degreeing cams

[LETZRIDE]

Re: degreeing cams

Ok, so I need to buy 1 solid roller? What about if I bought 6 and just used a solid roller and just left them in there? or is that a bad idea

In the event of just buying one to use for the degreeing part....which slot should I put it into for the most acurate reading?

also, is this degree kit ok...its a little cheaper at 83$ http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And since the timing chain is adjustable, this one http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...egory_Code=HCV

is there a particular setting I should leave the timing chain on when I do this degreeing?

[Den69RS96]

Re: degreeing cams

Letzride,

You need to use the correct lifters for the cam you are running. You can't install solid rollers on a hydrualic roller cam without ruining your new cam. Thats why I said to buy one and its for degreeing the cam only.

You need to put the solid lifter in the slot of the number one intake. Then when you check the exhaust lobe, remove it from the intake and put it into the exhaust slot of the same cylinder. One a smallblock chevy, the exhaust valve is the first one and the intake is second. Not sure about the 3.8, but just look for the valve directly under the intake port on the first cylinder on the driverside and thats the number one intake.

The summit kit is fine too.

install it dot to dot first. The cam gear has the dot at 6 oclock, and the crank gear should be at 12.

I suggest buying a chiltons or hyanes manual for the correct procedure and torque valves, how to adjust your valve etc. Your going to need it.

Is someone helping you with the cam swap or are you doing this yourself?

[LETZRIDE]

Re: degreeing cams

pretty much doing it myself...deepest I have ever gone into an engine was to change my valve cover gaskets last month...There is a step by step (sort of) in one of the stickies...it doesnt seem like a difficult install, just time consuming...to be honest, I've been confident right up until this degreeing part lol... I do have a hyanes manual already.

Thats what I though about after as far as the lifters go...I kinda realized you can't use solid lifters if your cam is not meant for it.
now, since I am ordering most of this stuff online...is there a certain size solid lifter I need? (if you know the specs)

Thanks for the help so far...and putting up with probably a lot of dumb questions...

[Den69RS96]

Re: degreeing cams

I suggest contacting the cam manufacturer for the correct lifter part numbers. Please make sure you order the one solid lifter in the same size as the 12 hydraulics.

Once you start to actually degree your cam, you will realize its not to hard, but sounds way more difficult that it is. You will prob spend more time one the first step of trying to finding tdc. Once you do that and found a good mounting location for the magnetic base, you just rotate the engine per the instructions listed on cranes website.

As your rotating the engine, watch the dial indicator and when it reaches .050 before max lift stop and record the number on the degree wheel. Then continue to rotate the engine and watch for max lift. This is when the needle on the dial indicator stops moving forward and begins to reverse its direction. Once you find max lift, then continue to rotate the engine in the same direction until the dial indicator reaches .050 after max lift. Record that number on the degree wheel. Add those two numbers together and it should match the max lift on your cam card under the Cam timing @.050 section. I've included my trickflow cam card below to help you understand a little better. When i degreed my intake lobe, when I added the two numbers together I got 106. when I did the exhaust lobe I got 114. I knew my cam was installed correctly straight up when I lined the cam and crank gears dot to dot. No adjustments were necessary. Now if my reading came out to be 110 on the intake when I added the two numbers together, my cam would be 4 degrees retarded. In this case, I would take off my crank gear and use the 4 degree advanced slot. Then I would begin the whole proceduce over again and when I add the .050 before max lift and after max lift it should now read 106. If it does, your done, your cam is installed correct. Does that make sense?


Intake @ cam 320 @valve 480
Exhaust@ cam 3294 @valve 494
ADv duration 284 Int 290 Exh
Dur @ .050 is 228 Int 234 exh
Springs 110 lbs closed 312 lbs open
1.50 ratio rocker

Cam timing opens closes
@0.004 Intake 32 BTDC 72 ABDC
Exhaust 75 BBDC 35 ATDC


Cam timing @ .050
Intake opens 8 BTDC closes 50 ABDC max lift 106
Exhaust opens 51 BBDC closes 3 ATDC max lift 114

[LETZRIDE]

Re: degreeing cams

I see...sounds alot easier. My cam card will have it for 1.6 rockers thought right?...or am I going to have to make some conversions and calculations?
also, approximately how long did it take you to check if you needed to degree it?

and what would cause some cams to be able to be installed straight up...and others you need to advance or retard timing? would that not mean that our cams were originally not installed right...and that we are not getting the full potential out of our stock setup?

[Den69RS96]

Re: degreeing cams

I would check with the cam manufacturer to see if the cam timing @.050 will be different with 1.6 ratio rockers.

Lots of things can cause a cam to need to be advanced or retarded. Say your running an aftermarket crank and its not ground to the exact specs that a factory gm crank is or the cam itself my be off. Generally if your running a factory crank, most likely your cam with be correct straight up. Some engine builders intentionally advance a cam, but I've leave that to the pro's who are designing performance engines. You should only advance/retard your cam if it doesn't match your cam card.
Good luck

[LETZRIDE]

Re: degreeing cams

alright thanks...hopefully everything will work out...and if it doesn't...I'll be back on here asking questions lol...I've already started ordering parts