I'm trying to take off my stock red decals so I can put on my reflective blue ones. I got the whole kit from autografics and I put everything on except the Firebird word and symbol between the tailights. I tried heating up the old one with a hair dryer, no effect. Tried scraping it off with a flat exacto knife, very dangerous and started leaving little scratches all over the place. Does anyone have a tried and true method of getting that kind of decal off? I noticed its a lot thinner than my new ones and its really REALLY on there good. Right now I have half of the T in Trans Am scraped off and it looks really stupid so if you could help me out I'd really appreciate it!
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I just did mine today ( See http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=5&t=005096 ).
Took about an hour using fine, damp Synthetic Steel Wool. Then I hit it with some polish and applied the decals.
You have to be rough with it, and it's gonna look like crap in the beginning.
Here's mine after 1-hr of work. (including decal application)
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Okay I did it with a scotch-brite sponge...seemed to come off pretty easily and evenly compared to the xacto knife method. Problem is now the clearcoat is all dull because of the scrubbing it took to get it all off. I put some Zaino on it, the one thats supposed to get off fine scratches, its drying now...I hope it works! I'll get pics up once I wash the whole car even though it'll probably freaking RAIN AGAIN tonight...I hate precipitation!2002 Black Firebird:<br />A4, Y87, W68, T-tops<br />Best NA ET: 15.16 @ 90<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02</a>
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if all goes well this is my next task!<b>*§*Julian*§*</b><br />*~*~*~<br />2000 Grand Prix GTP -Daytona 500 Edition (only 2000 made) - Supercharged 3.8L V6<br /><br />1998 3.8L V6 A4 Firebird w/ W68 package, Y87, T-TOPS!<br /><br /><a href=\"http://myweb.usf.edu/~jadidona/index.html\" target=\"_blank\">MY SITE - CHECK IT!</a>
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Well my car is now in the shop getting the big mods done (exhaust, suspension, SFC) so I can't take any pics but I'm still wondering how I can make my clearcoat shiney again where I scrubbed off the old decal. Right now it's mostly covered by the new decals but all around it is still noticably dull, especially to me! Any tips?2002 Black Firebird:<br />A4, Y87, W68, T-tops<br />Best NA ET: 15.16 @ 90<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02</a>
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first off, its not a decal, so thats why your having trouble.
I would have traded you my LT1 formula center plate (plain black), for a red Trans AM one :(
here is a great how to:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...=center+filler
hope this helps.
Ryan.1998 Ws6 Ta M6 #370 Bright Red<br />Custom \"NX\" style switch panels $35<br />Plug in fan switches $50 <br />SLP lid, Pro 5.0, Corsa, Custom Fan switch<br />....vortech waiting to be installed.
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Well damn, I'll have to buy that replacement panel I suppose, can't have my bird looking like crap! It's a good thing autografics sends two of both the Firebird lettering and the logo for that panel!! Thanks for the link dude.2002 Black Firebird:<br />A4, Y87, W68, T-tops<br />Best NA ET: 15.16 @ 90<br /> <a href=\"http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02\" target=\"_blank\">http://members.cardomain.com/darksde02</a>
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you do not need to buy a new panel.
Sand it, and then polish it
It will look good as new.
use some 1000 grit, and 1500 grit papers, and you should be set, you might have to go a little rougher for the scratches you made, but they can be sanded out, and polished out.
Ryan.
[ August 12, 2003: Message edited by: slow ]</p>1998 Ws6 Ta M6 #370 Bright Red<br />Custom \"NX\" style switch panels $35<br />Plug in fan switches $50 <br />SLP lid, Pro 5.0, Corsa, Custom Fan switch<br />....vortech waiting to be installed.
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I have found an excellent way to remove the original emblem. the red is painted on the plastic panel, and can be easily removed.
You will need the following:
1000 grit sandpaper.
Access to a water hose.
3 inch diameter buffing wheel and mandrel for a drill, available at sears. this kit also includes some buffing compounds.
A power drill.
Here is what you do.
1. Use the sand paper to remove the red paint of the original emblem. This MUST be done while using the water hose to keep the 1000 grit sandpaper and plastic panel wet at ALL TIMES!!! You will notice the red begin to get thinner and thinner. The reason for using such a high grit sandpaper is to reduce the amount of work you have to do to smooth out the tail panel before you put on your new decals on.
2. After sanding all the paint off, put the buffing wheel on the mandrel, and put the mandrel in the power drill. Make sure to move your car away from the water you have left from the previous step. Turn on your drill, and hold one of hte buffing compounds up against the wheel. The buffing compound will begin to deposit itself on the wheel. I suggest using Red Rouge, which is red in color, and is suited to buffing plastics and painted surfaces. Once the compound is applied, begin to push the cloth buffing wheel onto the plastic panel. Move it back and forth, applying slight pressure. If you apply too much pressure, you will stall out the drill, and it wont do you any good. You want to apply slight to medium pressure (decide by feel), and allow the compound to do the polishing, not the force of your hand. Over time, you will see the sanded plastic begin to look like the original panel. By the time you are done, you should not be able to see a difference between the two areas of the tail panel.
3. Now, get some soap, water, and a sponge, and clean the tail panel off to make sure and remove any compound residue.
4. Inspect your handiwork. If it looks good, go ahead and apply your new decals.
If you have any questions, feel free to email me.Property of Dave Hamburger
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