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  • #16
    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by nosv6:
    if it is popping out of gears then it is definatley your syncro's, pretty hard to do yourself and should cost around 800 dollars or more to fix.<hr></blockquote>

    There is no definitely to it. There's more to a manual tranny than that. If that clutch fork is bent even a little, and your syncros are in perfect shape, it'll do the same thing sometimes.
    <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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    • #17
      Its...necessarily..popping..out..of..gears..I..had ..that..problem..before..the..rebuild.

      It..might..jsut..be..clutch..related.

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      • #18
        Your clutch's pressure plate and disk don't touch or come near your tranny's gears....In a freak case, a poorly alligned clutch, or the worse throw out bearing EVER just MIGHT kick it out of gear, but I doubt that.
        <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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        • #19
          It doesn't really pop it out of gear though, did that along time ago,but not since rebuild, it won't let me get it physically all the way inot the gear 1st, 3rd,(haven't tried 5th)

          and the shifter feels REAl stiff and sloppy in neutral, feels like its getting snaged, jsut when I wiggle it. 2nd, 4th and reverse are a little rough to get into they do not grind, just takes some armwork to get it in the gear.

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          • #20
            sounds like the fork over the synchros.. I really don't think this is clutch related from what info you have given man.. if I were you I'd do some searching around junk yards, you might be able to find a t-5 for a decent price.. either that or quit driving standards...
            -Brad
            98 Firebird - gone from mod mode to keep it running and useable mode.
            2000 V-Star Custom 1100
            If all else fails use a bigger hammer!
            :rock:

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            • #21
              1st worked in sae with 3rd for about 2m miles


              then strted workind like asss


              9it would worlk norml then like asss


              ****e I honm the car blow up
              lt1 closer


              alcohop!

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              • #22
                Man ME, I've been readin' about your clutch problems here and CZ28.com and I cannot comprehend how you manage to go through a rebuilt tranny and 4 clutches on from what I can tell is a stock Camaro V6. ???

                I run mine hard too, to the limits. I even get tread to spin at 40 MPH in second gear! But here I sit just now starting to feel significant wear on the clutch (gears are fine) and I'm around 125,000 miles on it. The stock OEM clutch.
                Why keep replacing with OEM parts? A SPEC 1 or 2 clutch would be better than stock, and you could even install a SPEC stage 3 clutch and that'd be the end of it. Behind a V6 a Stage 3 double plate should last 100,000 raced miles!

                I wonder if when you shift you are letting the clutch out too early in an attempt to expediate shifting?
                Don't mean to dog you, just that in trying to help you out and figure what the deal is, I have a hard time pinpointing the problem because first you say it feels like gears, or synchro's. Then its the clutch. PM if you have some time and be as explicit as you can and I'll do my best.
                I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt you are a good driver (until proved other wise, tee hee hee :D )

                "can't find it, grind it!"
                <b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"

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                • #23
                  <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MustangEater8251:
                  It doesn't really pop it out of gear though, did that along time ago,but not since rebuild, it won't let me get it physically all the way inot the gear 1st, 3rd,(haven't tried 5th)

                  and the shifter feels REAl stiff and sloppy in neutral, feels like its getting snaged, jsut when I wiggle it. 2nd, 4th and reverse are a little rough to get into they do not grind, just takes some armwork to get it in the gear.
                  <hr></blockquote>

                  From that post it sounds more and more like your clutch fork...this is what actually works with the syncros, like an arm if you will, and moves around and actually puts the tranny in a certain gear.
                  <a href=\"http://www.fullthrottlev6.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.fullthrottlev6.com</a> THE SOURCE!

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                  • #24
                    whoa drunk post up there...

                    I am thinking its the clutch fork... I can sometimes it drives normal, then it goes to hell... If it was just ****ty, then I woudl assume the synchros, which I find wierd...

                    I am a good driver [img]smile.gif[/img] jsut when I dog on it, I DOG on it... At the track, better times come first before care of the car [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    this is the 4th clutch on this car...
                    I killed the master cylinder, shattered the clutch, and ****ed up the flyweel on my dad's 2000 5-speed Camaro, and the car had less then 7k on it [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    I thought about going with a Centerforce dual friction at time of rebuild, but didn't have the cash, and sure as feck not doing it now. I am still looking at lt1s, today I jsut put my interior and suspension back to normal, even put my spare and jack in right(first time in months). Even scarier I took out my CAI and threw in my stock intake... WOW, my ghettoe intake is lightyears better then stock setup, even with a brand spanking new filter.

                    Gonna see if it will be covered by warranty soon [img]smile.gif[/img]

                    [ March 15, 2003: Message edited by: MustangEater8251 ]</p>

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                    • #25
                      Intake, and lack of spare will have nothing to do with your warranty not being covered.

                      just start shouting about 'The Magnuson Warranty Act' If you didn't crack open the motor, or have a bolt-on directly cause the said damage, they have have to honor their warranty.
                      <b>15.41</b> @ 89.80 & 15.45 @ <b>91.64</b>, 2.21 60ft, 3,440 raceweight, using <b>OEM</b> Equipment. <br />\'98 L67/M49 w/ 134,000 miles before spun bearing. \"<i>It\'s all stock, Baby</i>!\"

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