br /><a href=\"http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/\" target=\"_blank\">97 Firebird V6 to LS1 swap</a><br /><b>V8 9.967@132.78</b> 1.322 60\' NA Heads/Cam<br /><b>V8 10.295@128.48</b> 1.363 60\' NA Cam Only<br /><b>V8 10.987@119.31</b> 1.422 60\' NA Stock Internals<br /><b>V6 13.674@98.22</b> NA<br /><b>V6 12.394@104.91</b> N20 100HP
I've owned 3 F-bodiy's now and there is no way you could convince me to hack into the unibody to get to the fuel pump.
If the tank is full of fuel, the easy way is just to drop the muffler like Magnus said, then when its out, pump all the fuel into an approved container (or containers) then it'll be empty and easy to lift back into place.
Kelly \'GhoSSt\' Rosato<br />1996 Impala SS, 385ci LT4, 52mm TB, Quad1 headers, !Cats, !EGR, !AIR, Hooker Catback, SLP TC, UK3, UL0, GM CD changer, Onstar®, Homelink® Remote, lots of Fleetwood, Denali & 9C1 Stuff.<br />1998 Z28 Convertable (stock at the moment)<br />1993 Caprice 9C1, 406ci MPFI, overhead console, 8-way Riviera seats, DVD, CD Changer, etc..<br />1977 Volvo w/ 3.8l V6 from a 1998 Firebird
Definitely use an air nibbler, not a torch, to cut the access port. Good luck ... some of the rice burners, ie. Mazdas, have an access port to service intank fuel pumps without dropping the tank.
You can achieve anything for which you are prepared to pay the price.<br /> --ATTILA THE HUN
Cut a whole in the back of my 92 Firebird a while back. Used an air chisel and just cut out a hole under the carpet. Took a hack saw to all the fuel lines, 4 total. Then used high pressure hoses and high pressure clamps when I put it all back together. Used a pice of sheet metal and 6 screws and silicon to seal up the hole in the hatch, then folded the carpet back and boom. Even with the time it took to cut the hole and lines and everything, it was still quicker. The first time I replaced the pump in the 92 Bird, it took 6 hours, had to drop the muffler and still didnt have enough room to dop th tank so I had to remove the exhaust from the cat and on. Had trouble fighting with the neck on the tank, and finally got it, vowed never to do it that way again. So the next time, about 40K miles later, I started cutting. And it was alot easier, only took a couple hours, and that with including the time driving to the store to get the clamps and hoses for the lines I cut. That's all.
[ January 07, 2003: Message edited by: silvachris1 ]</p>
I did the same as silvachris1, it was hella easy. Just cut a flap so you can fold the metal back down, four compression fittings to attach the lines back together. If you like to do it the hard way, drop the tank.
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
Just ordered some Toyo 315/35/17 tires for my 17x11 rims. Hopefully I can get them on the beginning of next year. Will post pics.
5 days ago
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