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  • Lifter Dry Start

    I'm having some ticking sound on my engine since a few months ago. Apparently, the same ticking noise that I've read on other threads. My mechanic, which is a good and honest one, told me it is a lifter. I dont know how to translate the word, but the literal translation is discharged, dont know if it is the same as bleed-off, but that's what he told me, and told me to use Rislone to correct the problem, and I've been using it for the last 4 oil changes.

    The noise can be heard just a few seconds after starting the car when the engine is cold and then shuts off very quickly, and when the oil is reaching 3 months after the last oil change. The first two and a half months after the oil change, everything's perfect. Then, when reaching the third month, the engine starts doing that annoying sound, without reacing 3,000 miles between oil changes, but when I do the oil change, it stops doing it, until it reaches two months to three months after the change. I think that if the problem is a lifter, maybe its not staying well lubricated, between the last engine shut down and the next start, a dry start.

    When I noticed that noise for the first time, I had my headers installed, and the left header was leaking throught the EGR Hose-Header connection, like most of you have experienced. I tried to solve the problem for about a few months, until I achieved to seal it, since I didn't wanted to block it off, and right now is not leaking anywhere, but when that problem wasn't solved, I thought that noise was the EGR valve, because of the leak. But after solving that problem, I noticed that the problem must be something else.

    The oil I use is Mobil 1 10W30 Full Synthetic, the filter is the Purolator PureOne. My car is a 3800 Series 2, 1997 Firebird with just 57,300 miles. I thought of using a more thicker oil, like 10W40, using other filter, to see if it solves the problem. Overall, the engine runs really good, no problems at all, but after reaching the 10 years old, some sensors started to need some change, something that is natural for 10 year old electrical sensors and that's not a big issue.

    Can anyone help me, or suggest me somethng to do, or some other cause? Maybe it is something else, rather than a lifter, or a dry start like I think.

  • #2
    Re: Lifter Dry Start

    Can anyone here help me, please?

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    • #3
      Re: Lifter Dry Start

      You didn't say if your car sits for long period of time, its normal for a hydraulic lifter to bleed down it if sits for extended periods of time. I think your mechanic is correct. Our cars have hydraulic roller lifters. Inside the lifter is a plunger and spring. When you start the car, your oil pump pressurizes the system and "pumps up" the lifter with oil. Lifters do wear and will begin to bleed down over time. If it only occurs for a few seconds when you start the car, leave it alone. If it keeps ticking long after the car is started, then you'll have to pull the valve covers and dig deeper into it.
      69 Camaro 350 4spd, Full Hotchkis susp, Baer brakes, moser 12 bolt, Flowmaster<br /><br />96 RS Hotchkis STB, subframe connectors, Hotchkis LCA and adj Panhard rod, SS camaro sway bars, Bilstein shocks, powerslot rotors, Borla exhaust, rksport headers, k@nFIPK

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      • #4
        Re: Lifter Dry Start

        Originally posted by Den69RS96
        You didn't say if your car sits for long period of time, its normal for a hydraulic lifter to bleed down it if sits for extended periods of time. I think your mechanic is correct. Our cars have hydraulic roller lifters. Inside the lifter is a plunger and spring. When you start the car, your oil pump pressurizes the system and "pumps up" the lifter with oil. Lifters do wear and will begin to bleed down over time. If it only occurs for a few seconds when you start the car, leave it alone. If it keeps ticking long after the car is started, then you'll have to pull the valve covers and dig deeper into it.
        well, before using Rislone in every oil change, the ticking sound was practically every time, and sounded pretty nasty when accelerating...it improved with Rislone, but still keeps doing it, fortunately when the oil is near three months old, which still is not normal, since my car doesn't get 3000 miles in 3 months, it get around half of 3000 miles in 3 months.

        And other thing...if I'm going to change the lifters, I have to pull out just the valve covers, or do I have to pull something else too?, 'cause with the intake manifold on, the space is pretty tight.

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        • #5
          Re: Lifter Dry Start

          You have to pull the upper and lower intake to get
          to where the lifters are.

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          • #6
            Re: Lifter Dry Start

            In addition to the intake, you'll have to pull the valve covers so you can remove the rockers and pushrods before changing out the lifters. Also the pushrods create wear patterns on the cups of the rockers, so make sure you put each pushrod/rocker back in its original location.
            69 Camaro 350 4spd, Full Hotchkis susp, Baer brakes, moser 12 bolt, Flowmaster<br /><br />96 RS Hotchkis STB, subframe connectors, Hotchkis LCA and adj Panhard rod, SS camaro sway bars, Bilstein shocks, powerslot rotors, Borla exhaust, rksport headers, k@nFIPK

            Comment

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