Lets build a rear.

[mdenz3]

I'm lazy and I don't feel like working under the car for hours, so I started by bringing in one of my spare rears. Keep in mind there are two types of rear ends in 4th gens. Those with 3 channel ABS systems and those with 4 channel ABS system. The 3 channel rears have a hole drilled for the ABS sensor in the top of the housing, the 4 channels do not.

Yes, a new 6klbs fork truck is required to preform this install, as is a neighbor with a skid steer. (don't ask)

Step one; Remove the rear cover (10, 13mm bolts) and drain that stinky sticky fluid.

3.23 open diff? AINT NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!


Step two; Rotate the carrier so the pin retaining bolt is accessible. The remove it with an 8mm wrench.


Step three; Rotate the carrier downward and the pin will slide right out.


Step four; Push in on one of the axles to access the axles retaining "C" clip. remove it, and then you can pull the whole axle out of the rear. After the axles are removed I recommend replacing the carrier pin to keep the spider gears from walking out.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/rjdCj98.jpg[img]

Step five; Note the orientation of the notches on the two end caps. The remove them with a 15mm socket. Be sure to keep them where you will know which side they belong on. After they are removed gently pry the carrier out of the housing while supporting it with one hand so it doesn't fall. It will be fairly heavy and will require a decent bit of effort to pry it free.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/aA6b7oK.jpg[img]
Note the ABS ring on the carrier, we are going to reuse that. If you have a 4 channel car there wont be one there.

Step six; Using a 32mm axle nut socket and a pneumatic impact gun remove the pinion nut.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7xzha8Z.jpg[img]

Step seven; Gently tap on the end of the pinion shaft with a hammer while you hold the gear with your other hand. It shouldn't take much force for it to come free. Be ready for the yoke to come loose also.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/sJc0GKZ.jpg[img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/NlnxvdN.jpg[img]

Step eight; Pry out the old pinion seal and the front pinion bearing will come right out.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/lWgjZoa.jpg[img]

Step nine; Post pictures of the internets, drink a beer, take a shower then go to your girlfriends house for dinner.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3b8xBED.jpg[img]

[mdenz3]

Re: Lets build a rear.

Next up; If your rear is equipped with drum brakes you will need to remove them and relocate them to the nearest scrap metal receptacle.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7dKxpsx.jpg[img]

Now lets go over what we are going to put in this housing:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/BD4z9is.jpg[img]
An EAton TruTrac torsen differential, a 3.73 GM gear set, new Timken carrier bearings, and some other incidental ****.

First part of assembly; Place the smaller pinion bearing in the housing, and the install the pinion seal.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/nkIdpRT.jpg[img]

Ready the pinion gear, yoke, yoke nut and yoke nut washer. Also make sure to place the new crush sleeve on the pinion shaft.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/K5ZNjqQ.jpg[img]

Insert the pinion into the housing with one hand, and with the other place the yoke on the pinion shaft. While continuing to hold the pinion in place place on the washer and start to thread the new pinion nut on the shaft.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/57KoLOj.jpg[img]

Now for the hard part; You will need to some up with a way to hold the yolk still while you tighten the pinion nut. It will go fairly easy until it start to compress the crush sleeve. GO SLOW! As you slowly compress the crush sleeve you will need to check the pinion bearing preload. You want the break-away torque of the pinion shaft to be 14-19 in-lbs. IF you go to far you will have to get a new crush sleeve and start over.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/HpL1ACZ.jpg[img]


The difference in the gear ratios in the GM 10 bolt is the number of teeth on the pinion gear. The ring gears all have 41 teeth. The pinion gears have 15-10 teeth to give you 2.73, 2.92, 3.08, 3.23, 3.42, 3.73, or 4.10 ratios. The thickness of the ring gears changes to accommodate the changes in the pinion gear size. There are two series of gears 3.08 and lower and 3.23 and higher. The placement of the ring gear flange on the carrier changes between the two series.
Pictured here is a 3.73, 3.42, and a 3.23 ring gear in that order:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/yLN13OE.jpg[img]

Next remove the ring gear from the donor carrier:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/tPiiCcU.jpg[img]

Now remove the ABS ring from the carrier. I gently hit it with a soft face hammer to get it off.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/iFog6sV.jpg[img]

Install the ring gear on the carrier. Torque the new ring gear bolts in a star pattern to 65ft/lbs. These are left hand threaded bolts and you will need a torque wrench that can read in both directions. It is also recommended to use locktite on the threads.


I mark each bolt as I go to be sure I didn't miss any



Now we press on the carrier bearings: You will need a special installer tool to be sure you only apply force to the inner race and that can slide over the shaft on the carrier. A large socket works great. If you are a gorrilla you can do it on an arbor press, if you're a scrawny **** like me you can start them there and finish on a true press.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/MJRNZBk.jpg[img]

Bearings on, ready to install the ABS ring:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/nZA4E1d.jpg[img]

Place the ring in an over an heat it to 200-300 degrees F. Yes, you do have to use the F scale. **** the metric system.


Grab the ring with some welding gloves and slide it onto the carrier. Make sure to get it on in the correct direction. Also if you're smart you will install the ABS ring before the ring gear and the heads of the bolt make it far more difficult to install.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/XUmhOek.jpg[img]

Now you will need to install the carrier, carrier bearing races, and shims into the housing. The shims set both the preload and backlash. You will likely need to drive the carrier shims in with a brass drift and a hammer. Your goal is 0.005" to 0.009" backlash. Again this must be done in inches.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/P6bG6RR.jpg[img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7nRrjhT.jpg[img]

Now we slather on some yellow grease on a few teeth and check the wear pattern.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/hKrvIU0.jpg[img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/FRg5diY.jpg[img]

Next up, drink a beer and post some progress on a forum.

[mdenz3]

Re: Lets build a rear.

After your beer break go and retrieve your spare set of 98+ rear baking plates. Then install them on the housing, being sure to get them on the correct side and with the proper orientation.


There are two types of axles for 4thgens. 93-97 and 98+. The 98+ axles are slightly longer and have a race for an ABS reluctor ring to be installed. The ring wont hurt anything if you leave it on a 3 channel car.
Two 98+ axles and one 93-97 axle pictured below.


Install the axle into the carrier far enough that you can see and access the c-clip grove.


Install the c-clip and pull the axle back until it stops.


Next install the axles separator in the carrier.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ODAAwg1.jpg[img]

Finally; Place the retainer and install the snap ring.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/3HmRcDK.jpg[img]

Now you will be interrupted by your redneck friend who needs a flat repaired. After you have fixed that, drink a beer, post some more **** on the forum, then take a shower and go to your girlfriend's house for a steak dinner.

[mdenz3]

Re: Lets build a rear.

Sorry about the pics, the admins here really need to get with the auto-resizing and set a reasonable pic limit.