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What do you guys think? I don't really know much about breaking in engines, some of it makes sense, but I don't know about all of it...
<a href=\"http://pics.projectpredator.com/thumbnails.php?album=16\" target=\"_blank\">2003 Zinc Yellow Mustang GT</a> 1 of 701<br />ET : TBD<br />But our shenanigans are cheeky and fun! Yeah, and his shenanigans are cruel and tragic. Which... makes t
To an extent, some of that information can be true. The procedures on a motorcycle or similar small high RPM engine are a bit different. This topic has been discussed a lot on the VW TDI clubs, and the procedure for those engines is about the same only spread out over 60k miles. (yes, 60 thousand miles for a break-in, VW diesels are rated for at least 300k) The overall concept of ring seating with high combustion chamber pressure holds true for just about any kind of engine. For the 3.8 I would keep the RPM's varied for the first 2000 miles and keep the RPM's under 4000. (but use the whole range of RPM's up to that point) Avoid keeping RPM's at a constant level. Change the oil, for the next 5k miles, (changing the oil as needed) keep the RPM's varied but wind the rpm's up to 5000 on occasion. For the next 10k, dont redline it, continue to vary the RPM's and try not to hold the RPM's at the same level for an extended amount of time. (no cruise control) After that, it should be good to go. There's no problem breaking in an engine with synthetic oil, contrary to popular belief. Also, no need to break in the cam on a roller cam/lifter engine.
Again, I'm no expert and it's a very heavily discussed topic but this is what is considered the "best" way. I dont think that taking your new engine to the track and blasting it wide open right away is the best way. But, to each his own.
Brendan
2000 Camaro L36 M49
I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess.....<br /><br />-Red Green
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