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  • Question for people who have pulled a 3.8 THEMSELVES

    I searched and couldnt find what i am looking for. I am asking anyone who has personally pulled their motor for sugestions.
    A. Pull through the top ( maybe after cutting some sheet metal?) or Drop through the bottom utilizing a lift.
    B. Pull trans and engine togteher or seperate.

    C. Time it took ?? and any other tips

    Also for people who have rebuilt. The reason i am planning on doing this is because by this summer i will have 120K on my motor/ trans. So since i will have money i want to PLAN on rebuilding it befor i HAVE to. I want a litle beefier cam, maybe raise the comp. a litle( i know ill have to run higher octane) just pretty much do a rebuild and put in some performance goodies while im at it. I am also gonna have my trans rebuilt at the same time. Could someone give me a guestimate on costs? time isnt an issue if i do it this summer. Has anyone had their trans rebuilt ( auto by the way)? if so how much ?
    Thanks alot for any help.
    AIS 2 OHH the memories... Great times and putting names with faces.<p>From \"interesting\" hooters waitress(Did you guys FLY ? ) to pissing BMW owners off on the ride home. To ending up in Philidelphia and USING (hahaha) an ice machine. I had a BLAST.<p>Thanxs to all that showed up!!

  • #2
    Your in for a treat but it really isnt that bad. I had no mechanical know-how before I started....

    If you have access to a lift I promise it will be so much easier. GM service recommended I do it on a lift but I ddint have access. I pulled it from the top. NO CUTTING was needed. I had to pull the manifolds and the motor mounts off before I get get mine to clear the steering shaft.

    Keep your stuff organized. I have had alot of greif because as I took it off I threw it in a box. It is taking forever to figure out waht bolts go were. Go into it prepared ofr extra work. I had a bent crank that needed to be turned I didnt know about. I didnt do any performance mods to it either. Just a rebuild. I helped Pgriffith with his heads and it is pretty easy if you have the motor out on a stand you can work on. I am sure he will say the same. Order all he gaskets before you start. You will need new head bolts also. I dont know were to point you for the cheapest because I get cost at the dealer or commercial at checker. FelPro gaskets fit in most places exept the upper intake I have been told. I would order everything from GM if I had to do it again. Take your time and prep. I just dove into it. Get a case of intake cleaner and keep everything clean. Also pick up a FEW cans of gasket remover and a box of razors. Prepping the gasket surface was a PITA on mine. I dont know if they all are or not. Email me if you have any other questions. I am just finshing up so it is fresh in my mind. Or you can try to catch me in the chat room...peace and good luck
    \"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the <br />shoulders of giants.\" (Isaac Newton)

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    • #3
      I just put a new 3.8 in the ex wifes 96, wasnt a fun swap going through the top, but wasnt as drastic as cutting the car up. definately one of the harder swaps Ive done. If I were to do it again id go through the bottom.

      I work full time and only got to put in a few hours at a time, but its almost finished (putting in oil and tranny fluid and starting it tonight) I started last Friday night.

      If I wasnt such a booze hound and take so many breaks id have finished in probably 2 hard working days.

      ***********Shameless Plug*************

      Got the new motor from King Auto which is a greenleaf company, owned by Ford. 55,000 miles on it, fully assembled from plenum and exhaust manifolds to oil pan, for $761 with a lifetime warrenty and they cover replacement labor up to $40 an hour.

      Hopefully everything goes good and she fires right up tonight!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        When me and my friend pulled mine we took the tranny out first just use a floorjack my friend used his chest, guess he wanted to feel like a man :rolleyes: [img]smile.gif[/img] I took the motor out from the top with a cherry picker just get a few buddies to help you it is a pain in the rear but it is a nice experience when you do it yourself. It took about 10-12 hours because it takes a good amount of timje to remove all the sensors and mark them, MAKE SURE YOU MARK YOUR SENSORS AND OTHER PLUGS sorry about caps but i cant emphasize that enough, it makes the job so much easier trust me. All in all ita a good learning experience but a huge pain in the rear, good luck
        Longtubes, true duals, ram air, caspers tps tec, ls1 26lb injectors, supersix powerpack, heads milled .020, comp cam .507 220/224 114 ls, forged internals and chromeoly pushrods, bored .030 over, tb spacer, tranny built with stiffer springs and kevlar bands, bigger servo, transgo stage 3 shift kit, edge 3600 stall, 1 pc aluminum ds, 3.73 superior gears, lsd rear ,custom pcm tuning, walbro 255 in tank,

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        • #5
          Thanks i am glad to hear that you guys have done it. I was just wondering if the motor would fit through the top ?? may sound dumb but some of the sh!t that GM designs ..... that wouldnt have suprised me. Well i guess it's off to the phone and call apple motors and get them to quote me for machining and ****. And about raising the compresion a litle...... what soundslike a good ration 10:1 9.8:1 ( what is it now?? ) thanks again for everyones responces!

          MAX let me know how she runs later.

          [ November 04, 2002: Message edited by: whtefbrd96 ]</p>
          AIS 2 OHH the memories... Great times and putting names with faces.<p>From \"interesting\" hooters waitress(Did you guys FLY ? ) to pissing BMW owners off on the ride home. To ending up in Philidelphia and USING (hahaha) an ice machine. I had a BLAST.<p>Thanxs to all that showed up!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I haven't pulled mine (yet), but I'm planning on doing basically the same thing as you.
            One thing to consider, if you have enough money, is to pick up another 3.8, at least from the heads down, and rebuild that first. That's what I'm planning on doing, to minimize down time.
            I wouldn't plan on bumping the compression too much, because you start getting into serious clearance issues, not to mention detonation issues. I'm looking at going to between 9.6 to 9.8:1.
            For performance improvements besides the cam, I'd say to get the heads worked, just clean them up, i.e., three angle job, get rid of sharp edges in the combustion chamber, etc. I wouldn't advise getting the ports hogged out if you plan on streeting it, that's best for track use.
            Put on new valvetrain components, i.e., valves, springs, pushrods, etc., just to save yourself trouble down the road. You won't need racing stuff, but if you can get ahold of heavy duty components (L67 or GM high performance) for a decent price, go with that.
            For the bottom end, again, if you have the money, get yourself the L67 crank and rods, and if you do, you'll have to get custom made pistons, and you can play with the compression there.
            Also clean up the TB and intake manifolds, again, sharp edges, protrusions, etc., but no major hogging.
            For pulling the motor, if you do it through the top, pull the heads first (if you can get the cherry picker hooked up without them), it'll make it much easier. Pull the tranny first.
            As to rebuilding the tranny, the guy that is going to do mine said he could rebuild it for $1100, that includes corvette solenoids, fix kits for all the problems, and better than stock clutches and band.
            Hope this all helps.
            Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by maxxresist:
              I just put a new 3.8 in the ex wifes 96, wasnt a fun swap going through the top, but wasnt as drastic as cutting the car up. definately one of the harder swaps Ive done. If I were to do it again id go through the bottom.

              I work full time and only got to put in a few hours at a time, but its almost finished (putting in oil and tranny fluid and starting it tonight) I started last Friday night.

              If I wasnt such a booze hound and take so many breaks id have finished in probably 2 hard working days.

              ***********Shameless Plug*************

              Got the new motor from King Auto which is a greenleaf company, owned by Ford. 55,000 miles on it, fully assembled from plenum and exhaust manifolds to oil pan, for $761 with a lifetime warrenty and they cover replacement labor up to $40 an hour.

              Hopefully everything goes good and she fires right up tonight!!!
              <hr></blockquote>


              Fired her up, and she chugged and smoked like a train, then I realised the new engine had been sitting on a shelf on its side, cleared up after a little bit, but still had a flashing SES light. I was hoping the plugs and wires from the motor I bought were fine, guess I smooshed em putting it in or something, o well, put the new ones in and shes running like a champ, got 3 small issues to correct this week though:
              1. Some Jackass decided to come in my shop one night, saw the charger hooked to the battery and turned the timer on not realising it was on 12v high and left it on, Nuked Battery

              2:Broke one of the ABS plugs on the master putting the motor in.

              3:Tranny has a small leak somewhere, I put the tranny dipstick tube in after the swap (real pain in the butt, I think I may have cut the seal at the tranny, but I was to lazy to lift the car back up at the time and I couldnt see anything looking underneath, this cars low, Im used to my Toyota 4x4, I can duck under it without putting it on a lift or jacking it up
              ;)


              I havent gone through the old motor yet, it had a blown headgasket, possably a crack in one of the heads (I dont trust the machine shop I took it to so im not certain) if anyone needs some stock parts or possably a cheap engine to stick on a stand and rebuild, its got everything from plenum to pan, all there 68,000 miles

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