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  • #16
    Re: Clutch pressure issues.

    Well it got up to about 35* today so I was able to get some work done. Got the car all jacked up and removed the driveshaft and torque arm. Also removed the tq arm mount to change the busing and found a big weighted hanger that wasn't being used anymore for anything other than the o2 sensor wire so that is likely going in the garbage (thing weighs like 5 lbs). Took off the panhard (bushing change) though I broke a bolt so I need to find a new one. It is wider on one side than the other so i don't think I can just use a regular one. Anyone know where to find one? Also my work light burnt out and the sun had just set so I called it a day after hitting up some bolts for tomorrow with pb blaster. Looking at similar temps tomorrow and I will hopefully start before 2pm and hopefully get the tranny out. Lookikng for a step by step, I had found a good one here somewhere but didn't bookmark it. Grrr. - Finally found it - http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=92218
    Last edited by MegaHertz; 01-06-2013, 04:30 AM.
    96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

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    • #17
      Re: Clutch pressure issues.

      I headed off to harbor freight to see if they had a trans jack in store. They didn't and though I was tempted by an inexpensive floor jack I decided I would rather order a trans jack and have the right jack. I considered using my floor jack but I want it available in case I need to use it to tilt the engine for reinstallation. So I picked up a 1/2" extension set and some swivels, a new bulb for the halogen light, a wire and some cutoff wheels for the grinder.

      Once i got home and had some lunch I headed back out into the driveway. Another beautiful sunny day in the mid 30's. First i looked everything over and tried to find the trans bolts. Noticed I seem to be missing one. I also realized I do not have the car up high enough to drop the trans and slide it out. I'm thinking I should have picked up some taller jacks when I was at harbor freight. Hit everything up with pb blaster and then went and took off the lca's as I have new bushings that have been waiting to go into those. All I need to do is find some sway bar bushings and I'll have all fresh rubber in the rear (minus tires, which I will be doing once this clutch thing is done)

      Then I started loosening the trans cross member and mount bolts. Got them all cracked a turn or so to make things easier when I go to actually remove the transmission. Then hit the 4 13mm lower trans mounting bolts. Then I started on the bolts that mate the bellhousing to the engine. Boy did those extensions come in handy. One of the writeups I had read on here said you need a good 2 ft of extensions and they were right. Can't quite get to the top 2 bolts but the writeups also said you need to remove the crossmember and tilt the trans down to get at them. Everything seems to be moving along. Will be getting parts in this week hopefully and start getting the new stuff in next weekend.

      Edit - I identified the clutch pressure line but am not sure how it releases? Seems I need to disconect that and all other stuff attached to the tranny before I actually drop it. Anyone have any tips for getting that line off? Also need to do the shifter still as well.
      Last edited by MegaHertz; 01-06-2013, 04:14 PM.
      96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

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      • #18
        Re: Clutch pressure issues.

        Originally posted by MegaHertz View Post
        Edit - I identified the clutch pressure line but am not sure how it releases? Seems I need to disconect that and all other stuff attached to the tranny before I actually drop it. Anyone have any tips for getting that line off? Also need to do the shifter still as well.
        There is a small pin you have to push out of that fitting if you want to disconnect that line. Im assuming you are replacing the master cylinder while your doing this. You should unbolt the master and drop it with the trans rather than screwing with that line. There is a U shaped bolt that holds the master to the firewall behind your clutch pedal. Take the two nuts off of it and remove the C clip that holds it to your clutch pedal.

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        • #19
          Re: Clutch pressure issues.

          I hadn't thought about dropping the whole hydraulic assembly together but that actually sounds better than messing with the line while under the car. Seems to be a tricky/expensive part to get a hold of. I hope mine isn't what is leaking. Once the whole thing is out should I be able to see a leak bubbling / oozing on the slave by pushing in the master piston? I'm thinking its near the slave as the line was dry and nothing coming out around the master piston. I wasn't going to do the master unless it was bad but seeing as I'm doing just about everything else clutch related maybe I should and then everything SHOULD be good for a while.

          Waiting for a couple dealer parts departments to get back to me about slave prices and flywheel / panhard bolts. GM Parts direct wanted like $150 with shipping for the slave and that seems a bit steep to me but everything I've read says I should get a GM slave (as it and it's throw out bearing last longer guess?). Still need to pick up taller jack stands. Have a low lift trans jack ordered. Still need to decide on a slave. If the trans jack gets here by the weekend I'm going to pull the trans and inspect the whole setup as best I can and try to figure out what is leaking. Also noticed what I thought was an oil pan leak may be the rear seal as the oily mess goes much further up than I had originally thought. Might be a good time to do that if I have the trans off. Still doing all the work myself between these parts and needing new tires I feel I'm coming close to what the car is worth (she's not very pretty anymore). Still I tell myself if I spend 1500 total on car care this year it's cheaper than buying a decent working car.

          Edit:

          Found GM P/N for flywheel bolts - 24505092

          Also found source for panhard bolts - http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...dware-Kit.html
          Last edited by MegaHertz; 01-08-2013, 02:44 PM.
          96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

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          • #20
            Re: Clutch pressure issues.

            So got a price from one dealer -
            thank for your inquiry. The slave cylinder is $201.53, the flywheel bolts come in a package of 10 $44.80, the track bar bolts come in a package of 5 $8.55, the nuts are 4.56 each. It would take about 4 days to order. I must have the parts paid in full before I order them thank you

            Comparitively a pair of panhard bolts from spohn are like $12, gmparts direct has flywheel bolts for just under $40 shipped and I get 10 of them. Seriously considering getting a napa slave as it's only $70 and though I haven't pulled the tranny yet I got most of the bolts loosened and It doesn't seem like that complicated of a job if for some reason I'm still in the country if it fails. Just need my trans jack to get here - apparantly it will be a week. I'll get the shifter disconected this weekend and disconnect the master to take that out.

            When I get everything out and new parts I want to bench bleed the hydraulic system as a whole. Still looking on a good procedure to do that. I figure being able to rotate the parts around to work the bubbles out will make it much easier and reliable to do rather than bleeding it installed.
            96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Clutch pressure issues.

              The bleeder valve on the slave cylinder works pretty well for bleeding. Dont forget about the inspection plate when you pull your trans. It will hang up on the starter if you dont unbolt it. If it were me I would just get the napa slave and master.

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              • #22
                Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                Ah, clutch changing. That was a fun experience for me. I bought the slave/master through rockauto, and reused the flywheel/clutch bolts. Took a while for the installation of the master cylinder, not much room down there.

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                • #23
                  Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                  Woot - trans jack came in early. At least i can get things taken apart today. Still waiting on some parts to come in.
                  96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                    Got the transmission crossmember off (trans mount was definitely gone but explains the bouncy shift stick - couldn't see the cracks in it till I got the crossmember off). Got the shifter disconnected. Got the master unbolted (that U bolt did not want to come out). Trans didn't sag as much as I had hoped and still can't get the socket quite over the top bolts to actually put some good torque on them. I'll give it another go tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day. Again my halogen light burned out (I'm thinking maybe it's overheating?)
                    96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                      The top bolts are a pita. I probably had 3 ft of extension and 2 swivels on them the last time I pulled a T5.

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                      • #26
                        Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                        Originally posted by enzia35 View Post
                        and reused the flywheel/clutch bolts.
                        NEVER do this!!!! the flywheel bolts are tiny weak bolts, they are TTY bolts, and they are stretched and even weaker when trying to reuse them.

                        I snapped two of them trying to reuse them while trying to torque them down, I was out a weeks time waiting for my local gm dealer to get me new bolts for the flywheel.

                        I was lucky because I have tools to get snapped bolts out of the crank, if you dont, plan on a trip to a parts store to buy a set of bolt extractors, or helicoils if you have to drill it out

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                        • #27
                          Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                          I've got flywheel bolts on order from gmpartsdirect - no need to worry there. Finally got the top bolts out, got my clutch line disconnected (still haven't gotten the master out - can't seem to remove it - piston gets in the way). I think I have 1 bolt left to remove and that is already loosened. Where is this inspection plate? I see what looks like a heat shield around the starter - is that what needs to get removed as to not have things hang up when I go to actually pull the trans?
                          96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                            Figured out the inspection plate - was not the starter heat shield but goes parallel to the face of the transmission along the bottom. Just unbolted the 10mm bolts (only had 3 of the 5 in there anyway). Seems like the plate will come off when the clutch/pressure plate comes off. Transmission is out. Looks like the slave is leaking fluid which would be the cause of my problems. From the various missing bolts and not connected wiring harness clips I would say the tranny has been off before. Waiting for clutch and flywheel bolts to come in, need to run to napa for the slave. I need to stop by a shop to have some bushings pressed in the rear suspension stuff then everything can go back together. Hopefully next weekend if the weather continues to cooperate.

                            Edit: Anyone know a way to get the master out of the firewall without disconnecting the steering linkage? (Seems to be what is blocking it)
                            Last edited by MegaHertz; 01-13-2013, 04:26 PM.
                            96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                              So I tried (very briefly) to get the clutch bolts off. Just spun the engine. Whats the preferred way of stopping it from spinning? I considered jamming the flywheel somehow via the teeth but I am afraid that might break teeth if I have to really get on a bolt that is stuck.
                              96 White M5 Camaro. Manual everything. Magnaflow cat, dynomax dual outlet axle back. Swapped to a disc rear with 3.42s and a torsen differential, kyb gr2 rear shocks, moog rear endlinks.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Clutch pressure issues.

                                Originally posted by MegaHertz View Post
                                So I tried (very briefly) to get the clutch bolts off. Just spun the engine. Whats the preferred way of stopping it from spinning? I considered jamming the flywheel somehow via the teeth but I am afraid that might break teeth if I have to really get on a bolt that is stuck.
                                use a screwdriver to hold the teeth of the flywheel, you wont break a tooth, believe me.. the clutch bolts arent torqued down that much

                                if you are still afraid to do it you can always get a jack with a block of wood on it and put it on the balancer and make it snug, the engine shouldnt turn

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