Check out my estimate

[97chevycamaro]

[img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] I went to a local paint shop today to see how much it would cost to get all my dents taken out and get the whole car painted Hugger Orange, well after a 5 minute lookover the guy gave me a paper, $6500 Estimate to remove the dents and $4000 for paint, [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] he said he would do it for 9, i was like umm but i can buy another camaro for that, then i left [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img] my cars not even worth 9k [img]graemlins/rofl.gif[/img]

edit- i dont have many dents either, just a large crease at the rear passenger panel{Not me a mystery motorist at the mall}, and it cant be fixed, it would have to be cut out and a new one welded in.

[ April 30, 2003: Message edited by: 97chevycamaro ]</p>

[hockeyman]

Best estimate I got for repainting my whole car was $2,600.00. I'm buying my own air compressor and auto pain accessories, and I'm gonna do it myself. I have two other cars I can practice on first.
Screw them autobody shops!

-Marc

[97chevycamaro]

I hear yah, im about to say screw it and buy some books and do it myself

[JVT007]

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by hockeyman:
Best estimate I got for repainting my whole car was $2,600.00. I'm buying my own air compressor and auto pain accessories, and I'm gonna do it myself. I have two other cars I can practice on first.
Screw them autobody shops!

-Marc<hr></blockquote>

yeah but how much for the actually acceossories to paint with

[Ted]

The estimate the guy gave you is horrible but there is a lot more you guys should know thats involved in a paintjob, it's not just slapping some paint on the car. You have to wetsand the whole car down which takes a while, if your changing the color most of the time you'd primer it or if you fixed any dents and fiberglassed over, then you have to wetsand the primer all back down, spray the base and clear on, then you have to wetsand it down all over again and buff the whole car with compound. All the prep work takes a long time. As a matter of fact doing it in your garage isn't a very good idea unless your garage is free of any dust, dirt, or anything in the air, has good ventilation, etc. While it's taking the time to dry for the next couple days I can't imagine all the dirt that would get stuck in the paint. I think it's a waste of time and money if you don't do it properly. 2600 dollars isn't bad at all. If you guys want something done right it's gonna cost some money, it's not a charity. At least get a maaco job before doing it yourself, lol.

[Camaro Bob]

A crease in the rear passenger panel can't be repaired? Are you kidding me? Even if it had a hole ripped in it you can still bang it out, body grind, fill, shape, sand, prime, wetsand and paint....geeze, go to a body shop that knows what the hell they are doing. Before I replaced my rear quarters after my total, I had been in an accident that caved my entire drivers side rear quarter in. The quarter was crushed in over six inches, from the door back, and I repaired it myself, had it painted, and it looked perfect. It was a lot of work, but you can certainly have that fixed. Rather than having that quarter cut off, and have a new one welded on, prepped, and painted, you could save some serious cash by doing it yourself. Buy some lead body pads, reform it as close as you can, body grind it, etc. I bet a paint job for your rear quarter, blended would be around 200 dollars.

[JVT007]

drill small holes and pull out then bondo?

[Camaro Bob]

There is no need to drill holes to pull the dent. The quarter panels in the rear of Fbodies is totally acessable from the inside and out. Just pull the plastic paneling, spair, jack, etc. They make lead body tools, they work awesome. See, the lead is softer than the sheet metal, so it won't thin out the metal any more than it already is. just bang the dent out as well as you can....I mean, as close to factory look as you can get. Then use a body grinder to smooth it all out and get to the raw metal. body filler can now be used (bondo is a brand), it is important to bang it out as well as you can, the thinner the filler the better. Thick body fill is not only heavy, it will have problems....falling out and cracking over time. After the bondo is set, you can use a body shaper to start shaping the panel the way it should look. It's a long flat sanding block with paper on it. It has handles on the top, kind of like an old school hand planar. It takes a long time to shape everything perfect, but you can sand, prime, resand, reprime day to day to prevent rust if it takes you a couple weeks. I'd have the body shop wet sand it and paint it, unless you have a dust shroud. Anyway, good luck.