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  • break in oil

    just wondering what type of oil is suggested for the initial engine break in. I know that you gotta lube everything like the cam before you crank it. I know that you shouldnt run synthetic for the first few thousand (or 500 miles at least) until the motor breaks in but i've also heard somewhere that you should run a non detergent oil instead of a standard regular oil. so whats the verdict? regular standard oil or try to find non-detergent standard oil? also, i cant really find any non detergent oil except some cheap coastal stuff. If i'm going to spend all this money on this motor, i dont wanna wipe it out as soon as i start it up... thanks for all the help..

    Phill
    Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"

  • #2
    I have always heard to use regular dino oil. I am curious though as to why using synthetic is so bad for initial engine break in?

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    • #3
      i forget where i heard it from but i've repeatedly heard that synthetic is no good to break a motor in with. Course, this is my first total engine rebuild so i'm not speaking from experience. What do you mean by dino oil? natural oil?
      Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"

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      • #4
        ya regular oil from the ground.

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        • #5
          dino oil... natural oil... such as oil made from decomposed organic matter, the dinasour from the flintstones was named dino.. .thus the name dino oil

          however my geology major roomate informed me that most of the oil was actually made from decayed plant matter not animals or dinasours (if you were interested in that random fact)
          -Aaron, AKA ATL2001<br />93 3.4L <br /><a href=\"http://www.ilfba.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.ilfba.com</a>

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          • #6
            lol.. well i thank you for the info.. i knew it was organic in nature, but was uncertain of the exact composition.
            but anyways, anyone know bout this detergent, non detergent question at hand?
            Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"

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            • #7
              use the detergent oil..it's what comes in every car made almost..as opposed to some "coastal stuff that you don't know anything about"..i have 2 friends that both work at machine shops..they swear by Valvoline..and Havoline is a close second...do not use Pennzoil..alot of sludge in your motor
              98 bird Y87 SLP cai Msd Super Conducters Msd coils Splitfire Triple Platinums big bad Corvette servo

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              • #8
                Use SAE 30 to break the motor in. On the cam make sure you put that cam break in lube on very liberally, and run it at 2500 for 30 minutes, otherwise you will have some flat lobes on the cam right off the bat.
                <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                • #9
                  sweet.. thats exactly what i was looking for.. as far as teh cam break in, the kit i got came with dual valve springs. should i really only install just the outer spring until the cam is broken in or can i put both on right off the bat. I'd really like to not have to tear it all apart once its together just to do this...
                  Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by camaroman1181:
                    sweet.. thats exactly what i was looking for.. as far as teh cam break in, the kit i got came with dual valve springs. should i really only install just the outer spring until the cam is broken in or can i put both on right off the bat. I'd really like to not have to tear it all apart once its together just to do this...
                    It would probably be a good idea. If they are 120+ lbs on the seat, its a must do, if its lower you may get away with it but it'd be safer to do it w/the inners out.
                    <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                    • #11
                      thats what i was afraid of.. you think i'd be able to break this thing in on a dyno? i mean, would they let me run it for half an hour at part throttle? or is there some other way i could do this that would allow me to not have to swap springs once the motor is in the car?
                      Phill<br /><br />95 camaro... need money for turbo project... <br />94 S10 Blazer - winter beater - infinity system to be installed soon<br /><br />\"The man who says it cant be done should not interrupt the man doing it...\"

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by camaroman1181:
                        thats what i was afraid of.. you think i'd be able to break this thing in on a dyno? i mean, would they let me run it for half an hour at part throttle? or is there some other way i could do this that would allow me to not have to swap springs once the motor is in the car?
                        If they have the right bellhousings to bolt up to your motor you can probably do it on a dyno but otherwise you'd have to do it in the car. Its a PITA but very well worth it.
                        <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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                        • #13
                          You should check with the cam manufacturer about cam break in. The Comp cam that I installed in my car required a 20 minute break in with RPM varying between 1500 and 2500 every few minutes.

                          While you are asking about that, check to see what they say about the springs you have, maybe they will stand behind their cam being broken in on those springs.

                          - Justin
                          <a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org\" target=\"_blank\">New Jersey F-Body Owners Association</a><br />1987 Camaro LT - 400sbc, Aluminum L98\'s w/valve job, Comp XE 274, Q-Junk 750, 3.23 posi, 4.10\'s soon.<br /><br /><a href=\"http://www.njfboa.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=11\" target=\"_blank\">East Coast F-Body Nationals - August 14, 2005</a>

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                          • #14
                            On a roller cam you don't need to break it in.
                            Just lube the lobes and let it idle until you get oil pressure and it warms up a bit, then rev it a bit (no to high) to make sure everything is ok, and go driving.

                            FYI, You dont break in an engine on synthetic because it won't let the motor wear enough to wear in.
                            Regular oil will let the engine naturally file down any burs or irregularities on the bearings etc to a reasonable level.
                            1997 Chevrolet Camaro v6 - 13.8@104MPH
                            1997 Dodge Viper GTS

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by AZ3.8Camaro:
                              On a roller cam you don't need to break it in.
                              Just lube the lobes and let it idle until you get oil pressure and it warms up a bit, then rev it a bit (no to high) to make sure everything is ok, and go driving.

                              FYI, You dont break in an engine on synthetic because it won't let the motor wear enough to wear in.
                              Regular oil will let the engine naturally file down any burs or irregularities on the bearings etc to a reasonable level.
                              Hes got a rebuilt 3.4 with a regular hydraulic cam.
                              <b>Black</b> 1998 Pontiac <i>Firebird</i> A-4 swap<br />271.4rwhp/259.4rwtq NA<br />13.30@102.44 <br /><a href=\"http://www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98\" target=\"_blank\">www.freewebs.com/wickedsix98</a>

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