thinking about buying the stroker

[Yaba3800]

well imthinking about buying the stroker motor 4.1l for sale. he thinks a rod bearing is bad. hos much will this cost to replace? also would i be as fast as an lt1 z? i figure it should spank an lt1 z. do you guys have any knowledgable opinions? thanks

ZZP 4.1 stroker kit
Hypereutectic recessed head pistons
Molly rings
ZZP high oil volume kit
Magnafluxed block with balance shaft removed and oil feed hole plugged
ARP main stud kit
ZZP stage 2 Port and Polished heads with upgraded 130# springs
Comp OER lifters
Comp Cam rods
Comp Cam GT3 cam
Harland Sharp roller rockers
Port and Polished upper and lower intake manifolds
Pacesetter Headers
Intense stage 3 computer
TCI 3000 stall converter
Rebuilt street/strip trans
Clevite bearings
Victor Reinz gaskets

Also:
Would I need to make any fuel system upgrades if I swapped from a 3.8 to the 4.1 stroker?

[ November 15, 2005, 03:07 AM: Message edited by: AZ3.8Camaro ]

[Yaba3800]

also how is it possible to remove the balance shaft?

[AZ3.8Camaro]

I added your other question for you. I can answer all of the questions for you when I have a few minutes, in the mean time, here is a little bump.
Thanks

[Yaba3800]

thanks

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Ok anyhow, replacing a crank or rod bearing can be cheap if you do the work yourself.
I have no idea how much it is in a shop because I don't use shops.
You can run into problems if the crank gets scored, or if the rods need to be rebored. Especially on the offset ground stroker crank.

The balance shaft simple spins just like the cam and works like a counterbalance for the natural shaking of the 90* v6s. You can simply remove it and plug the holes it leaves in the block, or just take the gear off of it so it doesn't run. The engine will shake more, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

For fuel, you will need a tune for sure. I think stock injectors should handle that, with a tune. If you are on a stock fuel pump, you might go ahead and put something better in, like a walbro, but you don't need to.

Should be a fairly quick motor, just be aware than you can't run forced induction or nitrous on it. I wouldn't rev it up much higher than 6000rpm either.

[Yaba3800]

awesome you answered alot of my questions thanks!!!! what kinda power should i be expecting?

[Yaba3800]

az could you please explain why in your head/cam sticky you stated that the gt3 was not streetable. what problems does it cause? also what prevents me from revving over 6000 rpm's? is that where the power band is? the previous owner has it tuned for 6750-7000 rpm rev limiters or something. could that cause internal damage? also what kind of rpm range will my power be in? thanks a lot az your a great moderator

[AZ3.8Camaro]

It should be streetable on a stroker. It says race/stroker use only.

A general rule of thumb for cams its that larger displacement motors can handle a little more cam duration before getting to lopey.
The Gt3 cam will probably run about like mine and matts does in that stroker. Check the exhaust sound clips post for a clip.

I would consider my car fully streetable, but others may not. It never dies, stalls or anything. It shakes the car from loping a little bit, its a little bit rough when its dead cold in the winter on startup, but it always starts and runs.

The only thing actually preventing you stock from revving past 6000 is the rev limiter.. [img]smile.gif[/img]
I would not do it on a stock valvetrain because the valve springs will tend to float (ie become unstable) at higher rpms. Not to mention the stock cam peaks and comes down before 6000rpm anyways.Look at this little chart I made.
A bigger cam puts your powerband higher, and good valvesprings/lifters/pushrods ensure that your car will run properly in that range.

On a stroker motor, revving too much higher than stock is a bad idea. Forged cranks are another story, but the ZZP stroker is an offset ground crank; meaning it is a stock crank, that has been reworked to obtain more stroke. It is actually weaker than the stock crank. I would put the rev limiter NO HIGHER than 6500, but probably at 6000-6250. Do not use nitrous or a turbo/blower with it at all.

Do you know what compression ratio the assembly has? Depending on that, I would say 300 crank HP is not too far off, if compression is around 10-10.5:1 with those mods.

[Yaba3800]

i dont know the compression ratio. also thanks again for t he information. is there any damage that could have been caused by him shifting it at 6750-7000 rpms? thanks

i also mean t to add that is has 130# springs

[AZ3.8Camaro]

Probably no damage. If a crank is damaged, it usually breaks, and takes the block, rods, heads, and pistons with it.

I would really like to know how he spun a bearing in it though.

[Yaba3800]

he said that zzp sent him the wrong size, so he measured them himself and put some in local. and hes either screwing me over or he measured wrong like he thinks

[mrbako]

also....i would be worried that the motor may not have a double timing chain !tensioner. with 130# springs the stocker is past it's limit. it may have a decent one though since you said that the balance shaft has been removed.

[AZ3.8Camaro]

ZZP sent him the wrong bearing size?
I believe that.
Put some in locally?
I dunno...

If he put some bearings in from a local shop, he still should have got them right bearings.

I would say not to buy it from this guy. If its an offset ground crank, with a spun bearing, you will probably have to turn the crank, further weakening it. Plus he seems like he doesn't know **** about engine building.

[Yaba3800]

well az, ive already boughten the motor. its shipping tommorow. so before i bought this i talked to my auto teacher, and he said not to buy it unless i would be willing to replace the crank. which i am if necessary. the crank will be 6-700 dollars from zzp. roughly half of their stroker kit price. so im hoping its all good. if not, ill buy new parts. my teacher is going to help me plastigauge the bearings or whatever to see if they are good. and then if they are not he is going to help me inspect the crank or whatever. he is master ase tech so i think we can figure it out. so what would cause a ticking noise assuming the worst case senario?

[Yaba3800]

this is what he wrote to me :::::


: I had a double chain on it, but the one that they offer for the 3800 DOES NOT FIT RIGHT!!!!! I spent $400 on it, and it took forever to install it because it is just to tight. It took even longer to get the gears off, the crank and cam. When I put it on I thought it was to tight and tried to find someone else that had it and couldnt. I called the people at ZZP and no body has used it, and had the same results when I called the people at intense. It seems as if it is being sold before anyone has tested it out. If you were to run it with this on the front cam bearing would wear out in a matter of miles. You can buy it and try to install it, but I would advise against it, because it is just to tight of a chain. So I guess to answer your question it is just a stock chain and tensioner on the engine.
what does this mean to me?