Abbot N/A or GT2

[LETZRIDE]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

yea 130 is overkill...that will rob power to since there is more resistance...I will personally be running the lowest spring I can get away with on my cam build...probaly either the 105 or the 90's havent decided yet...and I am getting abbott N/A cam, and the upper and lower intakes done.

[redbird555]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

I wasnt looking for anyone to get mad Im planning on doing it right hence why I'm asking questions. The yellow springs sit at about 250 lbs while the blue are 300. I know the blue will destroy the chain tensioner but Ive heard ok things with the yellow and stock tensioner. Thanks for the input everyone.

[jimmysprinkle]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

130 springs are overkill.

Actually, they aren't in my application. With nitrous, gears, raised shift points, and double roller, I need the added spring tension to prevent valve float in the higher rpms.

In fact, I have read numerous respected articles which have denounced the belief that bigger springs rob power. You must remember that with every spring taking energy to compress, there is another decompressing and returning energy to the valvetrain.

Here's some info to back my point:

http://www.cranecams.com/?id=5&show=faq

"Common Misconception:
Many people mistakenly think that using higher seat pressures causes a reduction in the horsepower delivered to the flywheel because higher seat pressures (and also higher spring rates required for high performance) require horsepower to compress the springs. This thinking is simply incomplete! For every valve that is opening and its valve spring being compressed, another valve is closing and its valve spring is expanding. This expansion returns the energy to the valve train and the engine. This results in a net power loss of "0" hp. Many engineering texts refer to this as the "regenerative characteristic" of the valve train. Recent tests at Crane have shown no horsepower loss on a hydraulic roller equipped engine when changing the seat pressure from 135# to 165#. Power actually improved significantly at top end, probably due to better control of the relatively heavy valves in the engine."

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine_parts.html

"There really isn't much to be gained by reducing spring pressure, either. It's true that high spring pressures rob power, but it's so minuscule, who cares? If you didn't have spring pressure, you'd have no power at all."

Don't think I haven't researched a project as important as a cam install. I started the same way as the OP, looking for LS6 valvesprings and retainers. But after looking at the specs, and how the Comp #130's have just about the same seat pressure while having much better quality and resistance, I decided not to skimp on one of the most important aspects of my engine.

But if the OP wants to pursue the cheapest route, I'd buy the LS6 springsand retainers, get the intsall kit, and get the GT1 or GT2 cam. The Abbott cam needs a lot of tuning to squeeze out it's greatest potential, while the GT2 will work fine without tuning (which I'm assuming the OP won't want to invest in).

[redbird555]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

PLease dont assume, I think everyone here knows why. I know any cam will need to be tuned. The abbot, gt2 etc all require tuning to run correctly however they will run without it. I will tune the cam that is an essential, am I going to spend $500 on hp tuners right away, no Im not made of money. However I am going to tune it as best as I can with a budget. Dyno shops will do a tune for about 200 regardless what cam you have so that isnt an issue. Also for the time being there are things like pcm for less. While this may not be as good as hp tuners it will certainly get you in the ballpark and the car will perform much better than stock.

[Smoke Panther]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

PLease dont assume,

then tell us all the details of what you want to do from the get go

The abbot, gt2 etc all require tuning to run correctly however they will run without it.

yea, they'll run in that point-a-to-point-b definition of "run," but no where near the justify-the-cost-and-time sense of the word

Dyno shops will do a tune for about 200

does that include adjustments after the initial tune? Is that the total cost? Or, is that an hourly rate?

regardless what cam you have so that isnt an issue.

any dyno-tuner that says they can tune anything, should not be let anywhere near your car's computer. That, and all the dyno-tuned Abbott cammed cars I've seen, make a smidge over 200 rwhp.

While this may not be as good as hp tuners it will certainly get you in the ballpark

maybe

and the car will perform much better than stock.

very unlikely

[tkoforpresident]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

my engine is about as "stock" as a cam-only engine can safely be, and it made 248 rwhp and 250 tq

must be those 3" exhaust pipes that do the trick :p

[Firebirdkid96]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

Weel sir, I'm sorry i offended you by voicing my opinion.

In your case, yes, 130 springs are a good idea, but to the OP? Not necessarily. He didn't talk about any power adder, or any sort of raised shift point, just the addition of a cam for power.

and what are your shift points at to need 130# springs to prevent valve float? you must be twisting that engine up pretty good....

bottom line to the OP:

Get a GT2 cam with 105# springs, f*** the double roller, you don't need it. Then spend some cash on a good dyno tune.

[redbird555]

Re: Abbot N/A or GT2

One more question. The car used to have a turbo before I bought it. Im not 100% sure if it has stock injectors because shouldnt a turbo need larger ones? Anyway is there a part number or is the lb number stamped on the side so that I can tell/