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  • Crankshaft sensor

    I need a little info/help w/ my snksft positioning sensor. Have any of you guys had a problem with yours? My car wont turn over and this is the only thing I have left to replace before I am out of ideas. What would cause this to go bad? There isnt any room for play or adjustment on it so it is either bad or not I would guess.

    My car was running w/o oil pressure(long story old topic) well I took the front cover off and packed the oil pump. Oil pressure comes up but the car wont turn over and acts like I have a misfire/backfire that is preventing it from kicking over. Ive checked wires(replaced) plugs(replaced during rebuild) ignition module, and coil plugs...my crnksht sensor is the only other thing I can think that would cause my problem...

    Any help please!!!
    \"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the <br />shoulders of giants.\" (Isaac Newton)

  • #2
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by edge24_99:
    Oil pressure comes up but the car wont turn over and acts like I have a misfire/backfire that is preventing it from kicking over.<hr></blockquote>

    Well, I don't know much about the V6, but the crankshaft sensor on my Impala SS is only used for deteching crank harmonics that signal a misfire. The cam is what controls the timing via the optical pickup in the Optispark distributor.

    Whats this got to do with you? Well, the crankshaft position sensor is the last thing the service manual says to look at (6E3-A-51). It sounds to me like there is a timing issue (crank/cam is off a tooth). I'd go get a copy of the section I mentioned above and run the complete 41 set "Cranks, But No Start" diagnosis.
    Kelly \'GhoSSt\' Rosato<br />1996 Impala SS, 385ci LT4, 52mm TB, Quad1 headers, !Cats, !EGR, !AIR, Hooker Catback, SLP TC, UK3, UL0, GM CD changer, Onstar®, Homelink® Remote, lots of Fleetwood, Denali & 9C1 Stuff.<br />1998 Z28 Convertable (stock at the moment)<br />1993 Caprice 9C1, 406ci MPFI, overhead console, 8-way Riviera seats, DVD, CD Changer, etc..<br />1977 Volvo w/ 3.8l V6 from a 1998 Firebird

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    • #3
      Thanks Kelly,

      But, the car was running before I had to take the front cover back off to pack the oil pump. I am %100 positive that the timing chain, cam shaft, or cranksahft didnt move. I didnt mess with it at all.

      I am guessing on this one. When I took the sensor out too look at it( cause thats all I knew what to do w/ it) it had iron filings on it. I think they were from when I had it out intialy for the rebuild. Since it is electromagnetic could the iron filings "shorted" it out in some way?
      \"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the <br />shoulders of giants.\" (Isaac Newton)

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      • #4
        <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by edge24_99:
        Thanks Kelly,

        But, the car was running before I had to take the front cover back off to pack the oil pump. I am %100 positive that the timing chain, cam shaft, or cranksahft didnt move. I didnt mess with it at all.

        I am guessing on this one. When I took the sensor out too look at it( cause thats all I knew what to do w/ it) it had iron filings on it. I think they were from when I had it out intialy for the rebuild. Since it is electromagnetic could the iron filings "shorted" it out in some way?
        <hr></blockquote>

        Not a problem. I'm not insinuating that you moved the crank/cam. I'm saying that when you had oil pump problems, something went wrong then. The 'iron filings' are your first clue. The crank and cam sensors (as well as the VSS sender) use a permanant magnet. So I doubt the filings shorted it out. But, the good news is that 3.8's are plentiful in the yards, go find one. The test for the crank position sensor is:

        1: Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and probe the CKP 18X signal circuit with a test light to B+.
        2: If the test light is "ON" locate and repair the short to ground on the CKP 18X sensor circuit. If not go to step 41 (which is replace the crank shaft sensor)

        I'm not sure if that helps or not. But give it a shot. [img]smile.gif[/img]
        Kelly \'GhoSSt\' Rosato<br />1996 Impala SS, 385ci LT4, 52mm TB, Quad1 headers, !Cats, !EGR, !AIR, Hooker Catback, SLP TC, UK3, UL0, GM CD changer, Onstar®, Homelink® Remote, lots of Fleetwood, Denali & 9C1 Stuff.<br />1998 Z28 Convertable (stock at the moment)<br />1993 Caprice 9C1, 406ci MPFI, overhead console, 8-way Riviera seats, DVD, CD Changer, etc..<br />1977 Volvo w/ 3.8l V6 from a 1998 Firebird

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        • #5
          I say just replace the sensor. Takes less effort then to start probing wires.

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          • #6
            And it takes less money to follow the diagnosis chart and not just throw parts at the problem. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
            Kelly \'GhoSSt\' Rosato<br />1996 Impala SS, 385ci LT4, 52mm TB, Quad1 headers, !Cats, !EGR, !AIR, Hooker Catback, SLP TC, UK3, UL0, GM CD changer, Onstar®, Homelink® Remote, lots of Fleetwood, Denali & 9C1 Stuff.<br />1998 Z28 Convertable (stock at the moment)<br />1993 Caprice 9C1, 406ci MPFI, overhead console, 8-way Riviera seats, DVD, CD Changer, etc..<br />1977 Volvo w/ 3.8l V6 from a 1998 Firebird

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            • #7
              <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Kelly Rosato:
              And it takes less money to follow the diagnosis chart and not just throw parts at the problem. [img]tongue.gif[/img] <hr></blockquote>

              Your right. But a new sensor wont hurt anything and its only 30 bucks.

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              • #8
                I guess it was a bad sensor....I need tuning like crazy now...Thanks for the help everyone...
                \"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the <br />shoulders of giants.\" (Isaac Newton)

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