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Loosen the motor mounts?? Leave the y-pipe on?? You're doing it the hard way.
It's not that the exhaust is in the way, the problem is that the exhaust holds the engine level. When you remove it, it will allow the engine to tilt back. With the engine tilted back, the trans will slide right out without interference with the tunnel.
Trust me, you're going to have a hell of a time putting the trans back in unless you unbolt the y-pipe.
I would rather undo the Motor mounts then have to worry about stripping a rusted y-pipe bolt especially if it is a stock manifold car.. Thats just me.. If it was a perfect would and everything goes right when you work on your car ( which it never does ) then I would say undo the y-pipe but From breaking or stripping y-pipe bolts in the past when I tried to remove them I found other ways that are less frustrating to do things.
Jeff ..
1998 Firebird.. Built 3.8 with a 125 shot.. 370rwhp,415rwtq.. stock tune!! sold
Since the trans is out , it should be cake for the oil pan gasket, just remeber to unbolt the oil pickup on the passsenger sidehave to pry it open and get a socket on it then slide the pan back and it should come off. I cut the new oil pan gasket where the oil pickup goes on so it could be mounted straight up so no messing around with the oil pickup , which I replaced with a new one also might as well cheap price to pay, Meatyshells did the removal and install , I just modded the oil splash guard for the oil pickup and oil pan for -10an return line.
I am not fully understanding what your saying. Could you explain it for the not so mechanically inclined?
Steve, I think it may have been easy for you because you have that tubular k-member, but I believe with a stock k-member, the k has to be removed to change the oil pan gasket.
Steve, I think it may have been easy for you because you have that tubular k-member, but I believe with a stock k-member, the k has to be removed to change the oil pan gasket.
You may have just saved my ***.
I noticed that the oil is the wettest at the rear of the pan. I cleaned it off the best I could and niticed it was slightly wet again. I could see the gasket flex and the reflection of the oil move when I pressed the rear of the pan (this was with one finger). It seems that the bolts are loose; could that be the cause of the leak? Do you guys think I would be ok just tightening the bolts?
Now I gotta go figure out how to work the torque wrench in inch pd. FSM says 125 in, but I only have foot on mine?! Wth do I do..?
Steve, I think it may have been easy for you because you have that tubular k-member, but I believe with a stock k-member, the k has to be removed to change the oil pan gasket.
Your right, Don't know what I was thinking , I forget sometimes. The tub. K does make it easy access for everything. But I think a mechanic that did mine one time loosened the motor mounts and jack up the engine some to get the oil pan off. I forget how much he jacked the engine up but he was able to change the oil pan and gasket.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
Yeah thats it.. I just figured it out.. Im a dumbass :twak:
I dont think it goes that low :(
Do you guys still think they are too loose or is it the gasket?
lmao, if I remember 10 pounds is more or less hand tightened. Stock stamped oil pans aren't the thickest or strongest so hand tightening should be sufficient. Anything more and you'll probably bend or warp the pan.
Let's flip a coin. Heads I get tail, Tails I get head.
I noticed that the oil is the wettest at the rear of the pan. I cleaned it off the best I could and niticed it was slightly wet again. I could see the gasket flex and the reflection of the oil move when I pressed the rear of the pan (this was with one finger). It seems that the bolts are loose; could that be the cause of the leak? Do you guys think I would be ok just tightening the bolts?
Now I gotta go figure out how to work the torque wrench in inch pd. FSM says 125 in, but I only have foot on mine?! Wth do I do..?
The pan should have GM black sealant on it also , I like they way Meatyshells did mine just like a mechanic ,all the way around the pan gasket making sure to go by the bolt holes so when it gets snugged down and let it sit for 24 hours theres not going to be any leaks. from the oil pan gasket.
08' L76 6.0L 4X4 Chevy EXT.Cab LTZ Vortec MAX with Snug top cover, Dynomax exhaust,Hptuners& K&N intake
96' Camaro M5 to A4 conversion, alot of mods . GT35R Turbo full suspension. Built engine
I locked them down to about 11~12 ft lbs... Some might be tighter or looser than others since I couldnt get my torque wrench in there (I went by feel).
I cant move the pan at all anymore and before I dumped the oil no more was coming out.
I would rather undo the Motor mounts then have to worry about stripping a rusted y-pipe bolt especially if it is a stock manifold car.. Thats just me.. If it was a perfect would and everything goes right when you work on your car ( which it never does ) then I would say undo the y-pipe but From breaking or stripping y-pipe bolts in the past when I tried to remove them I found other ways that are less frustrating to do things.
That's what PB Blaster, WD-40, or whatever kind of rust penetrant you choose is for. Besides, even if you loosened the motor mounts, it won't tilt down as far as it would if you removed the y-pipe...
But what do I know... I've only done this 20 or 30 times.
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
-<i>Travis</i><br /><b>99 Trans Am, Pewter, A4</b> Forged, stalled, and cammed<br /><b>85 Buick Regal WH1 T-Type</b> It\'d be cool if it ran...<br /><b>94 Camaro 3.4, Teal, M5</b> The daily beater
I locked them down to about 11~12 ft lbs... Some might be tighter or looser than others since I couldnt get my torque wrench in there (I went by feel).
I cant move the pan at all anymore and before I dumped the oil no more was coming out.
Do you guys think Ill be OK?
no, get a new gasket
i had the SAME exact problem you did, and i tightened the bolts down slightly, my car leaks so much oil now, about a quart every 1,000 miles, it just dumps oil onto my exhaust and i smell burning oil all of the time
i know it is a PITA, but replace the gasket while it is easy for you to do, not to mention usually tightening the bolts with a leak will cause more of a leak.
the bolts are suppose to be lose, over tightening them just a tad will warp the thin pan.
when i do them, i put them hand tight with a socket, and then put the ratchet on and tighten them just a small amount more
Hi, everyone. We bought a 97 base model convertible Camaro and someone broke the motor ... Lights were blinking on the dash and that someone ignored the...
Still trying to find oil leak on my Camaro, it’s a tough one. I think it is the oil pressure sender myself. Leaking when raving and going into boost....
4 days ago
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