You gotta be brave to hack on your throttle body like this...

[John_D.]

There might be other adjectives that come to mind to describe it too... [img]smile.gif[/img]

Pictures of the whole ordeal at
http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10

I had a small hole in the tb, by the maf sensor, where I cut through last year when I ported it. The patch job held up well, until I started spraying a big nitrous shot through it, and the cold temps made the patch crumble...

Since I was looking at a new tb anyway, I decided what the heck, let's cut the front off the tb, and get a straight shot to the air filter lid. (I have the '98 with the angled tb)

So, several hours later, of cutting and grinding it works again! Besides having to cut the tb off, there was a bunch of stuff sticking out, on the outside, preventing me from getting any tubing up over it, so I had to cut all that off and smooth it out.

And fabricating the reducers and angles to tie into the tb. It's still not a straight shot, and the lid outlet is a 4" oval, compared to a 3" inlet on the tb. So there was some work involved in getting everything connected. And I had to clearance one place on the radiator support.

Oh yeah, and fabricating a new mounting point for the maf sensor...

And the maf screen can still be used. (I will probably pick up another one, my idle is a little rough still. The old screen got sucked up in the tb and broken when it froze over on a big nitrous shot.)

All in all, not a bad advanced mod. (Magnus, this takes our tb porting exercises to a whole new level!)

[Jason McCallister]

[img]graemlins/omg.gif[/img] I didn't think you would do it! :eek: Any problems with incorrect MAF readings with the MAF mounted in it's new location?

I hope this works out for you! ;)

Off Topic P.S. - Do you have any pics of those Mille Miglia wheels on your car? If so, could you email them to me? Thanks!

[John_D.]

I took it for a test drive about 11:30 last night, and it seemed "ok", but nothing technical at that point.

Today I autotapped it, and it was running lean at wot. So the first thing I did, was take the wot setting down from 10% lean to the zero setting. Still ran lean...

Checked the ltrims, and they had gone from -10 to +10.

Took the base to +5, wot to +4. Was still lean, but ltrims had come in to around 5, so it was better.

Since I don't like tinkering with the base, I took the base back to zero, and wot to +12. Still lean...

Best so far is +5 base, wot +8. Still tweaking...

Another option, would be to start opening up the equivalent of the metering plate on the back of the sensor, to get more air to flow over the wires, then it would richer on it's own. Only thing is, since it's all one molded plastic piece, it's not easily reversible...

That's what everyone does when they port the original one by removing the bottom half of the post. (remove the metering plate that is.)

I'll have to think about the next step. I'd rather be able to leave the base at zero, if possible.

Oh yeah, I sent you 3 views of the wheels on the car... [img]smile.gif[/img]

[malloynx#2]

john.. the zzp mini-afc might be the ticket for you..

you can make 1% changes all the way up to 225%..

it's far better than the maft+, it's also more consistent and it's only 100 bucks..

[John_D.]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by malloynx#2:
john.. the zzp mini-afc might be the ticket for you..

you can make 1% changes all the way up to 225%..

it's far better than the maft+, it's also more consistent and it's only 100 bucks..<hr></blockquote>

I might ought to look into that... It's cheaper than another maf sensor... [img]smile.gif[/img]

Plus I like the sound of the 1% increments. Considering that the base setting on the maft is by 5's.