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  • Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

    Hey guys,
    Its been a while since i've posted but i'm having a HUGE problem... i'm going to be detailed so I can give everyone a good understanding of whats goin on...
    The circumstances: So, last nite, drove to downtown Detroit for a meeting. Parked way up in a garage. Everythings fine. Get out of the meeting, start up, and start on the spiral ramp down to the bottom. Dont wanna fry my brakes so i throw it into 1st and let the engine brake me the whole way down. Get out on the road, dont notice anything. Start to get on the highway, go to punch it and just bogging. The worst I've ever heard. Barely any power, just a really mean boggy exhaust note. Cant go more than 30% throttle the whole way home. So i get it back to the gas station around the block from my house (its rainy) and pop the hood. Maybe I sucked up a newspaper or sumthing into my CAI. Nope. Clean as a whistle. Close it up, start up again and its like nothing ever happened. Full power the whole way through. WOT goes beautifully as my head hit the seat.
    Go inside, grab HPTuners to check the readouts. Start it up again and now its worse than it was 5 minutes before. Just nothing. Can barely get to 40. Get a bunch of data and call it a nite.
    This morning i went to get more data, start it up and barely keeping 400 rpms for like 30 seconds before it evens out. Sweet. Drive around and it gets better (a little). So, right now, i can give it about 50% throttle and i get the most power. anything past that and it bogs. It sounds just like if you tried to start a car from stop in 3rd gear. I can get to 80 mph eventually and its fine. RPMS dont seem to matter much. It seems directly correlated to how much throttle i give it.

    This is the technical stuff: No flashing codes. Same codes i've always had (low O2 voltage all around... I think it has something to do with a bad ground). HP readouts show almost no KR, fuel trim are a little rich if anything (but thats due to the low O2 volts and its always been that way). Both MAP and MAF sensors are mirroring each other. Steady 35 kPa at idle for the MAP climbing to 90-100 on acceleration. Spark advance is right in line with what it should be, O2's toggling (except for the oddball occasion when they go to 0, which again is that ground issue). Injector duty % looks similar to the ones I see on previous scans. All this for a stock tune. I whipped up a quick tune to even everything out and kill what little KR there was. Still the same old problems. Driving around, i found that forcing it into closed loop helped a little while forcing into open loop made it even worse. The readouts dont show anything different between a normal acceleration and the boggy kind, except for a ratcheted line on my rpms (very squiggly, not referring to the shifts.... like 3500/3490/3502/3509/3499/3498/3505/3515... kinda like that) and a very slow build up of speed.

    My first instict would be to call it an exhaust restriction and call it a day. But....... i dont have a cat. Just a straight thru glass pack resonator. I took a quick look down the tailpipes and didnt see anything. No flashlight to look all the way down but it doesnt feel like theres any difference between the two when i stick my hand in front of them while the engine's running.

    I'm at a loss of what to test. I want to say its something electrical or a sticky injector (i just threw in a thing of Techron so we'll see if that helps) because its so intermittant in its severity. If it was a mechanical issue like a busted up spark plug I think it would be a constant thing.

    PLEASE give me some help asap guys!
    Last edited by Camaro Dom; 04-13-2008, 06:01 PM. Reason: more info
    2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

  • #2
    Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

    Sounds like a cloged cat.

    edit: nevermind. Missed where you said you dont have a cat.
    Doug<br />1996 Camaro RS M5 Y87<br />SLP Bilstein shocks, Eibach springs, 1LE frt/rear sway bars

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    • #3
      Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

      good luck =)

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      • #4
        Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

        Could be bad batch of gas. Just an idea.

        TEAM C6V6

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        • #5
          Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

          Have you tried unplugging the MAF?
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

            What do the plugs look like?
            Drivetrain Moderator - "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people!"

            2001 Pewter Firebird Y87, M5
            Intake, exhaust, just about every suspension part, alum flywheel & ds, Turn One p/s pump and cooler

            Go Sabres!

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            • #7
              Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

              UPDATE: Yep. Its dead. "Caput'd" like my friend said. Starts, revs to 1200, settles to 800 (normal idle) for a sec, down to like 400, up to 800, down to like 100, back up to 800 and then dies. Damn.

              haven't taken the plugs out yet... ill try tomorrow and report back. Does this sound like an ICM to you guys? I also took off the intake up to the MAF. Exhaust was coming out the front... probably from all the cold starts tho. Reeks of unburned gas. Buddy said it might be a fuel filter (i'm due anyways) but it seems to be getting plenty of gas because the exhaust reeks of it.

              Could this be a vacuum leak?? i didnt hear a hissing but then again its kinda noisy in there anyways with teh electric water pump and the cars passing by (dead by the side of the road). I checked the brake booster line but i dont know of any other lines big enuf to stall out the engine.
              2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

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              • #8
                Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                Update #2: PCV, fuel filter and all 6 plugs replaced... still starts and still stalls 10 seconds later.

                Plugs look fine, a little bit of oil fouling but not nearly enough to be causing all this.

                Ideas? Anyone?
                2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

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                • #9
                  Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                  Originally posted by bigbrian442 View Post
                  Have you tried unplugging the MAF?
                  ????????
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                    Originally posted by bigbrian442 View Post
                    Have you tried unplugging the MAF?
                    What's that gonna do? Dont you need the MAF?
                    2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                      any codes being thrown? kinda sounds like a missfire. did you check your wires too? these cars are known for burning up the wires. if it was a clogged cat, there has to be a reason for it being clogged.. plus you would smell this gawd awful smell.. So I have been told.. and ur O2 sens. would of thrown a code a while back if it was the cat.

                      just a thought.. if I can think of anything else. I'll let ya know, also, try to put better fuel in your car... i had some bad gas in my work truck, and put high grade fuel to fix it, runs fine now for a toyota.
                      Archer
                      MISC: 01 parts. Some interior, T top kit, seats etc.
                      http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=95347

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                      • #12
                        Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                        Originally posted by Camaro Dom View Post
                        What's that gonna do? Dont you need the MAF?
                        If the MAF is not reporting the correct air flow the car doesn't run. Unplugging it forces the car into speed density mode where it doesn't require data from the MAF to run.
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                          Originally posted by Archer View Post
                          if it was a clogged cat, there has to be a reason for it being clogged.. plus you would smell this gawd awful smell.. So I have been told.. and ur O2 sens. would of thrown a code a while back if it was the cat.
                          Letting your car idle too long is enough to melt the CAT. The CAT requires flow through it to keep it cool(er). A bad CAT doesn't always make the O2 throw a code.
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                            Originally posted by Archer View Post
                            any codes being thrown? kinda sounds like a missfire. did you check your wires too? these cars are known for burning up the wires. if it was a clogged cat, there has to be a reason for it being clogged.. plus you would smell this gawd awful smell.. So I have been told.. and ur O2 sens. would of thrown a code a while back if it was the cat.

                            just a thought.. if I can think of anything else. I'll let ya know, also, try to put better fuel in your car... i had some bad gas in my work truck, and put high grade fuel to fix it, runs fine now for a toyota.
                            Archer
                            how would i check the wires? just take an ohmmeter to them? what the the values i'm looking for?

                            No codes (beyond the O2 low volts codes that i've ALWAYS had) and i'm pretty confident that its not a clogged cat.... being that I cut it off about 2 months ago as I mentioned before. C'mon guys! i spent a good 20 minutes typing up all that info... please read it...

                            Just after this whole debacle started and while i could still drive it, I filled up at my trusty corner gas station. Those guys always have good gas, and like i said, i threw a thing of techron in it so perhaps that'll help a lil bit. I burned about a gallon out of it before the car became immobile.

                            I'll pull the MAF and see where it gets me tomorrow. Letcha guys know what happens. Would a vacuum leak cause problems this bad??

                            Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it!
                            2000 3.8L Camaro A4 Pewter Y87<br />K&N Filter, SLP Ram Air kit, Eibach Pro Kit, Flowmaster 80 series, Silverstars, NGK plugs and MSD Super Conductor Wires, Electric Water Pump

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                            • #15
                              Re: Engine bogging, everything looks normal though...

                              haynes manual says: possible ignition problem but most likely intake manifold vacuum leak. good luck! try the easy stuff first

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