The Heads and Cam Bible.

[AZ3.8Camaro]

First, are you ready for a cam?
Other supporting mods should be done first. Here is a brief list of things I recommend doing FIRST.
Intake, headers, cat, catback, gears, good plugs/wires, suspension, clutch, limited slip, driveshaft, shifter, etc. These aren't mandatory, but will help you a lot and offer
you smaller challenges before taking on a cam install.

HONESTLY - If you can't do the cam install your self, I don't think it is worth it. Your car will need a lot more attention after the cam install, and it will cost thousands in shop time.

Start Here - HowStuffWorks.com
Then read this - Basic Terminology
Then read ALL of this - Comp Camps Timing Tutorial


Then try this. Type in "which cam." If you find something you like, search specifically for it. If you need help understanding something, go ahead and post your questions.

Try looking at existing cams, that are pre-selected for you.
Check out the lists below. There are TONS!

If you still need help. Search ONE last time.
Then, if you still need help.
Post a question. Use specifics, it shows that you have put forth some effort.

Which cam is best for me posts without specifics will be locked and deleted.

In the lists below, if you are asking about a certain cam, please refer to it by its manufacturer, name and specs. You should just copy and paste the cam you want to ask about into your post.

Question about costs?
See the Part Numbers sticky.
I kind of explains what you need to put in a cam. Look up the part numbers on GMPartsdirect.com for prices.
Labor -
Heads and Cam installed yourself about
$2000 with parts
Heads and Cam shop installed about $3000 with parts.
For just a cam, subract $750-$1000 from the total.

NOTE - Read this BEFORE buying or replacing valve springs!!!

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Cam Bible

MASTER CAM LIST
In order from lowest to highest intake duration.
Generally, in order by higher powerband, less streetability as you go up.
Legend to NA Cams...
(M) - Relatively mild. Decent power gains, good streetability.
(SS) - Street/Strip, good power gains, fairly lopey, less streetable, may throw codes.
(R) - Racing or stroker use. Great peaky power, poor streetability.

Normally Aspirated Camshafts

Description Duration @ .050" Lobe Lift L.S.A. Centerline

• Stock L36/L26: 182/192 .258/.258 N/A N/A *(M)
• CompCams 76-800-9: 192/200 .300/.310 110 N/A *(M)
• CompCams 76-801-9: 200/206 .310/.300 112 N/A *(M)
• Grand Prix Store L36: 206/212 .320/.325 113 110 *(SS)
• ZZP GT1: 210/210 .317/.317 113 N/A *(SS)
• Super Six L36: 210/214 .281/.281 112 N/A *(SS)
• Abbott Racing NA Cam: 210/220 .320/.320 112 (SS)
• INTENSE Stage 1 N/A: 212/204 .322/.298 113 109 *(SS)
• INTENSE Stage 1X N/A: 212/216 .327/.321 113 109 *(SS)
• ZZP GT2: 216/216 .317/.317 111 N/A *(SS)
• INTENSE Stage 2 N/A: 222/224 .337/.327 112 108 *(R)
• INTENSE Stage 3 N/A: 222/230 .339/.331 110 106 *(R)
• ZZP GT3: 224/224 .335/.335 113 N/A *(R)

Power Adder Camshafts

Description Duration @ .050" Lobe Lift L.S.A. Centerline

• Stock L67/L32: 182/192 .258/.258 115 N/A
• GPS L67 Cam 1: 200/212 .315/.325 115 N/A
• Stattama ST1: 206/206 .320/.320 111 N/A
• ZZP VS: 206/216 .315/.315 115 N/A
• ZZP HL/GPS L67 Cam 2: 206/218 .320/.330 115 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 1 Blower: 209/204 .305/.298 113 108
• CompCams 76-802-9: 210/220 .320/.320 115 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 1X Turbo: 211/204 .323/.320 116 110
• INTENSE Stage 1X Blower: 210/221 .321/.329 115 111
• Stattama ST2: 212/212 .325/.325 112 N/A
• ZZP XP: 212/224 .325/.335 116 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 2 Turbo: 214/206 .331/.320 116 110
• INTENSE Stage 2 Blower: 214/222 .332/.338 115 111
• ZZP XPZ: 217/225 .352/.333 116 N/A
• Stattama ST3: 218/212 .330/.325 113 N/A
• Stattama SS4: 218/230 .330/.340 116 N/A
• Abbott Racing FI cam: 220/220 .320/.320 114
• IPS Stage 5/ZZP NIC: 220/230 .317/.317 112 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 3 Nitrous/Blower: 220/232 .337/.351 116 112
• Thrasher Race: 222/222 .354/.354 114 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 3 Blower: 222/228 .338/.344 115 111
• INTENSE Stage 3 Turbo: 223/214 .338/.332 116 110
• Stattama ST4: 224/218 .335/.330 116 N/A
• Stattama SS6: 224/242 .335/.360 118 N/A
• INTENSE Stage 4 Turbo: 226/218 .343/.346 116 110
• INTENSE Stage 4 Blower: 235/238 .375/.376 116 112

Taken from http://www.3800pro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4562

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Heads Bible

Head Flow List (at 28" H2O)

Stock Heads
Lift---Intake Flow---Exhaust Flow
.100--- 55 --- 45.3
.200--- 114 --- 98.2
.300--- 156 --- 132.1
.400--- 177.5 --- 145.5
.500--- 185.9 --- 148.1
.550--- 186.6 --- 151.6
.600--- 188.9 --- 152.6

Abbot Racing Heads
Lift---Intake Flow---Exhaust Flow
.100--- 62 --- 52
.200--- 128 --- 107.6
.300--- 185.9 --- 154.9
.400--- 213 --- 166.9
.500--- 225.8 --- 173.4
.550--- 230 --- 176.6
.600--- 232.5 --- 178.2

Super Six Motorsports Heads
Lift---Intake Flow---Exhaust Flow
.100--- 64.4 --- 55.3
.200--- 123.9 --- 115.6
.300--- 170.5 --- 160.4
.400--- 202.3 --- 186
.500--- 220.1 --- 193
.550--- 226.2 --- 194.4
.600--- 230 --- 196


Intense Stage 3 Heads
Lift---Intake Flow---Exhaust Flow
.100--- 69 --- 60
.200--- 127 --- 117
.300--- 175 --- 172
.400--- 208 --- 199
.500--- 224 --- 212
.550--- ---
.600--- 235 --- 222

Data taken from FuryCharger's post...
I highly recommend reading this before you buy heads.

[ November 22, 2005, 02:48 AM: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Valvetrain Bible

Now you will need to get some valve springs, retainers, lifters, and pushrods.

Valve springs are very important. But the retainers are paramount to the whole setup working properly. The stock valve spring has an install height of 1.72". Any other performance valve spring, including LS1 and LS6 springs, and the comp cams line of springs use an install height of 1.80." The retainers are DIFFERENT. Don't let anyone else tell you that this is not the case, or that it doesn't matter.

Here is picture to PROVE the difference! The stock v6 retainer is on the left, the ls1 style retainer is on the right.

Here is the post where we figured this out. You must use LS1 style retainers with any other spring other than stock, unless the are sold with different retainers. If you don't you may break a valve spring, and your timing chain damper will be ground down into oblivion.

For your research,
Here is an article of most of the different valve springs.
Here is a thread regarding the topic. Very good read.

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Heads/Cam Install Guide

Cam/Heads Swap Guide

Tools needed:
Basic hand tools – Hammers, screwdrivers (all sizes), etc.
Metric sockets, extensions and wrenches. Deep and shallow will help. Ratcheting wrenches will help greatly. ¼” drive, 3/8” drive and ½ drive preferable.
A ½” impact gun, with larger sized deep sockets. Breaker bar can be used, but impact is much easier.
A Harmonic balancer pulley removal tool. This can be rented from auto parts store if you don’t have one.
Fuel Line disconnect tool. This can be rented as well.
Torx bits

Preperation:
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the coolant – Pull the lower hose from the radiator and let it drain. Then pull out the passenger side knock sensor and let it drain the block. If you skip the part, prepare to be soaked in coolant later on.
Remove both radiator hoses.
Remove the intake from the throttle body to the filter.
Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley. – Don’t take them out yet.
Remove the bolt from the harmonic balancer. –Blast it with the impact gun and you’re done in no time. Or fight with a breaker bar and 10 ft of piping used as a cheater bar.
Remove the belt.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the harmonic balance pulley. –You did get the harmonic balancer puller didn’t you?
Drain the fuel rail. – Remove the cap from the valve on the fuel line, use a Schrader valve core puller tool to remove the valve core, or just press down on it with a small screwdriver, etc. Have a rag wrapped around the rail so fuel doesn’t spray everywhere.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail.
Drain the oil.

Basic Disassembly:
Remove the alternator.
Remove the EGR system, brackets and tubes.
Remove the spark plug wires.
Remove the spark plugs.
Unplug the wiring harness from the throttle body.
Remove the coil packs and unbolt the wiring harness from ICM.
Unplug the injectors from the harness.
Remove the fuel rail.
Remove the coil pack mounting rail.
Remove the black bracket on passenger size over the valve cover.
Remove heater coolant hoses from top passenger side of front cover. The gray plastic covers turn to remove the hoses.
Remove the valve covers.
Remove the rocker arms. -Mark or set them in a way that they can be put back on the same place.
Remove the rocker arm pedestals.
Remove the pushrods. -Mark or set them in a way that they can be put back on the same place.
Remove the upper intake manifold (plenum). -Note the location of the o-rings, etc. Don’t forget, maybe draw it or take a picture.
Remove the lower intake manifold. -There are two bolts inside, driver rear and passenger front. NOTE - There is a black plastic tube under the front of the lower intake manifold that connects to the front cover, it is hard to see and easy to break. Unbolt the manifold and make sure it is loose, then grab it by the back by the firewall and rotate it towards the front of the car (essentially flipping it over almost). When it’s about upside down, you can pull gently towards the front of the car to remove it. Many have broken this part.
Remove the lifter guides. – Careful they are plastic.
Remove the lifters. -Mark or set them in a way that they can be put back on the same place.
Remove the exhaust manifolds/headers.
Remove the cylinder heads. Do not pry on the mating surface to separate the two. Be careful.
Unplug all wires still connected to the front cover (crank pickup, cam pickup, etc.)
Remove crank sensor pickup and plastic brackets.
Remove the front cover. –You drained the coolant and oil right?
Put the crank bolt back in, line up the dots on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket.
Remove the crank bolt.
Remove the timing chain damper.
Remove the bolt from the cam sprocket.
Remove the cam sprocket/crank sprocket/timing chain all together.
Remove the cam gear that runs the balancer shaft.
Remove the plate covering the cam. –Be very careful with the bolts.
Remove the fans from the radiator. –I have heard you don’t have to, but it gives you a lot more space to get the cam out.
Remove the cam. – Be very careful. Pull it STRAIGHT out. Don’t pull very hard at all, and don’t wiggle it. You can rotate it back and forth slightly to help get it out. If you damage a bearing your motor is destroyed. Be very careful.

Congrats! You are done disassembling the motor for a heads/cam swap.
More on assembly coming soon!

Basic list based on Magnus' original cam swap guide. I added things, and reordered some things.

[creepingdeathchevy1225]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

i agree 100 percent

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Re: The Heads and Cam Bible.

Im so glad!

[antmcg79]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

First, are you ready for a cam?
Other supporting mods should be done first. Here is a brief list of things I recommend doing FIRST.
Intake, headers, cat, catback, gears, good plugs/wires, suspension, clutch, limited slip, driveshaft, shifter, etc. These aren't mandatory, but will help you a lot and offer
you smaller challenges before taking on a cam install.

HONESTLY - If you can't do the cam install your self, I don't think it is worth it. Your car will need a lot more attention after the cam install, and it will cost thousands in shop time.

Start Here - HowStuffWorks.com
Then read this - Basic Terminology
Then read ALL of this - Comp Camps Timing Tutorial


Then try this. Type in "which cam." If you find something you like, search specifically for it. If you need help understanding something, go ahead and post your questions.

Try looking at existing cams, that are pre-selected for you.
Check out the lists below. There are TONS!

If you still need help. Search ONE last time.
Then, if you still need help.
Post a question. Use specifics, it shows that you have put forth some effort.

Which cam is best for me posts without specifics will be locked and deleted.

In the lists below, if you are asking about a certain cam, please refer to it by its manufacturer, name and specs. You should just copy and paste the cam you want to ask about into your post.

Question about costs?
See the Part Numbers sticky.
I kind of explains what you need to put in a cam. Look up the part numbers on GMPartsdirect.com for prices.
Labor -
Heads and Cam installed yourself about
$2000 with parts
Heads and Cam shop installed about $3000 with parts.
For just a cam, subract $750-$1000 from the total.

NOTE - Read this BEFORE buying or replacing valve springs!!!

I'm considering doing a complete Head/Manifold/Cam swap from my OE to Abbott Parts.

I'm just wondering what you meant when you said

"HONESTLY - If you can't do the cam install your self, I don't think it is worth it. Your car will need a lot more attention after the cam install, and it will cost thousands in shop time."

What additional attention? I've read thru the stickies, and cant seem to find what you were referring to...

[caspernicus]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

tuning and fuel delivery.

You'll need to buy tuning software or find someone close to you
that has it. Injectors will also need to be upgraded and a better
fuel pump would be a good investment.

hope that helped a little.

[DeuceX]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

Where is the reinstallation guide? >.>

[boonders]

Re: The Heads and Cam Bible.

Is this link busted? I got an error...

Data taken from FuryCharger's post...
I highly recommend reading this before you buy heads.

[IDoVoodoo]

Re: The Heads and Cam Bible.

link is dead but it's also in the stickies:

"Cylinder Head Research Complete for 3800!"

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

Where is the reinstallation guide? >.>

Haha, read it from the bottom up, with your Haynes (etc) manual for torque specs.
I don't have the time or desire to make one!

[Timwiltshire]

Re: Heads and Cam FAQ

tuning and fuel delivery.

You'll need to buy tuning software or find someone close to you
that has it. Injectors will also need to be upgraded and a better
fuel pump would be a good investment.

hope that helped a little.

So in total for the cam, after you've done all the upgrades he suggested above, you also need better injectors, and software for it... How much does this stuff cost? And is the tuning software something a regular dude can do at home?

[ssms5411]

Re: The Heads and Cam Bible.

If you get Hptuners and read the guides that are posted, you would get the hang of it pretty quick. Real easy to use. Once you start using it , you'll understand it. There is also a help section on it, that will tell you what the section you are in and what it does. I still use it and I have had it for 4 years. I always find something to mess with.