Welcome to the FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
this winter im going to be putting in a cam kit that came with some springs and i was just wondering what would be easier putting the springs on with the heads off or putting them on while the heads are on the car?
also is there any certain way i have to put them on like stroke pattern or anything?
putting them on with the heads can be easier, you just have to find some way to keep the valve from dropping. Alot of people put a air compressor up to the spark plug hole, but an easier way I've found is to shove about a foot of nylon string into the spark plug hole, then rotate the crank around until the cylinder compresses the string against the closed valve you're working on.
wow smoke panther has a good idea there. but for all performance sake i would pull the heads so you can look at the valves and check installed height, guide wear and maybe even valve pattern. a three angle valve job adn a port and polish maybe to help with the increased flow. without forced induction the cam can only being in as much air as the passageways allow. take em off. it's not too difficult. but **** smoke panther i am definatly stealing the rope one from you.
Buy another set of heads do the springs / retainers,locks rockers, port/polish , have them milled .010. then use arp head studs with mls gaskets. And dont forget to port and polish the upper/lower intakes.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Buy another set of heads do the springs / retainers,locks rockers, port/polish , have them milled .010. then use arp head studs with mls gaskets. And dont forget to port and polish the upper/lower intakes.
you do realize that adds well over $1500 to the OP's original intended budget?
you do realize that adds well over $1500 to the OP's original intended budget?
Didn't realize he was on a budget, he could buy a set of spare heads $150, do a litttle port /polish himself, take it to a machine shop have the heads milled and have them put the springs /retainers / locks (which would be close to $200 for the parts), and have them check the guides for less than $100 for machining and labor. MLS gaskets $160 , ARP Studs ? I think $80, so for around $600 he could get away with a descent setup doing a little work himself. It just a suggestion since he's putting in a cam. Or just put off the cam and save up for some Abbott heads or ZZP heads then do it all at once.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
don't polish the intake it makes for crappy fuel atomization which isn't good for daily driving causes weird idle and eratic acceleration not under wot
don't polish the intake it makes for crappy fuel atomization which isn't good for daily driving causes weird idle and eratic acceleration not under wot
Alot of people port/polish their intanks, heads and throttle bodies and with proper tuning never run into any problems.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
doesn't matter if he's on a budget or not, you've dramatically increased the scope of his project.
he could buy a set of spare heads $150, do a litttle port /polish himself, take it to a machine shop have the heads milled and have them put the springs /retainers / locks (which would be close to $200 for the parts), and have them check the guides for less than $100 for machining and labor.
All the quotes I've gotten from machine shops around the area that would even be willing to work on the heads of a 3.8 put me, at the cheapest, $500....and that's without doing the springs and whatnot. That process alone would run more than $200 for just labor, so expect to realistically part with at least $700 if you want a machine shop to take care of everything involving the heads.
Also, you forgot to figure in tuning...either 500 for a HPTuners program, or the hourly rate at a dyno shop, if you can find one that would even know how to tune a 3.8
It just a suggestion since he's putting in a cam.
No, not really...what you're doing is creating a whole other project for the OP. There is a siginificant departure from just doing a cam swap to doing a heads/cam swap.
doesn't matter if he's on a budget or not, you've dramatically increased the scope of his project.
All the quotes I've gotten from machine shops around the area that would even be willing to work on the heads of a 3.8 put me, at the cheapest, $500....and that's without doing the springs and whatnot. That process alone would run more than $200 for just labor, so expect to realistically part with at least $700 if you want a machine shop to take care of everything involving the heads.
Also, you forgot to figure in tuning...either 500 for a HPTuners program, or the hourly rate at a dyno shop, if you can find one that would even know how to tune a 3.8
No, not really...what you're doing is creating a whole other project for the OP. There is a siginificant departure from just doing a cam swap to doing a heads/cam swap.
1st doing the work yourself doesn't increase the scope of his project, it will save money. "He never said I'm on this budget what can I do with this much money" Doing stuff yourself saves you alot of money.
2nd, your machine shops are over priced if they are charging that much mine was just under $100 for them to mill .010 off the heads and check the guides. I did the little port and polish myself.
Also for tuning if he is doing all this work, one would expect to purchase tuning software. If someone is expecting to mod their car they should know before hand what their getting into, instead of throwing parts on it and expecting it to run perfect. And since he just posted it is a 3.4 it doesn't much matter to me now since I know nothing about modding a 3.4. Good luck with your project MAROA4L32. Steve
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Hello every one, ozzy here ive been looking at this page for weeks now finally joined. So my question is why is it that every turbo build forum just ends...
Just ordered some Toyo 315/35/17 tires for my 17x11 rims. Hopefully I can get them on the beginning of next year. Will post pics.
5 days ago
FORUM SPONSORS
Collapse
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment