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compression ratio..
I just bought a 97 pcm about 10 minutes ago so i won't be needing that, I was checking out that link though and they've got some decent deals, I'm still undecided exactly what i'm going to do.
I'm aware of this, but like IDoVoodoo said, it would only be taking off about 0.030" which shouldn't screw up the valve train geometry too bad. Even if I go a little more, I should be able to machine everything to work right.
Well, the P&P is done, and the valve job will be done in about 2-3 more hours work, but I've found myself running very low on cash, so I'm unsure when I will be able to finish this project, and I might just install the P&Pd heads without rockers for the time being, well see..
Well, the P&P is done, and the valve job will be done in about 2-3 more hours work, but I've found myself running very low on cash, so I'm unsure when I will be able to finish this project, and I might just install the P&Pd heads without rockers for the time being, well see..
When you install em let me know the kind of gains you got from just the P&P and what other mods you have done to support it
From what i've figured out about the difference in stock style rockers and rollers are that they do offer a little less friction on the tip, lighter than stock, and with the comp pro mags I got they say they're supposed to be much more stable in high rpm use, which makes sense to me.
I say if your going to get different rockers or just higher ratio with stiffer springs it gonna put more pressure on the pushrods. Why not get some insurance and have some stronger ones and if your gonna get your heads plained and/or thinner head gaskets id call either zzp, intense, abbott about the right pushrod length just to be sure.
You could probably put your springs on yor heads when you install them so when and if you ever do put rockers on it'll make it that much easier.
Pushrods are probably a good idea. I'd go with a 7.00" pushrod for your application, stock is 7.020, while most companies list 7.050 as a stock replacement. Also, stay with stock lifters, not aftermarket. The stock allow more room for error than CompCam's do. Stock lifters have a range of +/- .080, where as CompCam's only have 1/2 that, so you have to be more precise with your measuring. And, for that price, I'd go ahead and go with roller rockers. If you're getting closer to $300, then why not go ahead and get the aluminum rollers? Less stress and friction on the valvetrain, they're about 1/2 the weight, they look better, and will last longer.
If your staying with the stock ratio 1.6 ocker, roller tip rockers don't add any more power. Just stick with the stock rockers. This is what Zoomer at ZZperformance told me, since I can't go up to 1.7 ratio with my cam. He said there would be no gains in going to a roller tip. Pretty nice guy since I was getting ready to spend $400+ on some rocker arms. I don't think he would talk me out of spening $400 if he wasn't honest. Also ask about the 3/8 7.05 pushrods, said just use the 5/16 7.05 no need for the 3/8 size. Right now I'm running Comp lifters with lightweight pushrods, no problems in 3 years with the Comps, just install them correctly. I will be switching my valve springs to Comp 105's with steel retainers, comp locks and Viton valve guides here shortly. Well see how that goes.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
"With stock heads, I recommend stock rockers. You can’t run 1.7s and there isn’t a gain from going to roller 1.6’s".
Zooomer
This is what he emailed me, since I have the VS cam I can't run the 1.7's.
And this is what they said about the pushrods:
"You can run the 3/8s pushrods if you want but there really isn’t a noticeable difference(performance wise) between them and the standard ones".
less friction and lighter weight means more power...doesnt matter how you put it...now, how much power is a completly different question...and also it wont give you more power, it will free up what is already there
Yes, it'll free up more ponies. Let's say you have to move 2 loads of bricks. The first load, each brick weighs 15 pounds. But, the 2nd load, each brick weighs only 5 pounds. Do you think you'll get the 2nd load done quicker and easier than the first load? In the same sense, do you think you engine will rev up quicker and easier with lighter parts?
If your not getting a cam and wondering about rockers go roller. If you dont have a cam you can go higher with the rocker ratio and if your upgrading id say save a lil more go roller.
since ive had my heads clearanced i'm gonna be running a GT3 cam and 1.73 comp pro mag roller rockers
I agree with the less weight on the valvatrain thats why I asked him about running the roller 1.6's, I don't know why he wouldn't recommend it, basicly he just lost a $420 sale. I run the Comp light weight pushrods already for about 3 years now, he said that he has seen many light weight pushrods break. This had me really worried, but he said since I have ran them this long without any issues, they should be fine. I have ran them with the powerdyne with around 300 wrhp and 330 tq, and have been running a 125 wet shot for about a year now. For the record I wasn't saying rollers are a waste, I was just going by what ZZperformance emailed me back saying. Which I thought was wrong also.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
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