Replacing a 3.4

[altief]

Newbi here,

I bought a nice 95 that had a bad engine (bad rapping noise). I followed the instructions on removing the engine that I found here an on other related sites with no [major] problem(s) (I had access to a lift and have tools). It did take me about 8 hrs just to remove the engine. A mechanic friend of mine told me later that its really about a 3 day job to remove, replace and reinstall the engine in this car. Alldata indicates that it is a 13 Hr Job. I'm sure on the next one I can do it quicker

Question is, what should I do to prep the new (junk yard) motor before I put it in?

I was already planning to:
- new valve cover and oil pan gaskets
- new rear main seal
- new intake gasket
- swap in injectors from old motor
- new plugs and wires

Should I put a new oil pump in? Any other suggestions?

Thanks...

[tampabud]

Re: Replacing a 3.4

have a 3.8 with a junkyard swap .i would replace the oil pump for insurance . u dont know how that engine was taking care of.
how about the water pump ?
thermostat?
check all the front seals much easier to change parts now .

[altief]

Re: Replacing a 3.4

Thanks. Yes I meant to include the thermostat, I was planning to do that.

I was thinking about the water pump and oil pump. I think I will do those also.

Missed the front seal. I will do that also.

How can I check the Head gaskets? There was no water in the oil when I picked up the JY engine and the Junkman siad the motor was "good" (30 Day warranty).

[Mad Max]

Re: Replacing a 3.4

I recently swapped a 3.4 from a 95 Camaro into my 91 S10 5 speed chevy pickup. The old 2.8 was torched - Here's what I did:

New timing chain
new gaskets for the whole front cover and seal.
New oil pan gasket and cleaned out oil pan
*New rear main seal*
New clutch kit including new flywheel - $180 on Ebay - super bargain
Cleaned entire block and heads - painted black
New intake gaskets
new valve cover gaskets
polished fiero aluminum valve covers. These are rare, but look unreal.
cold air (Edelbrock air filter)

The JY engine I got from a U Pull yard. Took me 45 minutes to pull with a snap on 400 FT LB battery 1/2" drive impact gun. Dropped the whole subframe. The odo said it had 219,000 miles. Yo. When I took the valve covers off, the inside was spotless. Someone had taken real good care of this unit. If you pull the covers and it's clean, you most likely have a good engine. Next is the oil pan. If it's clean, then everything is cool. I didn't replace the oil pump, and the OP guage pegs when it's cold. Hot (90*outdoor temp) at idle (Baton Rouge LA weather) it runs 40 lb pressure. 16.3 at the track with no traction - posi is next. I replaced the rear main seal. The original was brittle. It would have probably leaked in the future.
I drove to Key West from BR, and returned. Round trip = 2,300 miles @ 70 - 75 mph with A/C on = 21 MPG. No oil used.
Oh, one other thing - I pulled 1 rod cap and looked at the bearing. It looked like new. Make sure you torque it to specs if you do this.
I had an engine stand (Harbor Freight $45) which made it real easy to work on. I finished the whole job in 2 1/2 days. A buddy of mine has a floor dyno, it made 117 HP, 142 TQ. I am changing the throttle body to 1/16" from a 305 V8 with a 1" TB spacer and remapping the computer soon. I bought a 4.10 posi. Maybe 13s? :bowdown:
Anyway, all the BS about my POS aside, hope this helps you make the right moves for your project.:tup:
One other thing - don't touch the head gaskets. Unless the engine overheated, they should be no problem.

[altief]

Re: Replacing a 3.4

Thanks for the F/B... It definitely helps