Need help 93' 3.4L

[jayxer]

Anybody know where I can find the torque specs for the Intake manifold on my 93 3.4L? Im looking for the Maniold to the head, and manifold to manifold torque specs. Any help would be appreciated.

[viper98885]

From Autozone's website:
INTAKE BOLT TORQUE FOOT POUNDS (FINAL TORQUE)

TIGHTEN UPPER MANIFOLD TO 18 FT/LBS
TIGHTEN LOWER MANIFOLD BOLT AND NUT TO 22 FT/LBS
TIGHTEN UPPER MANIFOLD STUDS TO 89 INCH/LBS, OR
(8) FT/LBS
(TO TORQUE BOLTS AND NUTS, START IN CENTER WORKING
OUTWARD USING CRISSCROSS PATTERN)

[jayxer]

thanks viper, its much appreciated

[jayxer]

Im in the process of changing out the intake manifold,and valve cover gaskets on this engine... the gasket between the plenum and the manifold itself was absolutely demolished, as soon as the plenum was pulled off it broke into 30 different pieces. Cleaned everything up and then took the manifold off to find that gasket was just as bad. Im surprised at how well the engine was actually running with the condition the gaskets had been in. Also found that the wires leading into the crank sensor had been exposed and the sheathing had worn away. Now what im looking for is where I can get silicon valvecover gaskets? I got the ones from the GM dealer my father works at, but they are the original cork gaskets, and I was told they aren't even worth putting back on, and that I should get the silicon ones instead. I was amazed at the lack of carbon build up in the engine, aside from the coolant that had leaked in, the inside of the engine is extremely clean.

[3.4 slow to go]

never heard/seen of teh silicon gaskets for the 2.8~3.4 valve covers. Nothing wrong w/cork as long as all sealing surfaces are clean & the covers aren't over torqued.

Thinks a bit.....are you looking for the felpro "blue" gaskets, like they have for some erl pan & valve cover gaskets???

[viper98885]

FelPro makes cork and rubber. I use the rubber ones and have had good luck.

[jayxer]

I got the Felpro ones last night. Im glad I was able to find them. The one thing that really bothered me was the height difference between the cast iron head, and the aluminum intake manifold. Does anyone else have this gap? On the 3.4, each valve cover meets with the head on one side, and then the intake manifold on the inside. You would think they would try to keep that surface as level as possible, to ensure a good seal. What I wound up doing was filling the gap with a silicon gasket maker, before putting the valve covers back on.

[jayxer]

What a chore though to change the water pump on this engine. It looks like it would be a quick job, since its on the front of the block and there is plenty of room. But you have to take the power steering pump bracket off in order to do this. And there are a couple of bolts that are really hard to get at, some behind the pulley, and another underneath the pump itself, that without the use of a hoist, would have been impossible to reach. Im usually a fan of GM, but I can't understand why they would do something like that. Made the job 10 times more difficult than it should have been.

[jayxer]

I need some ideas here, it turns out my problem wasn't only intake gaskets, after all the work I still had coolant leaking into the oil. After removing the intake again, and taking the heads off, I found the problem. One of the head bolts had broken. So looking closer, the cam, cam bearings, main bearings, and rod bearings are all demolished. Now im looking at buying a short or long block. The heads are being magnafluxed and checked for warping. Where is a good place to get a deal on a short block, or long block if necessary? The best I have found is from Autozone, remade by a company called everdrive... Also are there rollercams available for the 3.4? If im gonna go this route, I might as well spring for a rollercam.

[viper98885]

There was a guy selling his complete 3.4 in the For Sale section not too long ago. I talked to him about buying it, but it sounds like you need it more than I do. His e-mail address is easyc4@neo.rr.com. He was asking $300 for the complete assembly including accessories and stuff but if you only need the long block, I am sure you could work out a deal.

[jayxer]

well I really appreciate it viper, but please go ahead if your interested. Finally came into some good news for a change. All the bearings were ruined, but talking with the machinist I am going through, the markings on the crankshaft was actually just bearing material, we were able to knock it down, and now its being polished. He is also going to magnaflux the block and heads, boil and clean them, hone the cylinders, new compression and oil rings, pressure test and resurface the heads, replace the freeze plugs, and new valve seats all for about $500. Atleast this way I have the assurance that the rebuild was done properly and with care, and im also putting new front and rear seals along with the new intake and head gaskets.