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panther you where right...i wanted to know what was done to the rear end...was it swapped or just had a posi and gears installed?
you can do either to get the same result...swap the entire rear axle with one that has the gears/posi you want, or buy the gears/posi then pay someone to install them.
13.0 s @ 105 mph => 315 whp
12.0 s @ 113 mph => 400 whp
11.0 s @ 124 mph => 520 whp
using whp is conservative. this means that with the above whp, you will be quicker. if your et is low, but the mph is close, you need stickier tires to bring your et in line.
13.0 s @ 105 mph => 315 whp
12.0 s @ 113 mph => 400 whp
11.0 s @ 124 mph => 520 whp
using whp is conservative. this means that with the above whp, you will be quicker. if your et is low, but the mph is close, you need stickier tires to bring your et in line.
All that crap is worthless if you don't have the car setup correctly. You can have all the power in the world and go no where. Just take the car to the track to get times instead of benchracing like that.
13.0 s @ 105 mph => 315 whp
12.0 s @ 113 mph => 400 whp
11.0 s @ 124 mph => 520 whp
using whp is conservative. this means that with the above whp, you will be quicker. if your et is low, but the mph is close, you need stickier tires to bring your et in line.
All that is garbage. 100% trash. Your formula doesn't take into consideration your 60', how the car is set up, or the DA at the track you're running. If you have 1000 whp but can't get it to the ground, your ET is gonna be off
the guy wanted a ballpark number. at least it's a number to shoot for - not some vague advice like cam, suspension, serious weight reduction etc.
it's a quick and dirty formula, and it's reasonably close. to expect 100% accuracy is foolish. i'd say calculating a target hp ±5% in less than 10 s is excellent considering the effort. go drag the car and see who's benchracing worse.
we're not talking 1000 whp on skinny street tires. that statement was irrelevant. you can 60' or et badly, and still make your mph. your mph will indicate how far off your et is - and hence your setup.
wickedsix9838 - have you dynoed your car? what's your race weight? i'm guessing you're at 3500 lb and making 280 whp ±5%.
for schmitty's sake, how much did your setup cost? ballpark figure...
That formula isn't garbage. Its the one we've used for a long time and its accurate for most all race cars. As for street cars, you can't really make a formula because of the many different factors. Gearing, torque converters, traction, etc. If you can't get a car off the line, under power, it will never run like it should.
Crysmatic: My car was at an estimated 3300lbs when I ran the 13.30. That formula is off because I was on a drag radial with only 3.73's. If I had some more gear and a slick with more RPM on the line, it would get closer to being right. The 468 we had in our Monza made 856hp corrected and 710 uncorrected, at the track I ran a 8.69@156 at roughly 2310lbs which figures VERY close to the uncorrected dyno number(695). Of course there are variations in different dynos and in air conditions for the given race/dyno days, but its close enough to have something to talk about.
As far as what I've spent I don't really have any ideas. I've done so much over such a long period that I can't even make an educated guess. Also, I work and my dad owns Abbott Racing Heads plus I do all of my own work so thats a big savings.
As far as what I've spent I don't really have any ideas. I've done so much over such a long period that I can't even make an educated guess. Also, I work and my dad owns Abbott Racing Heads plus I do all of my own work so thats a big savings.
thank you for the first point. you obviously know what you're talking about.
how can a non-son work for your dad? ;) i wouldn't mind relocating from the great white north to texas.
the guy wanted a ballpark number. at least it's a number to shoot for - not some vague advice like cam, suspension, serious weight reduction etc.
Ball-park numbers are just as vague as listing parts. However, in just listing the correct parts, he will be moving in the right direction rather than just seeing a number and doing w/e he thinks will get him there.
That formula isn't garbage. Its the one we've used for a long time and its accurate for most all race cars.
yea, something tells me the OP's car doesn't fall quite into that catergory
Ball-park numbers are just as vague as listing parts. However, in just listing the correct parts, he will be moving in the right direction rather than just seeing a number and doing w/e he thinks will get him there.
yea, something tells me the OP's car doesn't fall quite into that catergory
Which is why I said this right after it..."As for street cars, you can't really make a formula because of the many different factors. Gearing, torque converters, traction, etc." :)
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