Hey i do have to get a new converter or stall, what do i need and what would be the best for my money. I have no knowledge of tranny's. All i know is i want better launches. I've heard i need 1800 stall someone help
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Stall vs torque
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get nothin less than a 3000 stall everything else will be a waste of money
you stock converter is between 1600 and 1800<b><a href=\"http://www.sick-sixx.com\" target=\"_blank\">SICK-SIXX MEMBER</a></b><br />NA 14.345 with a 1.863 60 foot<br />Nitrous 13.03@99.5 with a 1.63 60 foot<br /><br />2000 Camaro 3.8L A4: USE TO HAVE Comp Cam 210/220 .535/.547 113lsa 111 I/C, Port and Polished Heads, NX Wet Kit 100 Shot, CPRA made by CP, RK Sport Headers
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by predator5100:
I have no knowledge of tranny's. All i know is i want better launches. I've heard i need 1800 stall someone help<hr></blockquote>
The simple explanation of stall is this. It's kind of like a clutch in a manual transmission car. When you're idling, the torque converter is turning, but your tires are not. The fluid inside the torque converter is swishing around, but hardly any power is being transferred from the engine to the transmission. When the rpms start rising, that fluid starts trying to move everything. The stall point is a measure of when the torque converter has to let the transmission start turning, or is not going to let the engine turn any faster, because the "give" in the fluid is all used up.
So basically it lets you get the rpms up, before you launch. The higher the stall, the higher you can rev the engine at the moment just before you start moving.
If the stall point is too high, you have to hit higher rpms just to get moving, and the converter is not very efficient at lower rpms (cruising), with the fluid still "giving". A lock-up converter eliminates most of that problem.
Also if the stall point is really high, and you floor it, it's like popping the clutch on a manual, and if the tires/suspension aren't on the same performance level, then you'll sit and spin... Something to factor in, when deciding what stall point to get.
The common recommendation on here, to go high, I think is so you don't have to hassle with taking the transmission out twice, if you didn't go high enough the first time. Too small of a step, and you won't notice much of a difference.
Too big, and you can always go a little easier on the throttle roll-on to keep from breaking the tires loose, and the lock-up feature will still get you good mileage. So if you go a little on the high side, you can adjust for it. But if you go on the low side, there's not much you can do besides change converters a second time.\'98 A4 Camaro v6->v8 conversion, and STS kit next<br />v6: 13.6 Powerdyne, 13.2 150 shot, 13.8 120 shot, 14.3 85 shot, 15.7 stock<br />v8(na): 12.18@113, 392rwhp<br />Moderator on <a href=\"http://www.mtfba.org\" target=\"_blank\">www.mtfba.org</a> and <a href=\"http://www.frrax.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.frrax.com</a> (Road Race & Autocross)<br /><a href=\"http://community.webshots.com/user/johnduncan10\" target=\"_blank\">Car pics</a>, <a href=\"http://www.trscca.com\" target=\"_blank\">TN Region SCCA</a>
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by bubba:
How does the lock up work? Does it do it by itself or do we have to do something to it? Also does any one have some good recommondations for a high stall converter and can you give me some prices?<hr></blockquote>
Don't worry about the lock-up. It's nothing you can adjust. Don't get a lock up switch either. They don't do anything.
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