Camshaft/Crank Position Sensors - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Camshaft/Crank Position Sensors

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Camshaft/Crank Position Sensors

    As best I can tell, my plugs/wires/coils are all fine. (New) But I still have a steady miss. I've been reading about the ignition systems in our cars and it seems to me that an engine is a strange place for a hall-effect sensor, but whatever. Would one of these sensors failing give me a steady miss in one cylinder?

    I've got an osiliscope and I can get down there to test them, but the manual says that they might test out fine but still be bad. Should I just replace them while I'm down there, or are they too expensive to just replace. (I can't find them on GMPartsDirect.com)

    Would anyone who has a 95 3.4L camaro that has a scanning tool that works please contact me? I've been to two different shops and they both said that the 94/95 computers aren't compatible with the scan tools they sell.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    -Brian
    Maroon 1995 Camaro<br />No mods yet...<br />Lucky to have found this site!

  • #2
    the crank sensor is on the crank, you will have to pull hte oil pan, Im not too sure where the cam sensor is, although Im about to find out....

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, I've got the manual (chiltons) that shows where they are and how to test them, but as far as I can see, even if they test OK they may still be bad. I guess I'll just replace them if they're not to expensive. If that doesn't fix it, I'm screwed.

      What pisses me off the most is: I bought this car with a 90 day warranty on it, used of course. And 92 days after I bought it it starts running like crap. I've just about had it with the dealership too, they keep sending thank you cards and they even sent cookies! It's driving me insane. I want to call them and tell them "You're not getting my service calls, and I can change my own darn oil" Like I would ever take my car to a HONDA dealership! Sorry, just venting.

      Anyway, I'll probably go check on prices tomorrow. If I have to pull the pan, it might have to just wait. In the meantime, I'm going to check the connectors at the computer, and trace the wires to check continuity to the ignition parts. Wish me luck!

      -Brian
      Maroon 1995 Camaro<br />No mods yet...<br />Lucky to have found this site!

      Comment


      • #4
        There are actually TWO crankshaft position sensors and one camshaft position sensor. One of the crankshaft sensors(the 3x signal one) is on the passenger side of the block in the middle and near the bottom, right above where the oil pan meets the block. I'd say it's about 1/2" in diameter, but most of the sensor protrudes into the block(it's cylindrical in shape), it is held in with a single screw. The second crankshaft sensor(the 24x signal one) is on the front of the engine right above where the crankshaft comes out of the timing chain cover, just to the right and it is partially behind the harmonic balancer, so you will have to pull the balancer to get at it easyly, it is held in with two screws(it is wedged shaped). The camshaft position sensor is also cylindrical in shape with most of it protruding down into the engine. It is mounted with one screw in the top of the timing chain cover. Find where the lower intake manifold meets the engine in the front and move a little to the right and forward and you will see the wires going to it and the top plate of the sensor where it is screwed in. My local autozone carries the camshaft sensor for $32.99 and the crankshaft for $46.99, both Wells brand.
        Wayne<br />94 5 spd Camaro<br />Turbo/Intercooled<br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm</a> <br /><br />Megasquirt Stand-alone EFI controling fuel/spark w/ wideband:<br /> <a href=\"http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html</a>

        Comment


        • #5
          The camshaft position sensor is used for timing the injectors for sequential injection. It is a hall-effect type switch.

          The 24x crankshaft sensor reads 24 notches in the front of the crankshaft balancer assembly and is used for ignition control during engine cranking and improved idle control. The ECM uses the sensor to improve spark acuracy at speeds below 1200 rpm and influence fuel delivery at speeds below 2000 rpm. It is a hall-effect sensor.

          The 3x crankshaft sensor is triggered by notches in the crankshaft reluctor ring to provide timing information to the ECM. It is also a hall-effect sensor.

          Hope this helps. You shouldn't have to remove the oil pan to get to any of these. Just unscrew them from their locations like I said. The 24x will be hard cuz you'll have to remove the balancer and the camshaft sensor will probably be hard to get to as well because the intake stuff is in the way. Have you thought about replacing your ignition module? That was my problem when I had a bad miss consistently in one cylinder.
          Wayne<br />94 5 spd Camaro<br />Turbo/Intercooled<br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm</a> <br /><br />Megasquirt Stand-alone EFI controling fuel/spark w/ wideband:<br /> <a href=\"http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            I am also working on an ignition problem. My daughters 93 3.4L Firebird has a bad camshaft sensor. I am using an OTC Monitor Elite with Pathfinder 99. You can purchase one for about $800.00 at ntxtools.com. I work on GM vehicles for a hobby, and have for 22 years. I by no means am a mechanic, but a backyard mechanic. I am an Electronics Design Engineer though, and have gained a working knowledge of car computer systems. I found the information excellent on the sensors. I've found the cam, and the front crank sensor you spoke of. My camshaft sensor does not change on the scantool, and sets the camshaft position sensor code. I tracked it to a broken wire right at the sensor. I don't have a service manual for my daughters car like my LS1 though. Is there an ignition module that is seperate from the computer, and where is it? I know someone mentioned replacing it. I am in the process of fixing her problem currently. Also what are peoples experience with these digital EGR's? There have been codes for a long time for the EGR solenoids on this car and they have cleaned it. That did not cure the codes though. I would replace it but the kids have problems with the $150.00 or more price tag. I assume if the EGR stuck open at idle it could cause stalling or rough idle problems.
            99 WS6 Transam (Red,MM6,Traction Control)<br />Current Mods: Direct Flo Lid,Bassani Catback,Koni Shocks,FE7(1LE)Frt. LCA,Global West Frt.UCA,B&M Ripper,2nd Baffle Removed,Z06 Clutch,Powerstop Crossdrilled Rotors,EGR Tube,TB Bypass,CAGS.<br />308.7 RWHP 319.9 Torque 13.4 sec. qtr.(GTECH)<br />Mods planned: Complete Rebuild,9 PSI Vortech

            Comment


            • #7
              The 93 computers were a little different than the 94's and on, but I'm not sure how. One difference that I do believe I know is that they changed from a removable rom chip to a soldered in one from the 93 to 94 year. My 94 has a seperate ignition control module and it is the thing that the 3 coils are bolted to(the black plate w/ 3 connectors going into it). Replacing that once cured my spark problems at one time. I don't have too much info on the EGR, I just know that I have had a SES light for a while and nothing seems to run bad so it may be the EGR. I currently have mine blocked off and am getting horible gas mileage so I think I'll connect it back and trade out the head unit with the sylinoids for one I got on another 3.4 engine and see if that helps. I'm glad all the info helped you out. I have the factory Carline service manuals on my car so I can find just about anything I want to know, even some stuff I don't want to know... ;)
              Wayne<br />94 5 spd Camaro<br />Turbo/Intercooled<br /> <a href=\"http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.geocities.com/Mustang732/cars.htm</a> <br /><br />Megasquirt Stand-alone EFI controling fuel/spark w/ wideband:<br /> <a href=\"http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html\" target=\"_blank\">http://home.att.net/~basic-4/2ndMegasquirt/NewMegasquirt.html</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Brian Dieckman:
                As best I can tell, my plugs/wires/coils are all fine. (New) But I still have a steady miss. I've been reading about the ignition systems in our cars and it seems to me that an engine is a strange place for a hall-effect sensor, but whatever. Would one of these sensors failing give me a steady miss in one cylinder?
                -Brian
                <hr></blockquote>

                a bad ckp sensor would not cause a miss on only one cyl. it would cause random miss on many cyls. if you know that only one cyl is missing, focus on diag the ign circuit for that one cyl.
                ASE Master, L1, X1, C1. Instructor in automotive systems. 99 3800 4L60E with a few mods and a greatful dead sticker on the back window.

                Comment


                • #9
                  To follow up on the Scanner question originally asked. OTC 99 pathfinder covers:95 Camaro,3.4,3.8,5.7 SFI,SFI,and MFI respectively. The 3.8 shows OBD2 compatibility. Some 95's had OBD2 some did not. My book only shows the 3.8 as OBD2. I also believe an OTC Monitor 4000E with Pathfinder 97 or 99 at least should cover your car. They are available on Ebay for about $200.00. I personally prefer the real scanners. You might be able to use the autotap software but I would check with them. You have to be specific about what year and engine you have do to the 95 differences. You would need the OBD1 package for yours, and that would be no good for OBD2 cars. The OTC scanners can do all the standards. Even the 4000E can do OBD2 with the proper cable, it's on the OTC website under their support questions. My OTC Monitor Elite was $800.00 and does OBD1 and 2. It does all the GM F-Bodies even ABS, SIR, Transmission control modules, bidirectional special GM tests, and Imports. And yes it has Graphing software available and connects to your PC.
                  99 WS6 Transam (Red,MM6,Traction Control)<br />Current Mods: Direct Flo Lid,Bassani Catback,Koni Shocks,FE7(1LE)Frt. LCA,Global West Frt.UCA,B&M Ripper,2nd Baffle Removed,Z06 Clutch,Powerstop Crossdrilled Rotors,EGR Tube,TB Bypass,CAGS.<br />308.7 RWHP 319.9 Torque 13.4 sec. qtr.(GTECH)<br />Mods planned: Complete Rebuild,9 PSI Vortech

                  Comment

                  Latest Topics

                  Collapse

                  There are no results that meet this criteria.

                  FORUM SPONSORS

                  Collapse
                  Working...
                  X