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Installation instructions: White Gauge Face overlays.
This procedure has been developed for installing gauge overlays for the 1993-96 Camaro. I am sure that the procedure is very similar for the later cars. It is not very difficult to perform this mod, as long as you take your time and work carefully. It should take approximately 2-3 hours from start to finish. Please read through this procedure carefully before you begin.
VERY IMPORTANT: MAKE VERY ACCURATE DRAWINGS/NOTES about the placement of the gauge needles. You will thank yourself later (guess how I know this). Do this with both the car running, and engine off (key out). Note the normal operating range of your car (temp, oil pressure, and so forth). The needles will move slightly when you turn the key on (engine not running), so keep that in mind. Also, I recommend filling your gas tank prior to installing the gauge faces. Let the car cool to room temperature before starting.
Tools you will need:
Flat blade screwdriver
7/32” ¼” drive socket with wrench and 3” extension
9/32” nut driver
9/32” ¼” drive socket
Small Phillips screwdriver
Knife
Cordless drill is handy, but not required
Step 1) Disable your air bags. Consult your service manual for complete instructions.
NOTE: When I did my install did not disable the airbags. I do not assume ANY
liability if yours accidentally deploy. It is your choice and responsibility to use good
judgment while working on your car.
Step 2) Remove the panel underneath the steering column using the Phillips screwdriver, and the
9/32”nut-driver. There are 2 Phillips head screws, and 2-9/32” screws. Disconnect the defroster
switch wiring harness, and set this panel aside.
Step 3) Open the glove box, and remove the 3- 9/32” screws attaching the radio trim cover. Also remove the
2-9/32” screws near the steering column for the other side of this cover. Remove it and set aside.
Step 4) Remove the 3-9/32” screws attaching the bottom part of the gauge pod cover. One of these screws
is located next to the fuse cover panel, right by the A/C vent.
Step 5) Using your flat blade screwdriver; GENTLY slide it under the dash pad where the gauge pod meets
the dash, and pry open the pop clips that secure it. You do not have to completely remove this pad,
just loosen it enough that you can get your hand and a wrench underneath it. This should be no
problem, as I have really big hands and was able to do this without breaking anything.
Step 6) CAREFULLY reach under the dash pad, and locate the 2 -9/32” screws, and remove them. Again,
I had no problems doing this with my big hands. If you do, you might want to remove the
dash pad completely.
Step 7) Remove the gauge pod cover, and disconnect the clips holding the headlight/fog light control
panel. Set this piece aside. You should now have full access to the actual gauge assembly.
Step 8) Remove the 4 -9/32” screws holding the gauge assembly in place. You will want to do this with
the nut driver ( I found that much easier). Reach in, and pull out the gauge assay, and disconnect
the wiring harness from it by squeezing the ‘ears’ of the connector together and pulling (on the
connector…NEVER the wires). Take this to your workbench. You do not want to do the rest in the
car.
Step 9) Remove the 5 -7/32” screws (they also have a ‘torx’ head slot) holding the clear gauge lens to
the gauges. Set aside for now.
Step 10)GENTLY remove the gauge needles from the gauge face. DO NOT BREAK them…GM does not
sell the needles alone, according to my dealer ( I had to ask…just in case). RK Sport includes a tool for removing them. After the needles are removed, slip your knife blade under the old black gauge overlay, and carefully peel it off. Do not remove the old adhesive.
Peel the backing off of the new gauge faces, and accurately align them over the panel. Press them
in place. Peel off the protective top layer of plastic.
Step 11) This is where your super accurate drawings of the needle positions are going to pay off. Replace
the needles EXACTLY like your drawings (when the car is cold) Ensure that the needles are
properly seated on the pins.
Step 12) Re-install the lens on the gauge pod. For now, use only 2 screws.
Step 13) Place the gauges in the car (do not bolt them in yet) and connect the wiring harness. Turn the key
to the ‘on’ position, and note the position of the needles. If they look ok, bolt the pod back to the
dash, and drive the car until it gets up to operating temperature. If everything looks good, you are
ready to re-assemble your dash. If not, make the required adjustments and try again. For the
record, it took me 3 tries to get the needles aligned correctly.
Step 14) Ensure you have re-assembled the gauge pod (all the screws are in). Bolt the gauge assy. to the
dash, and connect the wiring harness.
Step 15) Install the gauge pod cover, and bolt into place. Use your fist, and pop the dash pad back into
place. It should snap back in easily.
Step 16) Install the radio trim cover, and bolt into place. Don't forget the bolts in the glove box!
Step 17) Attach the wiring harness for the defroster. Install the panel under the steering column.
Step 18) Enjoy your new look!
CAMAROWIDBASS, whast up? Just got the money you sent for that cap, thanks btw. Anyway, I had to install white face gauges on my car many of times *something would always go wrong with a set down the road*. What linxs said is ok, but i'd do it a little differently. You can mark the needle positions, but you can put the new gauges on with the needles still on it by putting the overlay over one at a time. Once in a while one of the needles might come off when your doing it so it is kind of good to note the needle positions. If you remove all your needles it's going to be a PITA trying to get the accurate again. Also you can just put the white face gauges over the black part, you don't really have to remove it if you don't want to. I always left mine on there incase I wanted to convert back to stock or sell the car or something. Also to save you some confusion. When you have to connect the power and ground. Tap into the wires for your headlight/running lights selector switch. OF course black is for ground, but note that yellow is for power. This way your gauges will only turn on when you turn your headlights on. Good luck.
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