is my tranny suposes to do this

[Die Ford V8]

when I put my car into OD it shifts and works perfect, but if i put it into D and romp on it from first to second and let off it will stay in second for a sec and then hit drive, it wont go right into drive like it will when the shifter is in OD. is this natural???


also when I romp on it alot and am just beating on my car it will start to sound like I have a huge fan running or something like that. is this natural.

[ April 17, 2004, 05:08 AM: Message edited by: Die Ford V8 ]

[Die Ford V8]

anyone? please

[RallyRed 98]

i don't think anybody is quite sure what you're asking.

BUT, if i understand you (and i think i do), the "D" selection uses a second-gear start for really slick situations. this might be what you're experiencing.

[Die Ford V8]

it sounds almost like for a second someone is sticking a baseball card on the teeth of my flywheel and it kind of makes a little buzzing noise before it shifts. it only does it when it gets warm though(romping on it)

also, would a little higher stall torque converter effect my daily driving, like will it fry anything at cruising speeds when the engine is at 2000 rpms and the stall of the new vert is 2500?

[Die Ford V8]

also when I drive really fast in reverse I can smell tranny fluid faintly for a second. not a clue why, any ideas

[SpeedKills]

also, would a little higher stall torque converter effect my daily driving, like will it fry anything at cruising speeds when the engine is at 2000 rpms and the stall of the new vert is 2500?

Simply, no, more in depth, read below.

From http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/tech/torque.html

Lockup converters contain another part: a torque converter clutch. When the clutch engages, it allows the converter to lock the engine to the transmission input shaft, providing a direct 1:1 communication from the motor to the transmission.

However, when the engine spins more slowly, it creates more slippage within the torque converter, and more slippage creates more heat. Heat within the torque converter reduces fuel economy and can harm both the torque converter and the transmission. The solution is to allow the converter to lock up at a 1:1 ratio. Lockup eliminates the slippage, which reduces heat and improves fuel economy.

when I put my car into OD it shifts and works perfect, but if i put it into D and romp on it from first to second and let off it will stay in second for a sec and then hit drive, it wont go right into drive like it will when the shifter is in OD. is this natural???

The 4L60E shift patterns are controlled by the PCM, under certain conditions, it will change shift valving, shift points, convertor lock etc.
This is based on throttle position, RPM, trans temp, engine temp, gear selector position amongst other things. From what i gather this is a normal occurence (as long as it's just a very brief delay).

Your sig says you have a "shift kit" a few 4l60E "shift kits" and trans mods take the line pressure out of the acceptable range and can cause strange tranny issues based said line pressure. What kind do you have?

The buzzing noise could be a leaking vent tube, a trans cooler would help out a lot with this (the hot tranny fluid expands and can force some fluid out of the vent).

Take the "shift kit" (if it's the electronic type) out and clear the PCM and drive it around and see if that changes it.

There's a few possibilities for you.

[Die Ford V8]

the shift kit was put in because one of the valves was having problems with letting to much fluid by or something like that... the kit that was put in was a bag of springs and stuff. I definitely isnt electronic.

is it bad to drive in reverse fast, or ?

and yes the it only stays in second briefly, then hits drive.

another ??, so I could get a 2500 stall and still cruise right?.. like the nothing will be slipping or heating up because it wont be fully engaged, or will it?? will a 2500 stall hurt my mileage??

sorry for so many questions, thanks though

[Timbo1969]

Get a tranny cooler and a converter and you will be fine.. ;)

[Die Ford V8]

should i buy used, (have limited amounts of money) or go new.

will 2500 stall be good enough for street and occasional track or should I go 3000 or what do you think. I will only be at the track a few times a year, but I do think my stock converter is lame

btw, do you think I could get into the 14s with a 2500 vert and 3.42s???

[CamaroYoungDude]

i am interested in this 2 this summer
that is getting 3.42's and a converter with a cooler
Doing my intake and exhaust first

[Die Ford V8]

I've got intake and and part of exhaust and will probably get headers in a little while.
---------------------------------------

should i buy used, (have limited amounts of money) or go new.

will 2500 stall be good enough for street and occasional track or should I go 3000 or what do you think. I will only be at the track a few times a year, but I do think my stock converter is lame

btw, do you think I could get into the 14s with a 2500 vert and 3.42s???

--------------------

anyone

[Die Ford V8]

still waiting, not impatiently just really really curious, on knowing how a 3000 vert will effect my daily driving. like how will it shift and stuff???

how will it take off if I am driving regularly???

can you get a higher stall converter that still has lockup????

[SpeedKills]

Maybe this will help.

When you launch the car hard from a stop the engine rpm will jump to a certain RPM, that is called "flash stall". Whenever you drive below that RPM rang you are driving "in the stall". That is the range that has the highest amount of convertor slip. Convertor slip causes more heat buildup, this is your biggest enemy. A trans cooler is a good mod to go with when/before you do this just for peace of mind.

That being said, converters from different manufacturers can vary widely in part throttle driving. You can have a brand A torque converter with a flash stall of 3000 RPM and a converter from company B that has the same flash stall speed that will act differently in part throttle driving. This is due to different stall torque ratios. The STR will affect the rate/extent of part throttle torque converter slip. Do a web search and read up on torque converter tech and it should all make more sense.

There are plenty of LS1 and LT1 guys i know that have 2800-3400 RPM converters in their cars and are still quite streetable (again a byproduct of stall torque ratio), their cars still roll at idle and only have a few hundred RPM more slip, but when they jump on it it makes a world of difference.

I personally would go with a 3000 RPM converter, but i tend to go a little more on the hardcore side of things.

And you can get a higher stall converter that retains converter lockup which negates the higher stall as soon as the TC locks. You shouldn't consider any converter that doesn't (as it's either a cheap POS or a race only unit in most cases).

Just make sure you go with a quality converter from a good Manufacturer. Yank and Vigilante make converters that offer the stall speed you want and have a good STR so you can maintain your street driveability. If you email/call any of them they're are usually more that happy to help you out with selecting the right converter.

I highly rccomend against a used converter, you would have to have it flushed and dyno tested and verifyl it's exactly the one that you need.

As for track times, a 2800-3000 RPM stall should pick up anywhere from .3-.5 seconds on your ET the gears another .1 maybe .2.

Hopefully that helps

[Die Ford V8]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SpeedKills:
[QB] Maybe this will help.

That is the range that has the highest amount of convertor slip. Convertor slip causes more heat buildup, this is your biggest enemy. A trans cooler is a good mod to go with when/before you do this just for peace of mind.

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when you said "slip" and that causes more heat build up. this slip doesnt wear anything down right, just heats up fluid????

[Die Ford V8]

http://www.lmperformance.com/2307/14.html

is this a good deal and will it do what I need??
also are they easy to install??