aluminum drive shaft worth it ?

[Tom Rs]

fo it needs a new u joint ? nos that one is ursif u want. i am winning it at 24.50 with a max bid of 25. feel free to outbid me i found another one that ends tonight.

[FunkZ]

The caps and needle bearings are missing on the rear joint where it bolts to the pinion flange. You can't reuse your stock caps because they're injection molded which is why you need the propane torch... you have to heat them up until the plastic ring inside melts just to get them off. Aftermarket joints come with C-clips to hold it in place. It should only be a 20-40 minute job to change out that joint.

Just to swap the driveshaft, if you're not changing the U-joints, there's nothing special required. It's a simple bolt-on affair.

[Tom Rs]

well guys i won one wonight and it looks to be a good deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ABCA%3AUS%3A11
thats the one i won. lemme know what you guys think.

[dmw319]

thats exactly what i got, but you got yours 80 dollars cheaper!!! good find!!

[shenanigans]

dang sweet deal $40 cheaper then mine...

[Matt G]

.2 off your 1/4 mile.. nice i am going to have to buy one, any ls1/lt1/trans am will fit into my 98 firebird correct?

are both of these aluminum?

http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/94/2c/bd_1.JPG

http://i5.ebayimg.com/01/i/05/5a/da/28_1.JPG

how do you tell the difference between aluminum/steel?


what what length driveshaft would i need?

49 5/8, 41 3/4, 49 7/8

here are the weight specs on drive shafts...

(9.6 for carbon fiber, 12 aluminum and 17lbs for steel)

and a pic of a CF one...(only 779.99 and it can be yours :eek: )
http://tbyrne.com/ls1/carbonshsft.jpg

[ November 07, 2005, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: Matt G ]