thinking about buying the stroker

[RedFrk13]

The ZZP stroker is on sale right now for 1,299. Just in case you didnt know. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Yaba3800]

thanks, but i purchased a motor with the kit already in

[that90spunk]

also it was shipped with no oil filter. isnt that really dumb?

well I dont think thats that bad. Since your going to want to replace the filter before you drop it in your car. I wouldnt worry about that much at all.

[Yaba3800]

thanks, i was just worried about contamination in the motor itself through that open port

[blacksport]

^ I'd think the same thing. If it were me I'd never leave an open port for debris to get into.


So your actually doing the stroker? Damn, that thing should run. Sorry I'm kinda late.

[SlowCamaro96]

Man.. first off, i would NEVER buy a used performance motor (especially one with a problem that hasnt really been explained). Second off, no offense, but you REALLY shouldnt buy a "project" motor if you dont know what you're doing.
ugh.

that being said, all the rust means he stored this motor/transmission outside. some of the structural parts could have been weakened from the rust, unless its just surface rust (pray for this).

a "ticking" noise probably refers to more of a valvetrain noise instead of a rotating assembly noise. this could be anything from a failed lifter to a loose rocker bolt. it could also be valve spring bind, etc.

if it is a spun bearing: yes you can get to them from the bottom of the motor. remove your oil pan, and the windage tray, and you will see the main and rod caps.

as for what you should clean off: clean off everything you are going to use. That way, when you install everything if it leaks, you can see the leak. The best thing i have found to clean engine/chassis parts is brake parts cleaner. its pretty cheap, and it works very well.

the difference between auto/manual radiators is the in/out for transmission fluid.

you're transmission crossmember will be different, and if i remember correctly the driveshaft MIGhT be different.

also, your wiring harness will be different.

good luck

[Yaba3800]

i have the harness, crossmemeber, and everything else including radiator, inner console, and shifter. i have everything required. unless the driveshafts are different, which i dont htink they are because people buy aluminum driveshafts all the time and they dont say auto or manual.
plus id rather buyt his motor and save 3100 on the parts seperately, and then try to find the problem and fix it.

[rhodeymark]

Like the man said - soak what you can soak and for other parts you can drape soaked rags on - fire hazard, make sure you are ventilated - and then go to town w/ wirebrush. When you have no flammable residue, I would think a dremel would finish it nicely (less sweat than sanding) but I defer to those with more experience on that. Be sure to paint it - light colors show leaks easier.

[Yaba3800]

wait....what am i soaking and painting? the rusted parts? most of the rust i saw was on the k -member and brake setup which im not using anyways

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

yeah get the double, i'm going to upgrade mine also, i'm on the OEM replacement still [img]graemlins/stickpoke.gif[/img]

[T-Punk]

Keep us posted on your build up, I'm still looking into a stroker and want to see how yours works out.

[Yaba3800]

if viper is on the stocker roller than i can be to right?

[Yaba3800]

riiiiiight?

[98Camaro3.8]

Originally posted by Yaba3800:
if viper is on the stocker roller than i can be to right?

Are you talking about the timing system? Stock isn't roller. But he just said he's getting rid of the stocker and going to a double roller setup. Stock timing system seems have problems with the tensioner when you use high strength valve springs.

[Yaba3800]

oh