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My 3.4 has now 113k miles and the rear seal i noticed is starting to leak. It does not drip anything on the ground, but if you look at the oil pan, its starting to creep along the back. Is it possible to change it on the car or would the engine have to be pulled?
[ February 27, 2002: Message edited by: ProAm3 ]</p>
Ric Johnson<br />----------------<br />1995 Pro AM III #12<br />3.4 A4<br />KN FIPK intake with ram air mod<br />Flowmaster exhaust<br />RKSport IAT sensor <br />ASP Underdrive pullys<br />TB Bypass<br />PF52 larger oil filter<br />3.42 non posi rear end<br />DeCarbon Trans Am shocks<br />Eibach pro series springs<br />B&M Shift Plus+ (best $40 ive ever spent)<br />Custom made billet alum front end inserts<br />Interior trim painted to match the car<br />Awia CD player with factory bose sound system<br />Viper alarm system<br /><a href=\"http://www.proam.webhop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.proam.webhop.org/</a>
don't quote me but I think you need ot remove the transmission. It would be might be easier with the engine out. I'll see what my haynes and Chilton's manuals say about it later.
Sounds like fun, the first drip on my driveway and ill go ahead and tackle it. Nothing bothers me more then a car that leaves behind an oil slick. Ill change the valve cover gaskets when i change the rocker arms.
Ric Johnson<br />----------------<br />1995 Pro AM III #12<br />3.4 A4<br />KN FIPK intake with ram air mod<br />Flowmaster exhaust<br />RKSport IAT sensor <br />ASP Underdrive pullys<br />TB Bypass<br />PF52 larger oil filter<br />3.42 non posi rear end<br />DeCarbon Trans Am shocks<br />Eibach pro series springs<br />B&M Shift Plus+ (best $40 ive ever spent)<br />Custom made billet alum front end inserts<br />Interior trim painted to match the car<br />Awia CD player with factory bose sound system<br />Viper alarm system<br /><a href=\"http://www.proam.webhop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.proam.webhop.org/</a>
I thought I my rear main was leaking, the Haynes manual says that the transmission does need to be removed, because you aslo have to pull the torque converter and flex plate.
Wife and a dog, they both think they\'re Kujo.<br /> <br />1999 3.8 A4 Y87<br />Navy Blue Metallic<br />BFG G-Force KDWS 275/40/17s, <br />WS6 Wheels (17x9)<br />Phoenix Transmissions 2400 Stall Converter<br />FRA, Holley Powershot filter, Whisper Lid, Ported Throttlebody<br />2000 manifolds, Flowmaster, WS6 Tail Pipes, <br />MSD 8.5mm Wires, MSD Coils, Autolite plugs<br />Performance Cryogenics treated rotors<br />1LE Sway Bars and panhard rod, 1LE front springs w/SLP Bilsteins, stock rear springs w/ 3rd Gen Bilsteins, BMR STB, KBDD SFCs, 1LE rear lower control arms, 1LE front lower control arms<p>1968 Chevelle Malibu 327 TH350
I changed mine last weekend. I had to replace my clutch and since I had the tranny off I had it broke down and inspected. I was also able to change my rear main seal since it was right there. It didnt take but two seconds but the tranny doesnt have to come out. Sorry.
Andy Adamez<br />--------------------<br />3.8L 97 V6<br />Hurst Shifter w/ Home Made Handle, Hypertech 160 Thermo, Ported MAF, 5 Point Harness for Pass & Driver, Painted Valve Covers, Nitrous Express Wet EFI Kit
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